roger.svoboda

boost gage wouldn't show any pressure increase if turbo blown. when my son lost the one on my 280 he said it made a noise like a weed wacker and the oil temp went sky high.

probbly burning it up due to bad valve seals. most common cause. car should idle around 700. check for vacuum leaks. pull the oil filler cap the car should run poorly if nothing changes you got a vacuum leak. put a piece of cardboard under the engine after running and see if you got oil drips when you pull it back out.

the 81 radiator has an integral oil cooler for the auto tranny which if I remember right is the bottom of the radiator. the 82/83 turbo radiator are the same as the n/a cars and the coolant drain is bottom right (i think but for sure bottom) also what happens is that the plug is plastic and when you hit a bumper in the parking lot it breaks the wings off and you cant really find the drain with out close examination.

ask him if it is rectangular or round. then look at the end of the drive shaft you want to use. Still doesn't answer the question of the spline diameters however. Not sure about the length of the T5 but I put a nissan 5spd in a turbo car with auto and drive shaft length was okay.

Don't know about the t5 but the auto driveshaft will not work with a standard 5 speed. the output spline of the tranny is smaller than the input of the auto shaft. there are two types of flanges to make up to the input of the diffy. one is a round one that i believe is the standard tranny/diffy link. the other is a rectangular looking one. don't loose the bolts they are like a halfmoon and about hte only thing that will work. supposedly you can find either the round one or the rectangular one to fit the r200. If you can't find the right stuff you may have to take both shafts to a drive shaft place and have them mate the proper ends.

they are like 60 for the pair do yourself a favor and replace both. The one you didn't replace will fail on a dark and stormy night somewhere around LaPlace on the way to NOLa.

mostly tedious and frustating because of the amount of gear you need to dismount to get at the timing belt. On the bright side once you get it all off you can inspect the stuff you took off to see if maybe time for a change. I found some broken studs etc plus a couple pounds of gooey mud to get rid of.

sure sounds like a tensioner issue if the engine was running before the head gasket replacement.

if the engine is running which it seems to be from your post then the cas is working and sending the fire signal to coil and thus to the dizzy. The 81 dizzy is the simplest thing imaginable so any dizzy with a rotor to the correct wires ought to work. and a wire from the coil to the dizzy of course.

find a car in the junkyard that has the cv setup. I believe all the turbos had them and I know that some of the 2+2 also came that way. you need the halfshaft and the companion flanges after that just some wrench work. If you got a r200 or r180 diffy might make a difference not sure but I think half shafts work with either diffy. z31 swap more work and not any better. while you are there might as well grab the axles too in case you ever get a wheel bearing go out as happened to me.

if cas no work spark you no get. One solution is to find a 82 or 83 turbo dizzy (they generate fire signal in the dizzy) and use that. move the wireing from the cas to the dizzy and everything should work.

took a test drive in one today. Sweet machine. Looks better than the 350 to me they went back to more of a Z look instead of round machines that look like all the other round machines. the auto synch tranny is smooth and easy. no double clutching needed.

take the 5K and buy the black z32 on craig's list. You will be able to take all the hondas with big pipes and lot of other iron that folks think is fast. If you really want to stick with the 280 (mine is an 83) buy a donor turbo car for under a thou and swap out the engine. The L6 properly cared for is a very reliable power plant. Do the suspension, wheel bearings, better exhaust, better intake. I like the looks of the 280 but I also think my z32 is the prettiest z ever made but the 370 might win me over. If you are interested check out our website at zccw.com meet some folks that have owned most of the Z's made from the 240 on up altho no one has popped for a 370 yet

pretty sure they are between n/a cars but turbo and n/a not interchangeable.

disregard all that is said about how easy it is. Even for experienced wrench there are a lot of things to plan on and money to spend. Sure you can do all those things but how much patience do you have to see the project through. This isn't a couple of weekends it is many days of tedious time consuming work. As I said at first if you find a donor turbo car then the process is fairly straight forward which will give you a running vehicle. you can then experiment with aftermarket electronics, boost controllers and etc.

oil pump the same. need fuel pump, ecu, injectors, pistons, exhaust, dizzy just to name a few. If you can't find a donor car or buy a turbo then do a few things that help out. Better intake system (k&n filter). Larger exhaust, headers, free flow muffler. My 83 got a few more ponies with that. Do a complete check and tune up. Timing, plugs, new ignition wires stuff like that. Take all the connectors apart in the engine compartment and clean them well. Drop some weight there are things you can do without radically altering the vehicle.

it isn't a sensor it is a simple on off switch. On the 5 speed tranny all you have are the back up lights. slushbox has two one for start interlock and one for backup

My sun shades curled up due to wife parking in sun in a parking lot a few days. anyone know a trick way to straighten them. I was thinking some boards and weight on top.

what nismo pick said but what I did was disconnect the wire from the pump so it would not run. Be sure your battery is fully loaded and/or have a backup. Hold the accelerator to the floor and start cranking. Let her crank a long while. If you don't get a response let things rest a few minutes then do the long crank again with the throttle wide open. You should get some action. It will run a few seconds then die. Repeat until you now longer get any response. Took about three or four times on my 83 turbo. Now reconnect the wire to the fuel pump and she will probably fire and run normally. no wide open throttle.

it ain't no vacuum leak if they go to the floor. vacuum leak will make the engine run crappy and brakes are real hard to step on but they don't go to the floor. You need a new master cylinder for sure unless you look at the wheels and see brake fluid everywhere which means you have no brake pads and the caliper piston is overextending. you might want to consider professional help and/or find a local z club usually a member will give you advice and help. Remember not stopping can cause severe bodily harm upon contact with immovable objects.

driveline match up may be an issue but I'd see what both cars have before you take stuff off. i think the 83 n/a also has the r200 diffy. 99% certain the 81T does (mine did). If you can find a 82 or 83 turbo distributor you can eliminate the hassles with the crank angle sensor on the 81 but wil work either way. sounds like you have both cars so you should find what you need as you go along. Find one with a 5 speed and get rid of the automatic while you are at it. T5 or the nissan n/a 5 speed will work fine.

you got to pull the center instrument cluster to get at it. four or six screws steering wheel off. comes out about 2-3 inches then you got to disconnect the electrics. short piece of speedo cable detaches just behind the firewall don't lose the little white plastic part that connects the two cables.

digital dash are dainty. check on posts for repairing conductors on the circuit board. replace chts may clear your other problem

use a matchstick or something in an electric drill that will drive the speedo. there isn't a lot of resistance so you just need something to jam in there that will spin the speedo. spin it and see if the speedo works. if it works then you did something screwy putting cable in. you will see a label on the speedo says like so many rpm input is 60 mph. Usually about the max speed of most battery drills.

flywheel attaches to the engine so no mystery there. only difference is turbo and 2+2 have a 240 mm clutch plate and the n/a have a 225 mm so it is better if you can get a 240 mm flywheel (more friction area)