roger.svoboda

check the one that is the original also. Not the dizzy - ecu half asleep here.

you might open the junkyard dizzy and check the innards. Look for burnt diodes and/or conductors on the board the have scorched. I have had success by running a piece of 22 ga stranded to replace blown board conductors. Replace diode if burnt. Need a 25 watt solder iron and electronic duty solder. anything heavier than 25 watt do more damage and no repair. pic of one that I resurrected.

tps won't cause miss or stumble it just changes the fuel/air ratio slightly at idle. in your replacing etc up there did it include new dizzy cap and rotor. Had the same on my 85 and that cleared it up. Running 9.5 psi boost

you may have the freeplay maladjusted.

you need to do the complete job not just half of it. Friend of mine tried to do it piecemeal and it was never right until both ball joints, both tie rod ends and new bushings were installed. all told I think it ran under $250 for the parts. Seems like it was 75 for ball joint and tie rod end and the bushing kit from msa was right at a hundred.

could be a problem in the ecu. The cas on the 81 engines can be a problem but I guess you fixed that by putting in the 83 dizzy (that is a turbo dizzy - right). get the fuel injection bible and follow directions probably get you the answer.

urethane bushings are nice. tie rod ends and balljoints plus bushings made my 83 go where I point it now.

thanks for that I hadn't got to the assembly stage yet still trying to get the shells painted. I also found that you can get the mirror off the mechanism quite easily with a heat gun. Don't yet know how to re glue but maybe just warm up whatever they used on it. Otherwise need to find some adhesive that will work. Polybutelene maybe???

one possibility is that the steering rack is not centered and so the steering wheel is not at the correct position. Happened to me on 280zx turn signals not work properly. Had to dissasemble the steering column (after centering the rack) and index it around so that the steering wheel was straight ahead as well as the wheels. Don't know if that is the fix but could be if the steering wheel needed to be moved to show straight ahead while driving.

thanks I did find that link after I had posted the question. the only thing I might add is that I made a jig out of flatbar (just drill holes that fit the mounting holes and bolt it up with m5 bolts) to hold the mirror then getting the spring off the hook is much easier. Just jam it slightly open with a screwdriver and use a thin long screw driver to get the spring off the hook. Once you do that it comes apart very easily.

if the rectifier is gone nothing would work but worn brushes can easily be replaced.

bad relay (by the way they close to give power not open). Too small wire gage going to the pump causing a voltage drop in the wire. Poor battery cables. You are using the same vom for all your measurements right? If your vom test leads are long enough check for a voltage drop from battery positive to pump positive. Could be the feed from the battery to whereever it goes and then to the relay and then to the pump. any suspect looking connections should be eliminated. every interconnection within the circuit causes some voltage drop but 1.5 volts is quite a lot.

up around seattle 3K for a zx that baby had better been in damn fine shape. I got a blue 81 turbo with shot rear interior for $500. needed a battery and muffler.

no telling what they are from your description but yes having injectors with different flow rates will not make your engine perform at top efficiency.

bsp (british straight pipe) threads and NPT are compatible except for 3/8 which is 18 tpi and 19tpi (and the smaller sizes you never see on cars). BUT you can pipe up 3/8 and usually get a leak free joint. The 1/2 inch is the same for both and you can thread them in just fine. you have to understand the difference in taper threads and straight threads which if you did a minimal web search you could find quite easlily.

ugly sure but at least it works now. still don't know what blew the diode tho.

like sweetleaf said a coil is a coil. And what kind of meter did the guy measure the spark with. Hi volt meters are expensive little rascals. I don't think a lot of guys got one.

If you can't come up with the $500 to buy it now or whaever $370 you won't have the money to fix it up so you will have a yard ornament for quite a while. Granted it is probably a good deal but you will want it to run. Rust etc can be daunting plus you don't know - turbo blown? ecu blown? wheel bearings and running gear and tranny. 81 turbo came with auto tranny only and with 250 plus on the clock hope you know how to fix auto trannies. Can't really get interior parts anymore so if trashed inside you will be driving in a trashed car with out an outlay of cash.

it may not be the same but sure will give you the feel of using without power assist.

nope wasn't that. we disconnected the battery. removed computer put it on shelf. swapped the engine and stuff. reinstalled battery. started right up and drove it to where it was going. started the funny running soon after that. installed the computer from donor car and everything was good.

when my son did that he said it sounded like a weed whacker. Turbo sheared the bucket wheel shaft. luck on that one.

just pull the power steering belt and see how you like manual steering. Got big arms?

Anyone know or have the circuit diagram for the ecu boards in a 85 z31. I've got two ecu's one starts but won't run and the other starts runs for about 5 minutes then goes to barely running. Took the covers off and found three diodes (D90, D64, and D19) that are side by side close to the input plugs. They appear to be either input or output as they go to the smaller plug. One unit has D90 blown and the other has D19 blown along with some burnt board conductors. I can repair them both with some new diodes and creative wiring but it would be nice to know what caused them to fry or at least what they are connected to outside the ecu. thanks to any who can shed some light on this.

if you look inside you will see lots of chips, transistors, resistors, diodes and capacitor on two boards I wouldn't call that not much. Pulled one apart that wouldn't work found a blown diode. I'll replace that and try it out. actually that one is off a z31 so maybe the 280zx is much simpler.

the silver one more likely a 82 or 83. the pillar on the earlier ones had a chrome or stainless trim not that black plastic.