driftz240

its just a movie, someone out there must like it, I think there made for the 11-17 year old audiance, the ones who belive you can go so fast with nitrous that your car falls apart and you look like the millinum falcon running the kessel run in 11 parsec's.....I saw the first, wasent a fan, but i did watch it. same thing with INITAL-D "I was a fan long before the anime" but after the anime was out in america I have had a billion kids tell me my ae86 corolla is fast and ask if I drift...I still like initald even thow the people who said it was cool a few years ago now say its gay.

OHHH, by the way, if you drift a clutch type diff, you might concider changing the oil alot more often, i do every 3 events. youd be surprised what you find. i hear some d1 and formula d teams change the oil in everything after every event...maybe even make or buy a diff cooler

if you plan on drifting, theres a billion companys that make the r200 12mm 10 bolt unit you need, I bought a nismo gt lsd, its a 2 way and has a much more progressive feeling than the kick in the but you get with the kazz units, i did alot of searching, i also found a helical diff made by obx for around 400$ all over ebay. heres what i found new diffs nismo gt lsd 700$ "way different design on the new nismos from the old ones, more clutches beefier parts and much more brake away torque,locking pressure" nismo gt lsd pro 900$ kazz 650$ "bam your sideways" instant kick in the pants lock, and looks like inside tire is going to fall off turning tight at slow speeds" cusco 7-850$ power brute 600$ spend the extra 50 and get a kazz obx helical $400 might be ok for track car, if you can get by the name. used diffs nissan vlsd, you have to modify the axels, but carrier will fit in the longnose.150$ from junkyard phantom grip, i wouldent use this to drift, it is just gonna exlpode in the diff or mess up the spider gears after a few events. welding, some love it some hate it, i think they understeer and you cant make quick changes like with a good lsd, you must kind of center the car to streight and begin drifting the other direction with caution to avoid the loop, im not a fan but alot of guys drift fine with them welded.. hope this helps, i talked to alot of drifters at my events and test drove a few different s13s with different lsd's, any diff is better than none...

the hts is 2 inches shorter in the main body, and 2 inches shorter in the rod length. im not exactly sure how to determin internal travel, how do i mesure that, im guessing bottom the strut out and mesure how much is sticking out the top, is that correct? is that what you are looking for?

the hts is 2 inches shorter in the main body, and 2 inches shorter in the rod length. im not exactly sure how to determin internal travel, how do i mesure that, im guessing bottom the strut out and mesure how much is sticking out the top, is that correct? is that what you are looking for?

ahhh i have found enuff a-holes on the internet lately...thanks lol anyone have an illumina dyno graph john could traslate? i just want to see what would be better the illuminas commonly used or tokico hts, whats so bad about the crazy good struts comment, i feel they are good, and on other cars i have used them on i have gotten excellent results..but driver preference goes along way.

ahhh i have found enuff a-holes on the internet lately...thanks lol anyone have an illumina dyno graph john could traslate? i just want to see what would be better the illuminas commonly used or tokico hts, whats so bad about the crazy good struts comment, i feel they are good, and on other cars i have used them on i have gotten excellent results..but driver preference goes along way.

how much are they? group buy? and who are they made by..

yeah, ill get some up soon, i lost the digi camera software rendering my camera powerless...lol ill have a friend take pics, its not too impressive on blocks in primer spots..

mine is adjustable so if you add wider wheels you can adjust to stop 1/4 inch before you rub the tire on somthing

Im not so sure on the 280zx rack i havent opened one up. there are a few ways to do it. Alot of drift guys buy longer tie rods and things that give them alot of toe out, witch makes the car "in my opinion" a bit twitchy. the old fashon way would be to get a vw rack "alot of different sizes are made, and it could be easily adapted to pretty much any car with a bit of machine shop work. what i did was much different, i disassembled the rack, and had the ends of it where the stops sit machined to let the rack move in farther before hitting the stops, you can actually go up to 3/4 inch before the rack runs out of teeth, this way the rack is the same overall length it just can travel farther, this way it adds no excessive toe out and the car remains very stable, and not darty during turn in..my rack mods added 1/2 further travel to each side, as far as how much angle has changed it is very noticable to the eye, but i havent thrown a gage on it yet to mesure the exact change..but in drifting angle is the difference in looping the car and maintaining control. and getting retarded sideways in the process.

