MusPuppis

Down the street from a buddy of mine was a guy not quite that big but in the same weight division who had a gixxer.. He'd throttle it and you could see folds of fat kinda billow out behind him.. In a really horrible way it was mesmerizing. Pooooor bike.

Yeah, lol, Mouse Poop.. haha. Yeah, it can be done for less if you have parts on hand, good deals or simply get real lucky/patient. Stock b6 on stock boost swapped in is good for a 14 second 1/4 mile if I'm not mistaken.. 140-ish hp and 2100pds or so (thats with driver includes, haha).

Davy, I made a little list with general prices in a thread a little bit ago. Basicly, if your careful and patient you could do it for 3300$ or so, assuming you have no parts on hand and everything must be purchased. Feel free to PM me for any other info.

I'd really like to see more pics of molded ZG flares, I'm giving real thought to them myself. I'd love to go with a widebody but for ease, cost and SOME sanity I may just mold some ZG's in, assuming of course I EVER to working on my car.

Hand her the ring and when she says yes, smile and hand her a pre-nup and a pen.. yuk yuk yuk. Sorry, Congrats man, sounds great!

Does it Ulises? Hm.. How does yours act? Our Festy, well, Bryan's Festy goes about 16-17psi in first and second, but in third where it has some time it climbs in excess of 20.. Man its a whole different WORLD up there, god it FLIES. It builds to 16 then holds for like a split second then jumps to 20 pretty quick.. I REALLY wish I could figure out what the hell is going on! By all accounts the damn thing shouldnt boost much over 9psi or so without a boost controller in place! Stock capri boost is 7psi and all we've done other than the ECU (that should have zero bearing on boost levels since nothing in that system is electronicly controlled..) is the FMIC, DP and larger piping to and from the turbo. I see it getting alot more air and everything, but i just dont see a change that should reult in THREE TIMES the stock boost.. Im wondering if the DP isnt maybe catching the WG valve or something and maybe keeping it from opening up all the way.. I dont know. Overboost is most likely what killed us. Well, over boost and 93 octane...... Damn, haha, wish you were closer, I'd love to take you up on that. It'll be a long while before I buy the Capri itself but I'd love to get a shell and start getting it prepped. In all honesty it doesnt take very long to prep, but you get the idea, lol. Get the wiring ready, I could pull Bryan's motor and use it for my mock-up, instead of the RR ecu I'd just go MSnS, but stick with the standard Capri ECU for intial start-up. Mine would be full interior less the rear seat. Slightly larger FMIC, same diameter piping unless I could find a larger TB and adapt it over, but otherwise I see no real reason for the tubing to exceed the size of the TB. Same clutch, lightnened flywheel, blah blah. Really just a more refined version of Bryan's. Now that I've done it once I can get it done alot faster and a whole lot easier than the first time around. Oh well, I'll have the money but I think I'm just gonna stick to my plan of buying an LTI Trans-Am or 1st Gen DSM, I need a car, not a project, lol.

Ya know, I have a little Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 running Flux and for something on a budget the little sucker works its arse off. I really enjoy it. I did all the fabrication on the Festy which consisted of 2 sets of 3 motor mounts (after the first set I got to looking and figured out a way to set it back about an inch further) along with a SLEW of backets and other odd mounts along with an adapater for the AFM to run a cone filter. Ive done exhuast welding, rust repair, frame repairs. For thing guage stuff its pretty nice. I know its not what your after, but just mentioning it for anyone else that reads this by way of being informative. The HF autodark hood is a really good unit by the way. Poeple bang it for some reason but I picked it up for like 53$ with the insurance and its spent a year in my collision repair class and my own garage under fairly heavy useage frm myself and other trusted friends and its still kicking around without a sign of trouble. For an AD hood on the cheap I think its a fine unit. good size lens to,

So for every dollar profit you make you get jacked for 40c? Thats.. I dunno.. Sick?

Nitrous? Cheap, simple, fast, lol.

Thanks for the break-down on how that junk works. I know it doesnt work as claimed, I was just using it as a sarcastic example. Wanna know something REALLY funny? LIKE REALLLLLLLY funny? I do mean funny by the way. Our school shares a common parking lot AND partial building with.. dun dun dun.. A SMALL AIR FIELD! Guess what they have? C'mon! Guess! 105 octane, pump, on hand, all we gotta do is ask real nice and pay out the butt-hole for a tank of the stuff, But yeah, less than, I dunno, 300 yards from where Ive been doing the final tune and trouble shooting work is a pump with 105 octane on hand. And he blows it up with 93. I SO just need to build my own Festiva.. Anyone have a Festy shell for sale? lol.

