Ed260Z

This was a good read, and I want to know how the #'s turned out. So tell Jamie T, did the valve job give you what you wanted? And are you wiling to give up the specs of your valve job?

Here's another; How about the Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Switching Module?

Ok so lets see if I have this right now. These should be all of the Power & Ground wires; 1) Pins: 109,59,49 & 16 connect to the ECCS Relay. 2) Pin: 58, ECCS Relay & Dropping Resistor Connect to the Bat, for a 12V constant. 3) Pin 45 & the FP relay connect to the Ign On. 4) Pin: 50,60,107,108,116,20 & 10 connect to the RB's ground harness. 5) 12V constant goes to Ign Relay , and then connects to pin 16 (before ECCS Relay). The #2 "Harness" Gets connected to a 12V constant in the car (Through the fuse box.), and the #3 "Harness" gets connected to an Ign ON source in my Z.

If I'm not mistaken there was an earlier run of this car that was actualy a bit sleaker, and may be "cooler".

You can plug the lines, and it realy doesn't matter if you loop it or not. I would preffer to loop it so that all the coolant is in motion. Yes the coolant is already warm by the time it mixes with the "cool" water from the rad, but if your system is working properly it won't make a difference. In fact if the engine starts running warm, that means that you have a problem developing in your cooling system.

I would add some plasti and feeler gauges to that list. But $900 is not that bad to rebuild a short block. What they can do in 1 day will take you at least 5. The best you can hope for with out all the specialized gauges is a good rebuild. They should be able to blueprint the block for you, which will let the engine spin easier, and give you "free" power. If you want to do it right see if you can get someone to let you borrow the tools, and then take your time. There is an old addage that says "messure twice, and cut once". The same is true here, but change to messure 4 or 5 time, and torque it down once.

Don't know much about the car, other than it's a Jap spec car that I don't think ever made it to the US.

That link doesn't work.

I think the 21 circiut might be over kill on a S30 Z. Even with the 18 cir you'll have some cirt left over.

On my Z there appears to be bracing that goes all around the tunnel at the tranny mounting point. Should I also move that back? Did you use your Z's tranny mount or the RB's?

I believe they use thicker than stock metal, on all their parts.

OK, I have gone over the wiring Schematic a hundred times. If I have this right I only need to worry out the ground, 12V constant, and Ign On connections to the ECM from the stock wireing harness on my Z. On the 26 that would be pin# 45, 49, 50, 58, 59, & 60 Somebody please agree or disagree with me.

Thanks for the info. Did you make the ears, or get them from a kit?

Thanks

I can't say I'm a big fan of the Miata, but it's handles like a Go-Cart. If your building a track car I'd go with the Miata. But if you want an all around, well round car, the Z is my choice. The Z was modeled after 2 of the best Sports cars of the 60's, a Jag & Porche. For it's time the Z was a great handleing car. The Miata's technology is 20 yrs newer.

The rear of my car has alot of camber, since I lowered it. The front stayed about the same. The Tokico's have 8 turns vs the stock 11 turns so their will be a size diff uncompressed.

OK, so all I have to do is connect the ECM to a relay, and the to the pump. The ECM doesn't need to be wired into the FPCM. Any particular relay I should use? Or any 30-40 amp will do?

IMO, this is the best set up to use when installing a new tranny into a Z. I never got an answer on that post if any additional bracing was needed or used on the interior of the car.

Do I need the Fuel Pump Control Modulator? Or can I just wire a relay to the ECM, and not wire the 2 pins going to the modulator?

How could anyone do that. I could pick my Z out, with out thinking about it. I have yet to see one Z look like another. (Maybe when they where new) How are you thinking of cocking the turbo? And do you really think your going to get much performance gain by useing that manifold?

My original's where completely gone. You'll need to cut the stops by 1/3 and then just slip them over the strut shaft.