thanks for the info I do like in the forum rules how you say not to take things personally, sounds like you guys may have p-ed some folks off in the past.. id have to say this is the harshest website i have ever been on.. on the other hand back to the subject. I did more testing and the 95 mr2 front kyb-agx fit in the front 240z struts, the cases would be cut 30.8mm, the dampeners are 4 way adjustable.the upper mounts would have to be drilled to a circle hole from the stock "D" shaped hole. the rears from the 95 mr2 will work in the 240z rear with a cut from 2 inches or space to what you choose, rears would be 8 way adjustable. I am also looking into the trd race struts for the same 95 mr2 application, I wouldent know what I was looking at on a shock dyno graph,but im sure there out there if you planned on buying a set and wanted to see one. The ae86 tokico hts "if your into drifting", would be a 2 inch cut in front "hts 102" and a 1.5 in the rear with hts112. Basicly anything you can find for the sw20 mr2 "carterage strut, there was a sealed strut on a few versions". Another thing i wanted to look into was the rear control arm angle when you lower the car, since it has the spindle pin design how would you correct control arm geometry after the car is lowered, the front suspension can use bump steer spacers, the rear is a mystery to me...any ideas? i have yet to install my rear suspension on the car ,the struts have been cut 40mm, and i am estimating about a 1/2 inch more drop in the springs with weight on wheels.. Was my grammar and punctuation better on this one? im not an english major, but am a college grad, and can type somewhat when i slow down and use only 2 fingers...

thanks for the info I do like in the forum rules how you say not to take things personally, sounds like you guys may have p-ed some folks off in the past.. id have to say this is the harshest website i have ever been on.. on the other hand back to the subject. I did more testing and the 95 mr2 front kyb-agx fit in the front 240z struts, the cases would be cut 30.8mm, the dampeners are 4 way adjustable.the upper mounts would have to be drilled to a circle hole from the stock "D" shaped hole. the rears from the 95 mr2 will work in the 240z rear with a cut from 2 inches or space to what you choose, rears would be 8 way adjustable. I am also looking into the trd race struts for the same 95 mr2 application, I wouldent know what I was looking at on a shock dyno graph,but im sure there out there if you planned on buying a set and wanted to see one. The ae86 tokico hts "if your into drifting", would be a 2 inch cut in front "hts 102" and a 1.5 in the rear with hts112. Basicly anything you can find for the sw20 mr2 "carterage strut, there was a sealed strut on a few versions". Another thing i wanted to look into was the rear control arm angle when you lower the car, since it has the spindle pin design how would you correct control arm geometry after the car is lowered, the front suspension can use bump steer spacers, the rear is a mystery to me...any ideas? i have yet to install my rear suspension on the car ,the struts have been cut 40mm, and i am estimating about a 1/2 inch more drop in the springs with weight on wheels.. Was my grammar and punctuation better on this one? im not an english major, but am a college grad, and can type somewhat when i slow down and use only 2 fingers...

MY S30 drift BUILD SO FAR INCLUDES 1. completely down to metal chassis, frame welding, 10pt cage, front and rear strut brace, thicker floor pans, and hd floor frames, thicker front frame rails, fuel cell, removed all sound deadening, painted 2. modified adjustable stop steering rack, for crazy angle 3. short stroke coilovers cut 40mm all around, 8k front 6k rear springs custom valved dampers 8way adjustable, adjustable endlink sways, new bushings threw the car.neg camber bump steer spacers in works and msa upper mounts 4. nismo gt lsd in r200 w/3.9 gear ,centerforce df clutch, 4 speed and a 5 spd spare. wanna see witch i like better 5. 280zxt swap, intercooler, bov, 2.5 to 3 dwn pipe, 3 in exhaust no muffler, boost controler, hi pressure holly fuel pump, and raising rate fpr, t3/t4 hybrid turbo, msa 4row radiator.cold air intake. oil cooler,injectors,sic, keeping it easy and old school is half the fun..running 12psi boost always, 6. corbeau forza seats, nismo wheel,autometer gages, g force belts, new interior xhatch vinal, carpet.perfect interior 7. 131collision is putting a candy blue paint job in it "close to the rx-8 winning blue"and some crome graffix "undecided on graffics still", i want some 16+8 ssr longchamp xr4 wheels, but i have sorced a set of kaiser race wheels, still need more wheels, the zxt nazi wheels will work for local events to burn up tires but need serious rubber for serious events. 8. braided brake lines, 4runner front cal, drilled brake rotors, carbon met pads, rear carbon met shoes, braided lines, hydraulic parking brake. ummm im sure i left some stuff out...ohhhh msa type 3 front bumper... sure theres more i left out but in a nut shell.... i plan on developing this at local u.s.drift and beaverun events this season, and am in a rush to get it sorted for the formula d qualifier in new jersey..

Well indent your sentances then.