If we're talking 2010 can I toss in the ported, polished, MSnS'd and nitroused 2Fast2Festy v2.0? Hell, if we're talking 2010 maybe my Fairlady will be on the road (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH yeah... yeah.. thats gonna happen..). Engine? If god loves me an RB of some designation or another. If not, some form of boosted something-or-other. Maybe a TT SHO motor? har har, I love getting ahead of myself. The reality will likely be a poorly running, stuttering, almost blown, underboosted, under budgeted L28ET.. But my paint will be stunning!

I got a call from Bryan the other day stating that the Festiva had blown a headgasket. Ok, so its not 'dead' its just disabled, but I havent been able to really take a look at it to check for collateral damage. No telling if something else is toasted... Im a litle pissed. Ok, a lot of pissed. I've spent MONTHS building this little thing for him and he blows it up right out of the gate.. Ive been harping at him, yelling, telling, cussing, whining, bitching, the whole deal that it was NOT READY FOR FULL USE. I mean, we played with it, ran a couple races, those were 3/4 throttle, early shifts, never everything the car had.. Why? fuel pressure issues for one, and the fact it was boosting to 20+psi for a second. 20psi on a 16-17psi tune with a turbo whos safety limit was , in fact, 16-17psi. So, Bryan takes it to lexington for races, I know nothing of this. He tracks down a WRX that rolls around, the guy claims to have like 30 grand invested in the car, from paint, suspension to motor, its very fast, very nasty and is supposed to pull a high 11. Ive seen it EAT some pretty nice stuff, including the 11.90's Civic we lost to a weekend or so ago. So I beleive the guy.. Well, bryan arranges a race and promptly BEATS THE DAMN THING, from what Ive heard it want by very much, but he did beat him, sans slicks to. Yay right? I should be proud my little car did that right? Well, since it blew itself up at the end of the race alot of my pride turned to EXTREME anger when I heard about it.. Lets break down what he did wrong shall we? Tune is meant for 105 octane @ 16-17psi. Bryan put in half a tank of 93 w. a bottle of ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ NOS Octane Booster. Yeah, thats the same.. EVEN if the crap worked like it claims, which it doesnt, it adds UP TO 7 points or something.. Ok, thats 100 octane, still 5 shy cheif! Wastegate isnt working properly, I dont know why, havent been able to get Bryan to sit still long enough to pull the DP off and inspect the WG itself, the actuator is working.. but we're really overboosting. Anyway, 105 octane gets us safety at 17psi.. so, lets be nice and say 100 octane @ 20+ psi and a tune meant for 17.. YAY! That sounds SAFE! Gosh, I wonder why it popped? I guess we'll never know! Oh, and fuel pressure issues.. I dont know what the hell is wrong, but we cant get more than 35-40psi in the rail on the stock FPR and we've bought three new ones.. So we have a little check valve n the return line I can slide closed to build up more pressure and keep us around 65-80psi, which is what we need as far as I can tell.. It actually boosts and runs normally at those numbers anyway.. BAD for our pump and lines, so its a temp fix, designed to figure out the issue while I find and adapt a better FPR. Walboro 255 pushing the gas. Anyway, You can likely tell just why the car blew up. Its an 80-85% car. You can run it ALMOST to the limit, but not AT the limit, and Bryan did, KNOWING all the problems, all the issues and i THOUGHT knowing the dangers since I am the most paranoid person known to man and have been on his back about the borderline you walk with this sort of motor since the day we started PLANNING the damn car. So whats planned now? We found a copper head gasket, hes ordering that today along with a gasket kit for everything else we'll need for the HG replacement and while we have the head off and at a machine shop being inspected for damage he wants to get it ported out, which is nice, hooray, maybe he'll take his ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ time with this when I redo it for him and not blow it up before its ready to be driven around. I'm going to do my best to talk him into MSnS with larger injectors as well as a wideband, it'll put the Festy back on the project block for a few months, but I honestly think its the smartest route we can go. He's got a chance to taste the little son of a bitch and roll around in it, maybe that'll slake him enough to let me do this right. There is so much detail stuff that needs doing anyway, like I said, it was only 80-85% done! Wiring needs to be buttoned up, WG needs worked out, FP needs worked out, so so much left to do. BUGGER. I spent 8 months building it, I drove it 5 times for less than 2-3 miles per trip and they were all tuning and check runs.. Bitter? NOT I.

