roger.svoboda

the keyword here is COMPETENT, reliable and honest is also nice. Doesn't sound like the guy you went to meets all those criteria.

You might have a whole bunch more problems than a blown fusible link. Reversing the polarity of the electrical system is really bad. Your ECU might be toast

I didn't make it clear when I said the bolting is the same I meant to say it will bolt to the engine. pressure plate probably different as stated above.

ask a competent locksmith you probably get the correct answer that way.

The 2+2 flywheel and the turbo flywheel have a 240mm friction area whereas the n/a cars had a 225 mm friction area. The flywheels are identical as to boltiing and teeth for the starter.

did you check the fuses?

Improve your battery system first because without that being top notch you will find gremlins as did I when I had a new battery installed. I kept telling myself problems couldn't be related to the battery "because it was NEW". Finally got a load test done and sure enough it was marginal - replaced under warranty. Interstate batteries are the best most reliable I have ever used and they don't cost a whole bunch more than el cheapo at WalMart. Nothing special on the battery cables. Measure the positive one it should go to the starter. The ground should go from the battery to a bolt about a foot down on the body below the battery box. Then you need a cable from that bolt to the starter. This ensures good body grounding and adequate current flow to the starter. If the original cables are on the car and someone used a clamp on to make it work you will find that the negative cable goes to this bolt and then to the starter. Just cut it off above the bolt and replace the short piece you cut with good one. Many times people are lazy and just cut the ground strap off then go direct to the starter. This will work but is not the best way to install as you are then bonding to the car body through a bolted connection to the block and then to the body. Autozone or Schucks. Most good battery places have cables in stock or can make one to fit your rig if you can't find what you want at auto store. Just take it slow read the forums, read up on how engines work, ask questions of people at the auto parts store some of them know what they are talking about. Ask em what they drive and if they start telling you about the mods they made you probably have a good source. REmember stock 280zx won't smoke a modded honda but the turbo version will but they are fun to drive, fairly bulletproof, easy for a beginner to learn on.

you need a noid light to check the injectors. DID you check the fuel pressure? Have you checked that you are actually getting spark? Seem simple questions and you appear knowledgeable from your post but even the most seasoned of us have overlooked the obvious. Do you smell raw gas coming out the exhaust you may have flooded the engine. pull a plug see if it is wet OR push the gas pedal to the floor and keep it there while cranking the engine. Give it good long crank see if you get a few pops. I did that swapping a turbo engine to an n/a. Ran in circles checking and rechecking but finally dawned on me why I smelled raw fuel out the exhaust. Is your battery and cables in really good shape. Z's are real finicky about voltage a little low and they sometimes refuse to cooperate.

try zcar.com too. Hybridz has more info on modified z's. zcar more generalized.

sensor light is nothing. comes on automatically. can be disconnected. You need to download a FSM (Factory Service Manual). You can get them free at carfiche.com or xenon's website (do a search). Check your fuel pressure. You need a cheap oil pressure gage, some fuel line (be sure it is marked fuel line regular hose degrades in gasoline), some clamps and a tee of the right size. You can get that stuff at most auto stores. Pull the hose off the fuel filter (some gas will shoot out use a rag). Put a short piece of hose on the fuel filter and use the tee to connect the that and the hose you pulled off. Use more hose to hook up the pressure gage. use clamps so fuel doesn't come blowing out all over the place. Start engine check fuel pressure - should be 30 plus. Turn off engine. pressure should stay or maybe slowly drop off. This will test your pump and fuel pressure regulator. Check your battery cables for clean good terminal connections. Have the battery load tested (free most places). if you have the clamp on the wire one size fit all connectors get rid of them and replace with real battery cables. Set cost less than $20 and cheap insurance. Check the battery system first. If that is questionable it can cause your other problems. Z's are real finicky about voltage. A little low and the electronics don't function well. See if there is local z car club in your area. Even tho you are young you can probably find members who would be happy to give you some tips and other helpful information.

then I 'd say you need to adjust something. Mine don't leak. when the door is open and the window is all the way up there is no slop - everything is tight.

Just checked my 85 and my 86. unless the window is hard up there is about that much slop. If the window is down part way you can pick it up about 1/2 inch.

switches. look at your post on zcar.com I gave you some tips there. you might contact the guys at the portland z club. they got some good guys there can help you out.

so indeed he is a moron

I agree with zxr kid. I've seen manual junkers 81 to be exact with an R180. The 2+2 do seem to be R200 regardless of tranny.

It does have air powered seats, if a GLL, there are a bunch of switches on the seat that you can pump up and there is a small air compressor under the seat which operates those gizmos. Unfortunately the seat covering is a crappy vinyl/leather combo and they usually are toast by now. The three I've had were not usable but if you can find one with cloth seats in the junkyard they work nicely and weigh a lot less. I'll be charitable and assume he is a complete moron and doesn't know the difference between shocks and seat nor his a** from his elbow.

If he tries to sell it as an Anniversary Edition that would probably be a lie also

the transistor takes the place of the points in older cars. It makes and breaks the current flow to the coil. The collapsing magnetic field due to the current being cut off is what causes the secondary of the coil to generate a high voltage that makes the spark. An ignition coil is simply a special purpose transformer and the transistor provides a square wave input to the primary that translates to a square wave output from the secondary. do a search on the web for how a transistor works and you will find some good simple explanations that don't get into field effects across the boundary and other things that explain the physics of the device. It can be thought of as two diodes placed head to head and when the junction is biased current flows.

If really an 84 it won't work well with an 83 motor. You can use an 84 ecu but you need the maf and some other things. Do a search there are many posts on that swap.

go to radio shack and see if they have one in the same can size (ie looks the same) probably npn (I forget which but think not pnp) it will probably work. For the type service the ignition transistor most any transistor will work that can handle the amps. Or hit the junkyards. Any power transistor from any jap car will probably work as long as you get the right pins for emiter and collector. Base is most likely the can itself.

push in the check button next to it. A symbol will come on which will point to why it is red. couple things it could be are: low coolant, low window washer fluid, lights. If you can get an owners manual it will tell you what they are. My 83 is not here so I can't send you a picture of that page.

pull the oil filler cap when idling. If it runs worse - good. If no change then probably a vacuum leak to look for.

did you check the fuel injection bible and/or atlanticz site (might be the same) you might find some insight in reading that.

well when you start adding things to the engine bay you might take that into your planning for the installation.

put in a new fan clutch. I believe they are available.