Well indent your sentances then.

what if i dont like neutral...lol i know about corner balancing and yata yata, i mean do you feel they would explode under the higher rate springs that drifters seem to favor... or as the paper states 4kgfmm "200" to 10kgfmm "550" and tune them into somthing that could make the car work for just about anyones taste.. everyone says the illuminas explode over 250lb spring rate... i will agree you seem to know much more about the physics and workings of shocks than I. i never claimed to be an engineer, im just looking off the shelve alternatives to the illumina and koni and others people seem to use commonly, i infact am having somthing made up custom valved, but i do plan on using higher spring rates, makeing the car slide and do it smoothly requires a different approch than road racing... but bang for the buck i think the mr2 agx or the tokico hts would be a good alternative...not everyone revalves shocks in there basement or has axcess to shock dynos, not everyone owns scales, and if i set up a drift car using scales to determin my ideal spring rates it might not work like i expect it too... autox or road race are quite different..

what if i dont like neutral...lol i know about corner balancing and yata yata, i mean do you feel they would explode under the higher rate springs that drifters seem to favor... or as the paper states 4kgfmm "200" to 10kgfmm "550" and tune them into somthing that could make the car work for just about anyones taste.. everyone says the illuminas explode over 250lb spring rate... i will agree you seem to know much more about the physics and workings of shocks than I. i never claimed to be an engineer, im just looking off the shelve alternatives to the illumina and koni and others people seem to use commonly, i infact am having somthing made up custom valved, but i do plan on using higher spring rates, makeing the car slide and do it smoothly requires a different approch than road racing... but bang for the buck i think the mr2 agx or the tokico hts would be a good alternative...not everyone revalves shocks in there basement or has axcess to shock dynos, not everyone owns scales, and if i set up a drift car using scales to determin my ideal spring rates it might not work like i expect it too... autox or road race are quite different..

those are all out drift shocks by the way the hts 102, so your correct road racing might be a different story but ive autoxed cars with them and cant complain...

those are all out drift shocks by the way the hts 102, so your correct road racing might be a different story but ive autoxed cars with them and cant complain...

so how do they stack up against other off the shelf adjustables commonly used by the masses on the 240z....and what spring rates would be good on them in your opinion....you can read they have been around since the 80s, i think the kyb agx would be an awesome choice also, not sure of a dyno graph but like to see your opinion off the sheld out of the box how do you feel they compare

so how do they stack up against other off the shelf adjustables commonly used by the masses on the 240z....and what spring rates would be good on them in your opinion....you can read they have been around since the 80s, i think the kyb agx would be an awesome choice also, not sure of a dyno graph but like to see your opinion off the sheld out of the box how do you feel they compare

thread from club4ag. posted above, dyno graph fo ya,

thread from club4ag. posted above, dyno graph fo ya,

More shock q's. Ok, so I got ahold of the oil shocks I was looking for and needed for an upcoming event. My next question is this: What spring rates are they valved for? I mean you can alway run any rate you want, but what are the ideals? Next, in the tech section it states this about the HTS: "45 way adjustment at top accommodating 2.5 to 15kg/mm spring rates, low-height AE86 stoke" Now a friend of mine who knows a lot about suspension was going over the shock dyno below. It's for the HTS. Now he didn't see how it was possible to be rated for such a high spring rate if you rate the force kg/m and the time in sec? I think. I'm no shock master by any means that's for sure. Corey Auto racing is an addiction cured only by poverty 1987 GTS Coupe currently ??? http://www.splparts.com Yeah, The HTS things were right out of a manufacturer's touting of the HTS, written back in the 80's. We have used them for 4kg/mm rates and up to 10kg/mm ratings. They are pretty usable for these ranges but the more important factor is whatever the rate of the springs you use, the character and the balance of the valving between compression and expansion is the key to making your car handle the way you want. We've seen the HTS to be variable effectively on the compression side but somewhat lacking in range on the expansion or (rebound). Keeping this in mind, it is effective for places that need a fast reaction to initial inputs but not in places where a certain behavior is needed to be maintained. Taka likes to use stronger shocks to control the expansion rates since compression amounts and speed can be somewhat controlled by the spring rates itself. On the 45 way adjustemt...I guess with the valve controls being a infinately adjustable analog curve, you can pick 45 different places on the shocks but generally, it can turn 7 times and the range being what it is, I'd like to think of the HTS as a 7 way... as breaking it up into 45 settings is virtually useless in such small increments unless you are making a graph such as above? Remember, shocks controls the "speed" or "response time" of suspension against a load, and springs and assist springs like sway bars, adjust the "amount" of suspension movements.