Ed260Z

I'm new to welding, and my understanding that Al is a lot harder to weld on. Not to mention my second point is that I want to keep the stock gauge.

Is there a shot or a pill I can for this?

I think that the SR20 will slip before the the 26's, so less torque & shock is transmitted trough the drive line.

I guess the real questions is when do you stop. When I was figuring out this swap I thought the Walbro 255, and some new lines would be all I needed. And then the monster jumped out and said "for a few more dollars you can the Aeromotive A1000, and it will be the last pump you need to get!" So I said great idea, I hate wasting money on something that I'll be replacing soon any way. So of course I need to get some High flow filters to protect my investment, and I midas well get a FPR while I'm at it. And I guess change all the lines and fittings. Man that stuff adds up fast. LOL

It seems like a lot of work to go through for not much more gain in performance. But I guess it depends what your going to use the car for. ITB's are great for auto-cross type events, and the TB is great for Drag. Either way there is not much of a difference, until you start making Mega HP.

I've looked, and it seems that it's only a custom cell. As in $$$$$$$$$$. If I could find a cell with an off center filler I could use a 45*neck, and a remote filler from Summit. I'm already going to be spend $1K on the fuel system, so whats another $300 or so.

I want to keep the stock filler location. And from what I've seen most if not all of the cells fill in the middle of the tank. I would need to drop the cell pretty low to have enough clearance to run a filler neck. A fuel cell would be the simplest way to get it done, the way I want. Do you know of a way to run the filler from the stock location? The only examples I've seen run the tube through the cargo area, which I don't want. Another thing is that I also want to keep the stock gauges, and the GM sending units won't work with the Datsun fuel gauge.

Alright 45 days it is. You know you didn't have to twist my arm. LOL. The R34 comes with a pull type clutch, Is it as simple putting in a push clutch, or is there more to it?

What about the other question? And why do you think the R34 is the way to go. What makes it better than the R33?

I think McKinney charges around $350 for the wire service.

The sensor head on mine was only about 3-4mm. Those look way to deep to fit. You could cut off the stock mounting tabs and weld them back further down in the tunnel.

Here is my new dilema. I can get an R33 in a few days, or get an R34 in 45 days. What to do? Is the R34 worth the wait, and why? Now for a stupid question; Are the RB26 & RB25 flywheel the same size?

Why not weld in new mounting tabs a bit further back in the tunnel. I think that will make a much better, and simpler install.

If your smelling gas it's because you need to replace those 30yr old + lines. If your getting rid of the Evap controll system you can loose it. But as of yet I haven't heard a good reason to get rid of the Evap Sys.

People plug some of the vent lines, but not all. If you plug them all you will not be able fill the tank all the way, and you will have fuel starvation as the tank empties.

To the best of my knowledge, the tank doesn't ever need to be under pressure.

I've got half a sensor I could take a pic of.

Where do I get an HKS Rail? And how much?

I saw this used JUN Fuel rail, but I can't find much info on it. The JUN site doesn't even show it available anymore. It looks like a nice piece, but is it worth $200?

Hey no motor yet. It needs to thaw out around here first. LOL Working in 30 degree weather is not fun. Right now I'm gathering all the parts and information I need. I want to know what I'm doing before I start. I won't have time to mess around scratching my head' date=' once I start. The engine will be last (Probably at the end on March) I want the engine in & running within 2 weeks of starting the swap. I think I have all of the mechanics of the swap worked out in my head. The Elec is still a bit sketchy. But I'm working through it. The plan will be to open up the stock S30 harness, splice in the RB, and re-wrap it. Now just got to figure what wire to splice where. Thanks for the info