RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Because all your recent posts are in Non-Tech or Classified section. Those don't count.
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which few wires would i be connecting to the stock harness?
Like any project, you need tools to do the job. Tools also include information (schematics, for example). Additionally, projects require at least some understanding of what needs to be done. If you're going to retrofit an EFI system, you need to know the basics, at minimum. If you do not understand the basics, put the tools away and start reading.
I dont mind reading.It's time to get serious about that statement. You've been given a hint on where to start. Here's another... the stock ('75) EFI system is more primitive, but still functions very similarly. Spend some time with the EFI Bible (search). When you get a grip on the sub-systems, and how they're wired, you'll have a foundation to help you understand the SR's sub-systems. You'll find they are alike in many way's. More importantly, you'll gain an understanding. This will help you integrate the new with the old, increase your odds of a trouble free installation, help you with future modifications, and help with future troubleshooting. You won't regret the investment.
Don't misunderstand, we don't mind answering specific questions, but we're not going to install it for you. We would rather you learn how to fish, than to give you a fish.
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Is there anything around that is more n00b friendly?
There are only a few wires you'll connect into the stock harness.
The Haynes manuals have fair schematics (small but usable).
The factory service manuals are quite good.
Page 20 of the EFI bible would probably suffice.
There is enough info posted on this forum to figure it out.
Choose your flavor.
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What I did was install a spacer over the main rod that pushed the adjustment nut towards the back which helps to maximize the total movement of the caliper.
I do the same thing with the 280zx conversion. -
DO NOT bump threads every 15 minutes.
TEP is reputable.
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As I mentioned, Bart was getting tired. The engine was burning unreasonable volumes of oil, water pump and starter expiring, radiator not keeping up on warmer day's, etc, etc. It was time. Time to sell it, or get busy. My wife and I settled on the latter.
Penciling out my options, it was looking like an SR swap would cost roughly 10-20% more than freshening the L-series. So I ping an old comrade, Michael Spreadbury, to let him know I may be in the market. Michael is known for his impeccable Roadster work, including importing and retrofitting SR's. It turns out he had a solid lead on a local motor...
Originally sold to Neal Bibbler, and installed in a 510. Neal had an... um.... unplanned excursion, ending the life of his Dime. Therein lies the beauty... this drivetrain was previously installed in a 510, so it included some relevant 'extras'. The list was hard to ignore...
Harness, ECU, sensor's, et all.
Complete SS exhaust system (2 1/2" with Borla muffler)
McKinney Motorsports top-mount exhaust manifold and associated plumbing
Intercooler w/complete custom plumbing
Greddy oil pan
New ACT clutch
Under 20K miles & Michael's word that its one of the nicest running SR's he's ever imported.
A deal was struck with Neal, and four weeks of spare time later...
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Started a Members Projects page... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145417
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Gotta get some history out of the way...
My first 510 exposure was retro-fitting a VG30DE into Dave & Sara Lum's Dime (1999-ish). Went for a ride in Gary Savage's VG30ET car (aka Strutless Wonder). Later, Dave convinced me to add a pair of turbo's to his 510, netting a tick under 400hp @ 2500lbs. Somewhere in the mix, took a spin in Kelvin Dietz breathtakingly clean VG30E powered car... A/C, power windows, et all.
It would be an understatement to suggest I had no clue what a stock 510 was like. I decided to find out.
I latched on to this '72 two door at the Canby Datsun meet in May, 2005 with 119K original miles. No test drive, just a verbal agreement...
Purchased from Jason & Katie Waalkes, who purchased it from Chris Vonderchek (sp?). Originally an automatic car, converted to a dogleg 5-speed, Electronic ignition, dual carbs and a mild cam. This L16 positioned itself squarely on my list of slowest cars ever driven. I was expecting anemic when I picked it up. I was still shocked (or spoiled)
I drove it almost daily, as shown, for probably 60K miles, occasionally trading with my wife. It didn't take long to decided the stock springs were horrid. A set of ST springs were swapped in within a few months. Eventually, Bart began needing 'stuff'. So, about a year ago, I freshened up the suspension with new ball joints/bushings/shocks, along with 280zx front struts and vented brakes. MUCH improvement. Still bloody tired though.
Well, thats enough for one night. I'll sign off with a couple pics of Lum's TT Dime...
"Bart" & "Red"...
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Cameron,
MS to SS is not Gucci, but it will last as long as the rest of the system... you're not making structural welds.
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Thanks for the weight update.
I just finished up a similar swap in my 510... in our light cars, the little SR *is* fun
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Jon's correct... welding MS to SS works.
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What your lacking is passion for the project or car. Think about it . It the most important factor in completing the car because if you have the passion all the other issues are resolved.
There is a great deal of reality in this logic... in any of life's pursuits.
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It wasn't until the Datsun 510 with its 2 liter motor that it started getting raped.
I think you mean 1.6 liter.
