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HybridZ

RTz

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Posts posted by RTz

  1. While Bart has been fun, quite honestly, it doesn't 'drive' all that civilly. The rear of the car is squirmish and unpredictable. The 37 year old bushings aren't helping much. The front, despite the new BJ’s and poly bushings, is darty and unstable. I’ve tried various adjustment's with some results, but it's so far from where I want to be, I've resigned myself to a clean slate... sort of.

     

    BRAAP and I have been talking about swapping in the front end of an E30 BMW. We finally got around to meeting up at a JY and taking some inital measurments. Comparing the BMW layout to the 510’s structure (and SR), it was looking doable enough to take the next step, acquiring the mock-up parts. Back to the yard we went and pillaged an E30. A nearby friend donated a wagon to the cause (thanks Aaron!).

     

    Vice-griping the crossmember in rough position confirmed that this swap is close enough to take seriously.

     

     

    Crossmember & front view...

     

     

    CrossmemberA.jpg

     

     

     

    CrossmemberB.jpg

     

     

     

    FrontView.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Steering shaft is looking yummy...

     

     

    SteeringShaft.jpg

     

     

     

     

    The more challenging aspects are looking to be strut tower rework and capturing the rear inboard pick-up's (lollipop's for the BMW familiar).

     

     

    Approximate postition of the upper strut mount, netting 1.5 deg. neg. static camber and 9 degrees caster...

     

     

     

    CasterB.jpg

     

     

     

    CasterA.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Lollipop area...

     

     

    LollipopA.jpg

     

     

     

    LollipopB.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Installed in this oreintation, the geometry is very close to the original BMW E30 spec, with a bit more static camber/caster added. And the frosting?... it's looking like this contraption will fit very comfortably into the pocket between the SR's sump and bellhousing.

     

     

    There is one facet of this that I would like to see work out better. Track width. The BMW suspension, when used with as high a backspace wheel that will clear the strut (with 15x7 wheels), is about 2 3/4” wider (overall) than what I would like. I decided I would rather run flares than compromise the geometry (with a narrowed crossmember). I’m leaning towards ZG flares, like Anthony (Supra510) has done with his wagon...

     

     

    AnthonySupra1.jpg

     

     

    On the bright side, the 1st Gen. Miata's rear double-A arm suspension is only about a 1/2" wider than the E30 front, and the wheel bolt pattern is identical... 4x100. Hmmmmm.

  2. You were impling that sequential was not a major feature worth worrying about

     

    Not quite what I said. Placing a major portion of your priorities on *any* single feature may not be the wisest choice. That's a bit closer to my intentions.

     

    I was saying what is the feature that mega squirt has that would make me buy it over another ecu that has sequential.

     

    Price, support, installation complexities, consistency, reliability, compatibility, software intuitivity (is that a word?), etc, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah, etc, etc, etc, etc.

     

    My point is simply, basing a decision on *a feature or two* is not something I would recommend.

     

    If i was driving around at 100% throttle all the time then i would save money and go for a batch fire , but the reality is no one actually does that

     

     

    Point taken. Driveability is a consideration for me, as well. Everyday driveability is not limited to sequential this-or-that. Sequential may be a contributing factor but it's not *THE* contributing factor.

  3. If i already had a batch fire i wouldnt care but since i dont have anything i may as well go for the best

     

    No such thing as "the best".

     

    And, while sequential has merits, it certainly isn't the be-all-end all feature of features. Be careful with putting so many eggs in one basket.

  4. I think you are correct. a custom x member that moves the LCA inner mounts forward and inch, while leaving the steering rack in its factory position front to back would help a lot. It would also increase the wheelbase a little so you'd have to watch out for tire interference.

     

    Moving the inboard pick-up, on its own, has no effect on Ackerman. As stated earlier, moving the outboard pick-up (forward) does, providing the steering knuckle follows it (or moves even farther forward).

     

    What you're looking for is a change in angle between the steering knuckle pivot points and the tie rod pivot points. If you make a change that does not effect that angular relationship, it's not doing anything for Ackerman. Change that angle and you change Ackerman.

     

     

    Ackerman.jpg

  5. I have heard similar things. A good friend of ours has an E-30 M3, mostly essentially stock, but at 2.5L, that he recently boosted and is insanely quick. RTz I’m sure will chime in with more…

     

    Yup, Anders has done a beautiful job boosting a nearly stock S14. Internally stock save for the 2.5L bump, a little healthier intake cam, and a Cometic head gasket (CR now 8.5:1). He's nearly maxing out four 750cc injectors... you do the math.

     

    Anders is a Mid-Ohio record setter... suspension/brakes have been addressed as well. I've driven the car a few times and it's one of the most entertaining car's I've ever driven. He still heckles me for selling my M3.

     

    http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33808

  6. I'm behind on the SR updates. You'll just have to forgive :wink:

     

    An interim update for now...

     

    Probably my least favorite thing about a 510 is the instrument panel. Can't really explain it. I just don't like it (see post #1). Since completing the SR swap, I've been running around dashless, with nothing more than water temp and fuel gauge dangling from the underlying dash frame. It's gotten OLD. Very old.

     

    Different ideas have been rattling around in my head for a while, and long story short, I finally settled on a fairly simple design. It includes seven VDO Vision gauges, and an Innovate G5 AFR gauge. Plasma cut and formed from 1/8" Aluminum...

     

     

    CAD_Dash.jpg

     

     

     

    DimeDashA.jpg

     

     

     

    Much left to do... contouring/welding up the end panels, mounting, wiring, misc. switches & indicator lights, vents, finish work, etc.

     

     

    Gauges-

     

    • Speedometer
    • Tachometer
    • Boost
    • AFR
    • Water Temp.
    • EGT
    • Air Temp. (serving double duty as both ambient and post intercooler)
    • Fuel

  7. Why not just set your timing, and AFR and run in closed loop mode? Especially because you can do that at WOT.

     

     

    Because a post-calculated AFR is not the same as a pre-calculated AFR. With current technology there is some delay... the distance from the chamber to the O2 sensor, sensor response time, and the ECU's reaction time become a factor with rapid engine acceleration. On a static dyno, salt flat car, stationary engine, etc, closed-loop WOT can work well because the transition rates are either slow or non-existent. A turbo car making a blast through low gears happens too quickly for closed-loop to work properly.

     

     

    I wonder how quick tune will work on the street - without access to a dyno?

     

    Expect accelerated brake wear :wink:

  8. The Quicktune feature looks interesting....

     

    "At any time after tuning is finished the values in the target closed loop table can be changed, and the engine will automatically run the new air fuel ratio"

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