RTz

If you measure 0 deg toe on the drivers side, and 2 degrees toe in on the pass. side, you end up with a 1 degree thrust line, right?. In my eye's, it's synonymous with saying...

It means a sort of 'ticker tape' of running information. There are myriad of way's to go about it. Googling will fill you in. I may be able to loan you a wideband O2 and logger, but it'll have to wait a bit. I'd like to see where you land with your other findings (O2's, vacuum verification, etc)

11 to 14 MPG with a mostly stock LT1 indicates there is something wrong. It needs to be fixed. At minimum, he could be short a fair bit of power. Or worse, he could be shortening the life of his engine. Post #1...

There is no punctuation/capitalization. There is no MAF (stock). How do you know the TPS is fine? How did you test the injectors? How do you know it's running rich? What do you mean "there are no vacuum"?

Yes, the latter. Agreed, thrust is a principle factor in square. Our car started life square, but handling wasn't balanced. There's only so much that can be done in stock, so one of the compromises made was adding thrust (ie, asymmetric toe).

Or 'corrects' it. Our C4 in SS wouldn't balance the same left to right. The key was running less toe on the driver side and more on the pass side. I concede it's apples & peaches to an S30. I would also say, depending on suspension design and use, it may be beneficial to run asymmetrical toe. That's what I mean by thrust. It's easier for simple minds to grasp Absolutely.

Possibly food for thought, a close friend fab'd a set of toe bars for his M...

I've been using strings for years. Not glamorous, but it's as accurate as the effort spent. Take your time, and you'll get consistent numbers.

Thrust is toe. Toe expressed per side, instead of total.

Pete, The diff won't move much but the engine/trans will. I always shoot for 1/2". Done many cars, never had an issue. Could probably get away with 3/8". A friend of mine had about 1/8" in an S130. Cracked two tail-shaft housings at the main seal before he figured it out

Karl, The closer the throttle plate is to the intake valve, the greater potential for throttle response. The opposite is also true. Probably few 'sensitive' people would notice the difference between stock and what you have, though.

So BRAAP, how's that single-plane acquisition coming?

I've got a 13-ish lb stock flywheel (lightened by BRAAP a few vintages back). A little weathered, but serviceable. $75+ship.

Nope, 3 gal. is plenty. The only time I've seen this type of behavior is a plugged tank. Here's a recent example... Notice the circled areas. No water coming from the fuel supply nipple. In this case, the owner had the tank cleaned and coated. The coating failed and clogged up the pick up tube.

Street car: 3M rattle can undercoat Race car: paint

The clutch has nothing to do with starting the car. I don't see a problem? Please use descriptive subject titles.

I assume you're talking about a factory turbo ECU? If so, there is no water temp sensor, the TPS does more than you suggest, and a CAS sensor is mandatory.

If I could post a very fake, insincere laugh, I would.

Anyone have this book? Is it worth $30? http://www.megadawn.com/aero.htm

Stock what? L24E? L28E? L28ET? Common injector calculators will tell you... L28E injectors, @ 40psi, will run 80% duty cycle at around 150hp, L28ET injectors will run 80% duty around 210hp. In practice, we usually get a bit more out of them. Many people run a lot closer to the edge. Only you can decide how reasonable that is. Have to? Nope. It would be wise to do something though. Picking up an air pocket under boost is bad. Very bad. There are many choices. Spend some time searching for "surge tank" or "swirl pot". Lots of good info on this forum. There is LOTS to know about turbocharged engines and related components. For some, it's a life long study. There are no 'get smart quick' books (or forums). Read. Read. Read. Read everything you can get your hands on. I'd guess they're speaking mostly of aftermarket cams. Last I checked, they had nothing for the hydraulic head. So, if you want a different cam, a mechanical head is probably going to be your best bet. Better yet, ask THEM what they mean by "wider range of parts". If that's exactly what they said, they are dead wrong. The purpose of the air reg. is to provide a fast idle when the engine is cold. Once warm, the air reg. does absolutely nothing. They can be bypassed very easily. The consequence is a cold idle problem. There is much discussion on this forum about all your questions. It takes time to learn the answers. There is no shortcut. Search and read. Search and read.

Definitely. 14mpg is pointing to a problem. I'll echo deja's suggestions. Also, what kind of shape are the O2's? Do you know that you're not running in limp home mode? All tune-up related items addressed? Have you done a leakdown on your motor? How are you measuring your mileage (ie odometer correct, etc)?

For what it's worth, we have one Schneider cam in the shop and it's lugged.

With only 56k on the clock, you may be able to sell the motor/transaxle for enough to swap in a mild Small Block. You can stay as long as you loan it to one of the staff every now and then

Yes. As long as it's the earlier dual reservoir 280zx master.