RTz

Installed the whole enchilada in my Z... :mrgreen:

Just 'cuase I'm not participating doesn't mean I'm not keeping score.

Please use your shift key, spell checker, grammar checker, and punctuate To answer your question, no one on this forum has successfully made use of the C5 trans-axle. If they have, they're being very quiet.

John, I have some stuff that should work pretty well. Give me a buzz this weekend (or sooner if you need it).

That's what iBang is working on... at least a resemblance to the original.

Quick update. Been talking to iBang about making these. Just waiting on a sample design to post up.

See rule #4... 260DET is also correct... Yup, support nearly always trumps brand.

That is a very rusty R200. The mustache bar is mounted behind the rear uprights, as it should be.

PM me the username that sent it.

Amen.

I'll assume that's question. If there was a question mark at the end, I'd know for sure The shaft doesn't know the difference between up and down or side to side. So no, horizontal offset is not an issue on it's own. What matters is that the angle's are small (~2 degrees) and that they are the same. You haven't told us what car you're working on, but an S30's pinion flange is not in the center of the car. If you wanted a straight line, the engine/trans would NEED to be mounted offset to the passenger side roughly 15/16". The stock location is not in the center. In fact, it's about half that (~7/16"). That tells you, from the factory, there is a horizontal offset in the driveline. It's hard to tell by your description what is really happening. Are you saying the seal is putting wear marks in the slip yoke? A certain amount of that is normal. If that's not the case, a picture or more thorough description would help.

You mean S52?

Just fun'n.

dsommer is ~2 weeks behind his moral obligations. Shall we ban him now or later?

Moved.

Assuming the welds hold, the only strength increase will be the spider gears. The R&P and stub axles will not be helped, and quite likely be subjected to more stress depending on how you're driving. 315's all by themselves aren't going to fix your problem. In fact there isn't any one thing that will. If you want to try something cheap, remove the rear bar and droop limit the front. Again, it won't fix it, but you'll see an improvement. You can also play with droop limiting the rear, shock adjustments, alignments, etc, etc. I would be thinking about these types of things long before a welded diff.

The very definition of adolescent.

When we were campaigning the C4, the tires we were running were $750/set, and we averaged 3/4 hour of run time. Simple math says $1000/hr in tires alone.

Owen is correct. It sounds like you have bushings for the later crossmember. There is no place to use them on your early style crossmember. Advertise them in our classifieds. Someone will soak them up. Heck, if the price is right, I may buy them from you. Edit-- Here is a picture of the later style. Ignore the studs, it was modified for a different trans. You can see where the bushings would go.

Thread moved and re-titled.

Yes.

A WBO2 has a built-in air pump. It pumps O2 to keep the sensor at stoich. It's this volume of air, accurately metered, that provides the means to calculate AFR.

Tommy, I found a couple forum sources that claim the 280zx is the same range, but opposite read. One member measured his as Full=83, Empty=11.