RTz

Stop by Wolf, say "Hi" to Robbie, and ask him who Ron Tyler is. He'll probably kick dirt, and growl "One of my stubborn US dealers", or something similar Cool! I was hoping you'd go for it.

2011 or 2012?

Great news! I'm bringing a truck next time I come out

EMS decided on and aquired... Big surprise, eh?

So, I can count on you stopping in for a visit once it's drivable?

Even a stock, 185 HP SBC, will cause traction 'problems' with an otherwise stock S30. I've seen a very mild, very budget built, 355 do consistent 12.3's in the quarter. That's Viper territory. You could roll into the throttle in 3rd gear and both tires would spin up... at 60mph. You'll have to decide how far you want to go with the rest of the chassis and drivetrain before you can make a decision on practical power limits. And, of course, for some people, stupid power is still not enough. Only you can decide when enough is enough.

Yes, only donating members have classified privileges.

Ah yes, but you have an L6. This problem is common with the Chevy swap.

The locking nuts both JohnC and m1noel mentioned cured mine as well. Sometimes referred to as "prevailing torque" nuts. Not to be confused with the nylon style. They are all metallic and look pinched or crushed on one end. They work great on collector flange bolts as well. And yes, driveline vibration does seem to exaggerate the problem.

Top secret

You should have... I made off with your Euro tail lights

Is this what you're looking for?

My wife and I made a trip out to see Brian on Saturday. Got my grubby little hands on the CF spoiler... it looks even better in person. I had to exercise my inner Scrooge to keep from leaving with it. Thanks again, Brian, for all the hospitality!

Yes, I am now. The combination of the RT diff mount, 1/2" crossmember spacers, and offsetting the trans mount 7/16", puts the driveshaft nearly dead straight, and the bottom of the oil pan flush with the bottom of the crossmember.

He'll never need to wash it.

. . One of the aspects of this swap I'm looking forward to is no blasted U-joints in the driveshaft. Using the BMW shaft means a Guibo up front and a CV joint in the rear. So, an adapter was built to mate the BMW CV to the Datsun pinion flange...

M powered 260Z... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/79806-rt260-m-powered/

. . The lazy mans mount... Thread with more ideas... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/72772-tips-for-installing-brake-bias-valve

The crossmember in a stock car is also centered.

Drill bit? Whats that? I build holes with files Passenger mount still needs more 'filing'

Give yourself an infraction. Me too, while you're at it

. . Motor mounts are fab'd from 10ga (.135" thick) mild steel. Still need some finishing touches and paint... A few notes... Currently using stock BMW 325 isolators. These are not known to hold up to abusive driving, so a set of aftermarket isolators will be fitted. To get drive line angles sorted, I lowered the nose of the diff. (with an RT mount, of course ) and the crossmember is shimmed down 1/2". In this position, the oil pan is flush with the bottom of the crossmember. Clearance between the pan and the rack is 1/2" at the lowest point (diver's side). If the racks radial-locating-dongle-bracket (or whatever the heck it's called) is slid to the passenger side, the full 1/2" clearance can be kept. The transmission mount was modified from the previous post. I was aware that the trans. mount was offset to the pass. side, and I was thinking that it aligned with the diff. I'm only half correct... it's offset about 1/2 the distance... 7/16" at the mount, wherarese the diff. is offset 15/16". I'll post the modified pictures next time I remove it.

We'll be here when you get back Best wishes, and thank you!

Get 'em while they're hot... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89174-hybrid-z-vinyl-stickers-for-sale-support-your-favorite-forum/

Hoov, you don't even deserve a response