Yup, it overboosted before the MBC, when I had it installed and still does it once I removed it. The downpipe attachs directly to the turbo, I'll pull it off and check for clearance issues today, thing is the actuator arm is able to move freely and the WG linkage the arm attachs to on the outside of the housing moves freely as well, the DP wasnt allowing the WG to open due to an obstruction wouldnt that lock the linkage up? Yup, we're taking the signal from a nipple right next to the boost controller and we've actually tried taking the signal from the exact nipple the boost controller is hooked on to, no success. I think I'm also gonna try and test the full range of the WG linkage.. Maybe the actuator is working but not extending fully? Im starting to get confused here, it acts so oddly.. We boost to 15 a little on the slow side then from 15 to 20 its FAST, and at 20 we let off, but I'm pretty sure it'll just keep climbing until something breaks. More diagnosis and I'll report back.

I'm a collision repair student myself. Sata makes a good gun, but poke around for an Iwata LPH400LV. They pop up on ebay, used for a reasonable price fairly often, I paid 335$ or so for mine, very very lightly used and it is simply a dream. We have a Sata 3000 with the digital read at school and I think the Iwata is superior on every way. Its an LVLP also, not HVLP which means it runs at next to no pressure and requires less over-all CFM (mine is rated at like 9CFM) so using smaller compressors wont result in poor gun performance. Now, you could also look into the DeVilbiss GTI Millinium, with some research (spraygundepo.com) you can find it for sub 300$ and it comes with a 1.7, 1.4 and 1.3 tip, very good all-around gun, outputs alot of material, similar to the sata and has a BIG ass pattern when its wide open, designed around production and speed, its a solid gun for the money and top class. if you intend to do work at home or on the side and wont be in a well outfitted shop, keep the gun CFM requirement in mind, the GTI and Sata are HOGS. They take a sturdy compressor to run correctly. http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/DeVilbiss/DeVilbiss%20DEVGTI620G.htm That website has pretty damn good prices, VERY tough to beat them outside of used equipment or lucky ebay finds. Now, for a good gun on the cheap, the Finishline series by Devilbiss comes well recommended. I'll be honest, I havent personally sprayed with one myself but I know a few poeple that have had great results with them and love the hell out of them. Oh, its my understanding that the Sata with the digital read is nothing different, it just has a very accurate, built in regulator. Nice, but if you have one of the large air dryer/regulators on the wall of the booth, it tends to be alot better to simply turn the pressure down at that and forgo a regulator on the gun itself. Most gun regs restrict flow to lesser and greater degrees and hurt the volume of air, which is important for the gun to spray its best, regulating at the wall with those big bastards is a good way to keep CFM up and limit restriction.

I wish to hell that thing was on my side of the country, It'd be a race between us to get it, haha. What happens first, you sell your car or I get my FA checks? hahaha. Looks like a great deal if it checks out and isnt made of rust on the underside, lol. Good luck man.

Heres a few I came up with, Ill try to think of more. Swivel Socket - Tool used to instill a false sense of hope that you CAN get to that bolt without taking 438 things out of the way. Repair Manual - Used to help figure out how to remove the 434 things in the way of the bolt the swivel socket couldnt get to. 4 of the original 438 were broken while trying to 'bend' them out of the way a little, just a little. Cell Phone - Interesting tool used to contact competent individuals who can actualy tell you what the hell your doing. Also oddly attracted to liquids of all forms, known to leap from pockets into drain pans, cups of coffee, parts washers and similar devices. Welder - Used by skilled craftsmen to join similar metals together for a wide range of reasons, used by the rest of us to remind us we are not skilled crasftment. Also used to set ones self on fire and remind us not only are we not skilled craftsmen, but we're stupid to. Mulitmeter - Used to frustrate and confuse. Plasma Cutter - See prev. post about quiji board principle. Hole Saw - Used to grip metal at high RPM and cause serious damage to wrists and hands. 10mm, 12mm, 1/2 and 3/8's sockets - Usually heard in the sentence "DAMNIT (see 'damnit tool' above) I just had the FRIGGEN 1/2, WHERE THE HELL COULD IT HAVE GONE" 'Shallow' Sockets - Used to almost get to the bolt/nut. Deep Well Sockets - Used to get REALLLYY close to the bolt/nut. Extensions (various sizes) - Used to finally get to the bolt nut, but not leave enough room between the firewall and end of the ratchet to get the bolt past those LAST THREE THREADS. 3 ft. extension - Often held in the hand of random idiots that pass through your garage while they 'hee-yuk' like a donkey and compare the length of the extension with that of their penis, or for the less imaginative simply provoke the exclamation "Thats a big-ass extension, day-um!" The phrase "git r done" - Used to make me hate you. Spark Plug Gapper - Often used to screw up the platimum tip on plugs you arent supposed to gap but were too stupid to check before-hand. Anti-Freeze Tester - Used to invoke the phrase "What the hell is this?" 5th of whiskey - Used to make me think I'm a better mechanic than I really am and care less when I prove myself wrong.

