roger.svoboda

try pulling all the connectors apart in the engine compartment especially the afm and tps. Check for corrosion and clean as best you can. Long shot but easy to check make sure your battery cables are clean both ends and free of corrosion. If someone put those one size fit all clamp connectors on there get rid of them soonest. Check to see that the ground was not cut off and run direct tothe starter it is supposed to jump to a bolt below the battery box and then to the starter. is the boost gage working and you know the turbo is spooling up? check your fuel pressure maybe something happened in the fuel delivery system just sitting around.

check the zip file size first should be 60 meg or so. make sure you are unzipping it to the correct directory. If you received the full zip file then something wrong with your unzip program try downloading one of the freegies on the net

easy swap kinda depends on what he wants for the wreck. Some of the 2+2 had the cv joint rear axle plus you get the bigger clutch. If it just got hit in the butt then fire it up and see what she runs like. A wrecked zx is worth maybe $500 to a thou max

needs vacuum to work and a signal from the speedometer to tell it what speed you want. Oh yeah and a cable to the throttle

yes same t5

Just need to find tdc on #1. several writeups on this search

I put an 81 n/a 5 speed into an 81 turbo she ran fine. I don't dump the clutch at every red light tho. you will have to make sure you get the requisite parts. there are several writeups on what is needed.

good lluck zx aren't getting a lot of money. 2500 not too bad if you find someone looking for zx. Get a 2+2 put the baby in the back. My little chicks all flew the coop so I can do with a two seater now.

good thought about the guide pins. Harbor Freight has a tranny scissor jack mechanical that works well but if you are only going to do the job once get a friend with arms the size of your leg.

did you get rid of the safety interlocks associated with the slushbox? If all you did is swap a tranny shouldn't be any thing else interfering with the engine running.

impact wrench.

If you can find a shop that specializes in speedometers you might be able to get them to fab one up.

the 81 distributor is different in that the fire signal is sent by a crank angle sensor where the flywheel pulley comes out of the engine. the head is different than the n/a models. should be a p90 with solid lifters. the 82,83 had hydraulic lifters and a p90a designation. Inlet air size is different for the turbos so yes afm for an n/a engine is like 2.5 inches and the turbo is 3". be something like 65mm vs 75mm. I'd check the turbo closely they start to get delicate after 100K miles. My 83 sheared the shaft at like 150 K. If you can't get stock units to fit then the megasquirt is probably your best bet to get it running. Are you sure it is a turbo that is an n/a hood on it.

yes the turbo flywheel and the 2+2 flywheel take the same diameter friction disc. its a 240 mm and I think n/a are 225

There are stampings on the ring gear which you can use to determine the raatio. Sure you have r200. lots of that year have r180. measue horizontal across the diffy. r180 is six plus inches and the r200 is 8 plus. hard to tell unless they are sitting together or you have mucho experience. parts should fit if both are r200

anyone know what the switch on top of the t5 tranny is for. I know the side mounted one is for the back up lights but manual doesn't say what the top one is for. I'm thinking nuetral detect.

Anyone know what the top switch (or whatever it is) on a T-5 tranny for an 85 turbo car does. I know the side mounted one is for the backup lights that is shown in the manual but can't locate any info on the other. The wire to it was busted and everything worked so I guess not too important but I am curious.

something in the 32 to 35 psi range or a little over 2 bar if you are a metric person

R200 is an R200 doesn't matter what it came out of. 240sx, truck, 280zx or z31. Only thing is what ratio you want. turbo got nothing to do with it. when I swapped out the 81 turbo I actually put an R180 in it cause I found one off a 2+2 with cv joints and didn't have to modify or find the right drive shaft parts. Never had a problem. Course if you build a 400 hp monster you might want the r200.

you need the half shafts off a 280zx tho cause the z31 are longer (I think). They only pop out of the diffy so easy to change but you will need the matching flanges as the bolt pattern on the cv's is different than the universal joint half shaft. also you might have driveshaft problems. I did when I swapped out the slushbox on an 81 turbo for a 5 speed n/a tranny. input output splines were not the same. Friend of mine thought he could just put a z31 rear assembly in his 280 but he never got to it cause he blew engine parts all over the pavement. But pretty much all the parts swap out. the 84, 85 z31 are probably closer to the 280 I've noticed. they used a lot of the same stuff. I believe the axles are the same so you could probably just put 5 lug axles in her.

depending on where you live it isn't all that important. I am in the Pacific Northwest and have taken it off all my vehicles. Never had a start problem. It really is only a problem if you drive hard and fast then stop at the pit stop on the interstate and want to go on again in a couple minutes. if it ever becomes a real problem pop the hood and let it cool off that way.

If you got a real battery (ie lead acid) and not one of those crappy gel cells it should recharge with not problem.

or the fuel pump is shot pinch off the return line and see what you get.

back pressure regulator is shot. what ever fancy term the car guys call it that is what it does.

the injectors only pulse so you need a noid light to see what is going on. also they make noise if you listen with a stethoscope. just cause they get voltage doesn't mean they are opening. I'd lay them on newspaper (out of the engine) and fire the starter see if they are all spraying. Or make a rig that you can test one at a time.