roger.svoboda

junkyard cut off what you need.

check your fuel pressure at the rail. without that you are shooting in the dark without a night sight.

clean everything up and then use yellow or white paint to fill the grooves. You can see everything good after that.

both miller and lincoln make continuous voltage change machines. as they both also make step voltage adjustment machines. The completely variable machines just cost more. Check around for a welding supply shop in your area or on line. Home Depot and Lowes don't sell the high end machines. I have a preference for Miller simply because I have used their equipment and always worked fine. I now have a Lincoln that I bought off Craig's list for $200. Got the bottle for $80 filled. If you don't have a large budget depends on how much welding you are thinking of doing. Best Rig is continuously variable voltage with gas. I opted for the step voltage simply because I didn't have the money for a new rig. So far all the welding I have done has worked fine. You need to know what is the thickest material you will be welding so that you have sufficient amps to do a good job.

unplug the tps (or I guess pull the wires out) and see if that cures the problem. Then check the maf per the fsm. You don't really need to pull it out of the car. Pull the rubber boot back so you can see the connections. Push pins in the appropriate lettered connector then with some japanese jumpers and a VOM you can get the readings. You need to run 12v to pin E with the engine off to get one reading. Then start the engine (pull the 12v wire first) and you get the reading specified when you blow air thru the device. If everything else checks out you might want to cut the purple wire at pin 29 at the ecu. This is the overspeed limiter. Spent two weeks on an 85T swapping ecus, mafs, tracing wires to no avail. After much cussing and head banging found that to be the problem. Also you can exceed 137 mph if that fixes things.

what makes you think it is overcharging?

there is a spring clip that hold the clutch fork for assembly but once everything is tight it just stays in place unless you take something apart. Only way to fix is drop the tranny. be sure to check the clutch fork fulcrum pin for cracking. they break. cheap to replace if you can find one. while you got it out might want to consider new throwout bearing and rear engine seal.

Honda sockets work on 280zx and there are plenty in the junkyard. Stuff like that is made for Nissan not by them so mostly look at other jap cars and see if they are the same.

If you got 5K I'll sell you my running 86 and you can spend a 1000 on refinements. point being you can buy a whole car why look for parts.

Meant to post the answer but we had other problems also. The above problem was that the tps stuck altho we had checked it less than two weeks previous so the ecu thought the car was supposed to be at idle and would cut the fuel back even tho the throttle was open. So the answer is don't depend on what it was last week - recheck. After that however the speed limiter device went south and the car wouldn't go over 2000 rpm but unlike a bad maf it would rev to the redline if you weren't moving. cut the purple wire at pin 29 and solved that problem. The combination of things going out at once was fairly frustrating as kept checking and kept getting the right answer but the car still not running. She doing fine now.

Oil pump could be a tooth off that would explain why you can't get to desired setting. Or pulley slipped. might want to crank it to TDC compression on #1 (both cam lobes pointing up) and see where the timing marks are.

oh by the way. good bunch of guys down there in the portland z car club. Might want to touch base with them. Lots of expertise there.

the power transistor that makes the coil make high voltage for spark. DID you get anything wet while changing out the pump. I think I would pull the dizzy cap make sure everything dry in there. Check afm & tps connector for moisture or corrosion as above. Beyond that something got knocked loose ? during repair. Have you checked your timing? sounds kinda like what happens on a z31 when the maf goes. Have you looked at the EFI bible at atlanticz I think. Only time I had crazy stuff like that on my 83 was when I had a faulty battery. Of course this could be coincedental to the water pump but generally what is the last thing I did solves the problem.

have you got the ground wire on the dizzy connected? Also need a ground for the power transistor i seem to remember that it could be left off. don't have my 83 at home so can't go look.

disconnected something and didn't reconnect after the work. I'd recheck everything you did. After that just start eliminating problems. Don't neglect rechecking the battery and associated cables. most places load test for free. battery cables with corrosion can cause problems as zx sensitive to voltage.

has anyone found an easy way to unplug this type connector. found in pairs one white one black. The really hold together.

yes. only problem might be matching up the driveshaft flange. they should both be r200 diffys. if one is cv half shaft and the other is universal then you need to swap half shafts or hubs. if one is an r180 and the other is r200 then half shafts have to go with the diffy as the r180 is skosh narrower.

you might check around with the portland z club they got a bunch good guys down there can probably help out if you make contact. sounds like you hit all the stuff that should be the problem. There is a post on zbum or atlanticz on checking and readjusting the air flow meter. yes it can get a dead spot on the potentiometer from driving a lot at one opening (speed). and it can get out of position.

be sure you didn't knock any wires or vacuum hoses loose when you were working on the clutch master. pull the oil filler cap when idling. if it doesn't make it run worse then you have a vacuum leak someplace.

Yes it was the tps even tho we had verified it three weeks earlier. Another case of assumption biting one on the butt.

maf we changed out came from a runner. Happened suddenly. Running liked a striped babboon at 1800. Try to start the next morning around 0730 and nothing. When idling she sounds perfect no vibration, no miss just smooth as silk. Hold open the throttle a bit and it tries to rev then dies back like the ecu is cutting off the fuel and then giving it back.

yep tps won't do that it only leans things out at idle. ran the codes nothing.

85 Turbo GL. Changed plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor,new fpr and chased down all the vacuum leaks we could find. Idles fine around 20" mercury vacuum. New chts. Changed the maf. verified ecu in my 86T runs fine. Verified wiring to the maf with vom off the wiring diagram. car will start and run at 2000 rpm cold and drops off to 800 when hot. When you give the engine some additional throttle it runs dies runs dies. Won't die completely keeps on running but can't get any power or additional revs out of it. My best guess is that injectors aren't opening for every cycle or that one bank is working intermittently. When idling the engine is smooth and even with no vibration or oddities. when more air is admitted no run too good. vroom die, vroom die, keeps doing that but doesn't quit completely. How many times do you need to ackowledge the new rules before you can post?????

If you duct tape a plastic bag or sheet around the tail of the tranny you won't get leakage. It will contain small amounts of fluid due to tipping the tranny but if you keep it level as much as possible you won't get any uncontrolled leakage.

without any oil in it. I got to proof read better. too early can't sleep