Thumper, I dont think its an issue of it not flowing enough.. The motor boosts to 7psi stock, and we confirmed this before we pulled it all out of the donor car. The only thing thats been changed since we yoinked it out of the Capri has been the addition of a larger downp pipe.. It worked fine before, now its not at all! well, we've added 2.25 I/C piping as well, but I cant imagine that having an effect. I dont know what the hell is going on, but the car is boosting like a maniac and 20psi is going to eat it alive quickly. On a side note.. 20psi in 3rd gear will break the tires loose.. OMG its fun.. Where do you all recommend taking the WG feed from? I used a random extra nipple off the intake plenum, right next to where the boost guage feeds from. I honestly dont know whats going on, this doesnt make any sense and no one else thats done this swap is having any trouble.. Something is up, just dunno what that is. I'm gonna pull the DP off and have a look at the WG itself and see if its moving with the actuator arm,, Maybe something internal is broken. Any suggestions guys?

The Festiva has been eating kids around Lexington this weekend. we wracked up some decent kills here and there until we ran across a 98-ish Civic Si.. Yeah, a friggen Civic handed us our FIRST LOSE. Its a GSR swapped, turbo, gutted, bolt-on'd and nitrous' little thing though, it is baadd. he goes 11.90's on the bottle and had slips to prove it, haha. Wanna know whats REALLY funny though? and more than a little scary? He took me by two cars going full out from a dig and I was shifting 1k RPM early (still boosting too high) and we have a mystery bogging issue thats popping up in the upper RPM range around 16 PSI.. I honestly think if I could have rung the gears out properly, we had our slicks on and the car wasnt bogging we could take him.. That puts us ALOT faster than I thought we were, lol.

Yet another bad spin on the SHO's name.. I sold her today for 1700$, lol, new paint and all to an old fellow I work with. I have some solace in the fact the car will be taken care of, but she'll likely never see anything over 1/2 peddle again.. As of now, for the first time since I was 17 I am totally car less. Ive been without a running vehicle before (way too often.. lol) but never without ANY vehicle.. Its an odd feelin to be sure. Good news is all my bills are paid! I'm no longer being evicted and not in any danger of having to leave school, lol, which would be the motivation for selling the SHO which I would MUCH rather have kept. After all is said and done I should be able to add *about* 800$ to my end-of-february-financialaid-car-fund putting me a tad over 5 grand, IF everything works out as planned. I get two more pay checks before the FA is due to completely arrive so they should easily take care of the gas I have to pay my friends to drive me around for a few weeks, lol. Who knows, maybe I'll be able to take some money out of them, a couple hundred and toss it into the fund as well.. Man, if I had a working budget of 5500$ I would be in heaven. Still undecided on just what I want to buy though. Its really looking to come down to a 1st gen DSM or 95+ Trans Am. Problem is, I put alot of miles on a car.. Having a weekly round trip commute of about 160 miles + that again in general driving.. I'd like to get a little beater car of some form to drive around.. I dunno. Hell, if I could find a DSM for around 2500$ I could buy a damn Miata (I REALLY WANT ONE, they just slow slow slow) as a DD if I could find one around 2k. Oh well. The SHO is still in the drive way actually, I have to pull my stereo out of it and such and the old man wont take it off my hands for another week, though he has the signed title and Ive been paid. I'm praying to get a decent day to wash the hell out of and take some pics before its gone. I dont have any pics of it once I got it painted, haha. Anyone within about 200 miles of Ky selling something on the cheap? lol,

RX-7's are out.. I dont know rotary motors and I dont want to learn, lol. I have bbbaaadddd dreams about seals and ♥♥♥♥ that spins and gaskets and stuff.. Crotch rocket got some SERIOUS thought for a while but this will likely be my only vehicle for a while.. so a bike in winter as my only transportation isnt the best idea.. Though goodness I want a GSX 750.. Miata's have crossed my mind before and Im doing research now based on suggestions. I dont think I'll be able to pull it off though, its looking like a Miata cant be had (thats worth a damn) for under about 2.5k and the turbo kits I'm pricing look to start around 1.6k for an ultra cheapy, but the more complete kits with I/C ecu/engine management, etc are around 3k-ish, its dancing on the absolute upper limit of my budget, which negates any room for error, over cost or general maintenance and a stock Miata, while amazing, is simply slow, and I cant handle any more slow cars, haha. Looking around at Z31's now. I hadnt thought of them.

