Ed260Z

If it ran fine with the return line in a catch can, then I would say that you have a vapor vent issue. It sounds like your tank is under pressure when your running. There are 4 vent lines on the tank, and if they're the original I'm sure they're shot. I've seen a few of the lines on Ebay, and MSA also has them.

I'm still new to turbo's and modifying the ECU, and sensors. I guess that would mean the addition of a MAP. For now I want to keep the engine basically stock, until I can do more research on the mods I want to make. I've always stuck with carb cars in the past because I was not the comfortable with my knowledge of modifying modern EFI system. Hopefully with a little bit of help from you guys.

From what little I now so far, you can't use 26 cams on a 25. The 26 has a completely diff head design. The only things that interchange would be the cam gears.

For the first question I can't see why it wouldn't fit right, since it's the same block. The only major diff I've heard of so far between the RB2632 & 33, is where the crank attach's to the oil pump. Although the fins on the water pump are a little smaller the the stock there are more of them. So I don't see why that would be true either. With all that said, I have no experience with the pump yet, and I do want one.

Looking at the wireing diagram it's 4. But that doesn't mean it's in the same order.

I'd go with a nice piece of sheet metal. Weld it in, and paint it up. I guarantee that you won't have any leaks!

Good job bring that Z back from certain death. At most I would have called it a parts car when I saw it. One quick question though. Why didn't you have your bro take a look at it for before you sent the money?

Thanks for clearing that up. The Z32 MAF will just plug into the R32's harness, right?

I've been looking at different coil over options the last few months, and they all seem to use a set screw to keep the lower perch from moving around. Does any one make a set up like this one? This set up looks a lot easier to set, and keep the perch located with out damageing the treads on the tube.

There has been a few posts on this subject in the past. With 2.5" coil overs the max size tire would be 285 in the stock wheel wells. I don't know what the off set would have to be, since every time I've asked I was told to search. But there is not much current info on the subject. Old news I guess, even if it's new to me.

My understanding is that the MAF on the RB is limited to only 1 bar, that it can read. I was told that the Z32 TT will read more, but if they are the same part #'s how could that be?

I've owned several Z's in the last 15 years, and the only nice one I got was from Cali. Which is the one I still own. The East Coast is very hard to find a good car. The South West is going to be the best area. Even when you do mange to find a nice rust free car you will still need to stiffen up the chassis, if you want to put any kind of power under the hood. And before you do that I would make sure that the Chassis is straight to begin with. 30+ years of driving will have twisted the chassis a bit. It may not be much of a flex, but why stiffen up the chassis if it's already twisted. My nice clean Cali car (With 0 rust, or visable signs of an acident) is in 3/8th of an inch on the rear pass side strut support, and the pass side of the car is 1/4 inch longer than the drivers side. I took these mesurements myself so they're probably not exactly right. I'll no more when it gets onto a frame machine.

Thanks Q. As always your info is priceless. Any Infinti's with the same part #'s. I can get those parts for 10% over cost.

I found a Front Clip from a local guy. (not an importer), but it's missing the AFMs. Will the AFMs from a Q45 plug right in, or should I get them from another US market car?

The pics need to ber hosted on the internet first. Then you can just cut and paste them in.

Is this completely home grown, or is there a co. that makes a kit for this mod?

I see it now. That'll teach me not to use my glasses. What type of tubing should I use to fab this up for my swap?

That is one long pick up! Would it be a good idea to put in some kind of support brace on the tube? Maybe a piece of flat stock welded to the tube, and then bolted on the engine useing one of the windage tray bolts.

The only other thing that I can think of is the Coil Packs & Plugs. Does it even try to crank over? Have you tried pulling out on of the packs to see if it's got spark? Is the timeing way off?

1-2" thick with an Al. core, and plastic ends? Where did you get your Grif from, and do you remember the part #? This is the only one I can find in Summit http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400030

How much wider, and taller, is the Skyline rad, compared to the Z's?

I like it! It may even be doable. I liked your other design to, but it would be very hard to accomplish, based on the current state of available parts.

Here is a shot of the HKS dump. Compared to the SS one Looks like an exact copy. Can the welds just be made stronger by putting a new bead on them?

Get a new Transistor from him while your there. I think you'll find the the transistor is faulty, based on your problems so far. When I can't figure out exactly what's wrong with a car I'll start swapping out parts until it works. I start with the most likely suspect and work my way down the line. The Transistors have a history of going bad, and it's one of the easiest components to swap out. If it stilldoesn't work you anly wasted a few minutes of your time. Let us know what it finally was.

They look like a copy of the HKS dumps that I also saw on Ebay. The Used HKS where $370 from Japan.