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How much boost are you trying to maintain?
12psi
Ill have to take a peek at the dime if im out that way
You're welcome to.
Ron, my son lost interest and hasnt touched it in almost a year. I keep flashing him a wad of money in hopes of buying it off him but he wont bite.Its such a shame too, the motor is in place, it just needs everything else hooked up. Not to mention, its taking up space in my shop. I get pissed every time I think about so Ive just put the blinders on and plug away on the RB swap.Kids
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Ron,
Are you running the T25 or T28 turbo?
Hi Ken, Still the stock T25 ('98 S14 Black Top). The exhaust manny is a log style Mckinney Motorsports model, with external wastegate conversion (Tial). Post turbo is 2 1/4" expanding to 2 1/2" at around 6". 2 1/2" rest of the way, through a single Borla muffler. It's *almost* factory car quiet. At this point I'm guessing this is the choke point.
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Ive got the 2 door shell just waiting for the sr swap too.Gotta finish some other things first, but its comin..
I seem to remember you toying with an SR powered pick-up... how did that turn out?
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The L-16 had just enough power to get the 510 out of its own way, barely!
I think that's an exaggeration. It took 4 gears and 48 seconds to get to 30mph
We constantly were razzing him about his “little car that might”! He drives it everywhere, rain or shine, even 18” of snow, there goes Ron in his little putt-putt...
Pretty much. Been driving it nearly every day for 4 years. Practical? Yup. Fun? NO.
Tonight I wanted to make a “soda” run
Well, we did get soda too
This little car is transformed! Instead of having to rev the bejeezers out of the engine to get going, it just smoothly pulls up to speed, no fuss no muss. Pulls hills in 5th gear that the L-16 would struggle to hold steady RPM at WOT in 3rd!
Yup. It's no V8 but its not bashful about grunting up hills in high gear.
When playing, boost builds QUICK! Once you pass the boost threshold RPM, lag is almost non existent! Boost recovery between shifts is “right now!” Power is smooth and manageable, not explosive!
This is the best part. Boost is early, strong, and responsive. Powerband is broad and tractable.
Right now its not what our V-8 Z cars were acceleration wise, though once he gets a few of the kinks worked out, it very well could be a 12 second ride! It's easily a low 14 car right now, possibly quicker!
Just a guess, but I'm pretty certain it could sneak in a high 13 second pass as it sits. One of the 'blems' Braap is referring to is boost fall-off at high RPM. I'm loosing about 1/3 of my boost by ~6k. I'm inclined to think its the exhaust. Over the next couple weeks I'll do some pressure testing...
So far, I'm really pleased with the outcome. The SR/510 marriage seems as befitting as the SBC does the S30. A few tweeks/refinements and the package should be very respectable.
So that's where he got his motor.Actually, I bought the drivetrain from Neal Bibbler on Michael Spreadbury's recommend. Less than 25K miles and very smooth.
Oh, any pictures from either of you two?I'll post up a members project thread with some picts. Meantime, let me know if you need anything.
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i was running 12psi. it made my car go very fast, but it took forever for the turbo to spool up.
Properly tuned? Boost leaks? Compressor wheel condition? Excessive plumbing/intercooler sizing? Etc? Etc?
Oh and isnt the mn47 head too tall to fit under the hood? Youll probably need to mod the hood...No and no.
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When you go into overrun fuel cut mode, how does the stepper motor handle it? My DB gage goes to 22.4, and I was curious if the analog needle goes past 18 AFR or not.
With my Autometer EGT, I bought the wrong one (1600F instead of 1800F) and after pegging it a few times, it went T.U.
It peg's at 18. It won't hurt it.
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I'm currently using the G5 gauge. $99 delivered and couldn't be happier.
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I'd like to get rid of every emissions related item on my car, but I keep reading and finding things that lead me away from that path. The intakes on these cars are just so bloody ugly. Seeing everybody's nice, clean intakes makes me happy inside.
To clarify, the air regulator has nothing to do with emissions. It's simply a fast idle device for better starting/idling with a cold engine. It's a 'nicety'.
Sometimes the clean manifolds you speak of still retain full functionality... the parts may be hidden. The air reg. doesn't HAVE to go on top of the plenum.
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Tony, Download the EFI bible. It will help you grasp the various sub-systems.
The coolant hoses help keep the bi-metallic strip warm for a period of time after shutdown to help with warm re-starts. The valve will only be partially open instead of fully open (substantially faster idle isn't necessary in that case). It's a small refinement... a lot of folk delete the coolant lines for appearances.
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Do a search and you'll find metric ass tons of info on limited slips here. Yes, that is a technical measurement.
You should be an admin!
I do the same thing with the 280zx conversion.
More Cylinders, More Power?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted · Edited by RTz
That's not whats being said. Smaller displacement (per cyl.) could mean smaller chambers (if shooting for a specific CR target). Smaller chambers, of the same 'type', will normally be less detonation prone.