Ed260Z

Do you know what adabter I would need?

Another idea is; did you shorten the bump stops before you installed them. I made that mistake on a car once before, and when you hit a bump it would bottom out very quickly. It's amazing what that extra 1/2" of travel can do for you.

This "kit" does not include the lines. I would source my own components, but I'm have a hard time figuring out which adapter to get. Do you know which adapter I should be getting?

I've been reading a few books, and gone through more threads than I can remember on this subject. This should probably be on the exhaust forum, but I'm more interested specifically on the RB DETT motors, obviously. It seems, based on the books I've read the the best size would be 3.5", but that's going to be a tight fit under the car. And if you use 2 pipes, 2.75" pipes would work. The questions are; Is it a good Idea to run 2 separate pipes for each turbo? Will this cause any kind of power loss, like on a N/A car? My Idea is to run 2 pipes to a muffler located under the drive shaft, with 2 pipes exiting the muffler into a "twin" exhaust. I got this Idea from the early 70's Z rally car set-up. I like this idea for 4 reasons; 1) The 2 pipes combined have a greater flow capacity 1 large one. 2) The exhaust gasses velocity should be quicker through the smaller pipes. 3) The pipes are more easily tucked under the car 4) I don't need to get a rice muffler to reduce the back pressure. If anyone has ever done this, or know a reason why this won't work please chime in.

Will this work on the RB26? It's a Z32 TT Oil Cooler kit from Stillen.

I looks like I might be getting an R34 block which means that it probably won't have a plug for the rear dip stick. Is this something that I can do with a hand drill, or should I take it to a Machine shop?

I think I'm going to cream in my pants a just found an R34 for only a few hundred more. I just hope I can still get my hands on it in a few weeks when I'm ready for it. I'm glad that I've been taking my time with this swap. When I first started doing my research I could only find a few R32's, and they where big bucks for a 10-12 year old engine. And the 1 or 2 times I saw an R33 or R34 the price was just stupid high. I guess since the demand for these engines is getting greater so is the supply. I've only been concentrating on getting info on the R32 & 33. Can anyone tell me what improvements they made to the R34 engine?

Here is a thread that I started awhile back on this type of swap. There are a few links to other threads in there also. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106726 Good luck, and if you decide to go through with it keep us updated. It is also possible just to swap in the diff.

I went onto the Ex Vi Termini site, and if you go through all of the pics you can piece together what they did. It looks like they used an over flow canister with 3 inlets on it, and a 1-1.5" outlet. I'm assuming that you would plum this outlet to the outlet on the block, so that it will circulate with the rest of the coolant. From J. Soileau RB26zcar's pics it looks like you need to go through the ITB's, but I hope someone can clarify this.

I think that the early 240Z's only had 40amp generators so that could be why. But that's not my gauge. I snaked the shot off Ebay. I already converted to a Volt/Fuel combo from a 280Z. The Water Temp/Oil Pressure should be the closest gauge to the tach on the car, which is also a stock gauge. Ideally I would have a full assortment of gauges, but I'm going for the Stealth look. So for now just 2 more gauges to replace the clock.

Did you fab up the pick up tube for this also?

Any chance of someone spelling this out for us step by step, and posting a How-To on this? This sounds like a really good mod for the engine.

Wish I knew more about turbos, so that I could make a request. Is this the same concept as the N1 turbos? How big of a cartridge will fit in the stock housing?

OK now I have a dilemma. I've been leaning to a R32 clip since the R33 engines alone where over $1000 more that the 32 clip. But I just found a R33 engine only for $3200 shipped. Now what do you guys suggest get the R32 clip for around $4500 shipped or the R33 engine for $3200? I know I could regain some of the cost of the clip by selling off some of the unused parts. Not to mention it's nice to have a reference you can look at. Is the R33 worth it? Remember I'm planning end build of 600Hp to the wheels.

You may be able to use RB25 cams, but the 26 cams won't work with that head. But these cams are still designed for a much higher displacement engine. Your customer would be better off getting cams from a company like Tommi, or Greedy that are designed for that engine.

Something like that. (They look like Westach 2" gauges.) I want them to look more like the original gauges in the car. Just change the AMP to Boost (Vac-0-20) & FUEL to Temp, EGT or whatever.

I found a company that says they can make me a dual gauge that will look very close to my original Z gauges. I will be supplying them with my stock Amp/Fuel gauge to mess with, and you can assume it's not going to be cheap. The problem is what do I get function wise. The Boost level is a no brainier, but should the other be an EGT or Oil temp? Or some other gauge? I'm going for more of a stealth look in my Z, and I don't want anything to in the car to scream modified. Well except under the hood. LOL Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can give me.

http://www.nismoparts.com/ I'm pretty sure this where he gets a lot of parts from. I'm getting ready to place an order with them soon myself.

Well there is still a drain in the system, and after more checking it's something to do with the connections I made. I'm going to reconnect the #2&5 wires together and see if that stops it.

They also sell a "Twice Pipe" The winning Rally car from the 70's ran a dual exhaust set up with a muffler in the middle. The muffler had 2 inlets and 2 outlets, and the tips where centered in the rear of the car.

I've seen them from $1800 to $2400. My reason for considering the AEM unit is the same for going with the 26. A little bit more cost upfront, but a hell of a lot more bang for the money. I haven't seen another unit out there that will give you the range of adjustably that the AEM gives you. And the best part is no wires to mess with, just Plug N Play.

It looks like the Turbo is going to fit. I want to hear that thing running soon.

Good to hear that it's running.

I plan on using the AEM ECU in the future. For now I just want to get all the bugs worked out before I start to modify the engine. I may end up getting the AEM a little sooner than I planned, since I don't want to have to get the stock ECU re-flashed every time I do something. I found a front clip close to my house and took a look at it. The ECU is MIA, and all the wiring looks dry rotted. The connectors for the ECU look a bit rusted as well. I don't think I'm going to get that one, but it did make me drool with anticipation.