Ok, I'm in the market for a new car, or will be come the end of February anyway, My budget looks to be abut 4500-5000$ dollars. I could swing a small payment (sub 200$) if it came to it but its not something I like the idea of, so really, 5k is tops. What would you all recommend that falls in this price range and packs the most punch for the dollar? My criteria are as follows: It needs to be fast out of the box, stock power, I cant get in to a huge project as this will be a DD for the most part. I dont mind to buy something for less than my budget and put some money in to the engine though, that doesnt bother me at all, I just cant invest in a motor swap thing thats gonna take me 3 months to finish. It needs to be a 5/6 speed. It needs to look good and be as new as humanly possible, 90+. Ive been looking a Tran-Am's 95-97 or so (they changed the ignition or something in 95.. its supposed to be largely preferred over the 94 models) they seem to fall about in price range and pack quite a punch for the money spent, about a flat 14 stock, respond stupid well to mods and look great. I've also been looking at the 1st gen DSM's. Can be had for half my asking price and you can really do a lot with them. 13's arent a stretch at all if I had 2.5k-ish to put back in to the car. They suffer from being.. well, ugly though. not bad, but not the eye catcher a trans-am is. The purpose of this car will be.. umm. well, to be beat on. Something I can have alot of fun in, 1/4 mile, I want to auto-x, just a general fun car. It will be receiving some 'show' mods to the tune of a nice paint job that will be a little over done on purpose, shaved this' and that's.. The car will act as both toy and billboard for the work I can do. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I dont know what route I'll be going but I'd like to see what everyone here thinks and recommends!

Ok. Update, We pulled everything off and got to the actuator, we applied shop air to the tune of 18psi and the actuator arm moves freely and easily, I checked that it was connected to the wastegate itself and it is. So what I did was replace the line, cap the original source and tap in to a boost/vac source from the intake itself, right next to where the boost gauge takes its reading. I see no reason why this should help, but *shrug* the Wastegate seems to be opening just fine, so we'll see. We're putting everything back together now to see if that fixed the problem. To get to the actuator arm in this car we have to rip off the I/C, Rad and a whole lot of junk in the way. So, by way of trouble shooting, if you all were in my position, what would be your next guess, where would you go from here assuming we still boost too high? Oh, I also applied pressure to the actuator and held it to see if it would maintain and it did, doesnt seem to be leaking off at all. Oh, I also removed the MBC completely. Running stock we should boost to 7psi. Maybe a little higher since we have have larger DP and are runnig it wide open. Still though, not 20+ ha. Ill report back as soon as we road test it.

Thanks for the info and link guys. I'll get to it tomarrow and use some shop air. I'll cut the PSI down to around 15 or so before I do. I dont think its a boost controller issue. The boost is WAY too high to begin with. The B6T boosts 7psi stock, and thats what it was running at when it came out of the Capri, we confirmed it in our test drives before the motor was pulled. Nothing was changed that should cause it to boost like it is unless somewhere during our test fits, placement and weirdness it was damaged, which is a real possibility. The FPR regulator didnt make it, haha. I'll look it over as best as I'm able and see what we're looking at. If the WG inside the turbo is pooped out on us it'll give us an excuse to have the turbo rebuilt and ported a little bit, haha. Edit, where should I take the Wastegate feed from? I have it coming from a nipple just before the throttle body.

Ok, I think our wastegate is toast folks. (in the Festiva). Today during some extended test runs we really got to see what it would do.. and what it did was boost to 22psi. That = explosion. We did a couple extra runs, more carefully and the boost will climb to 15psi or so somewhat slowly (I would consider it a little too slow but being unfamiliar with the car and this setup I'm not complaining.. yet, lol) but anyway, it hits 15-16psi which is what its supposed to run at, then all of a sudden BOOM. It FLIES up to 20+ and it does it quick. We have a manual boost controller I hooked up today and turned the boost all the way down.. Nothing, no change. Turned it up, no change. Nothing we do is effecting the boost, which leads me to beleive the wastegate has eatin it. It worked when we pulled the Capri motor out but I think at some point it died. How do you go about testing a Wastegate to see if its done? I swear I searched, lol.

That was extremely cool, clever to, I liked it alot.