RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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OD of a 280z tube is 2.155".
I can bore those for you. $15 each.
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Jon, beat me to it
He's right... its not a very likely scenario. -
There are two slotted adjustments at the base of the distributor. If neither of those are slipping, then the gear on the quill shaft may be slipping (it's only pressed on). The only other item that comes to mind at the moment is the mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor. They can get gummy with age and it may cause inconsistent timing.
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I put Bart on a truck scale yesterday. Unfortunately I didn't realize it was a 'lo-res' scale until I got there... 50lb increments
Every other scale in OR I've tried has been 20lb. So, you get to decide for yourself the value of these numbers Full tank of fuel... 2200lbs
Me in the drivers seat (220lbs)... 1300 front, 1100 rear.
Since my weight didn't push the scale over 2400lbs, I'm assuming the car is on the low side of the 2200lb increment.
The car is fully assembled including interior with the exception of the instrument cluster/glove box removed (working on custom dash/gauges). No spare tire/jack.
That'll have to do until I get access to a better scale.
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You have a 1983 turbo dizzy there.He has a 82. 1982 turbo dizzy is easily able to rotate 180* and that is why I suggested it.
Post #1 says he has an '83. You made a technical error and I corrected it. That makes me bad?
My original reply to this thread was pretty simple and was only to aid a fellow Z owner.
Your help is appreciated, but if its incorrect information it confuses things further, yes?
RTz's reply to this and many other threads I have witnessed, is enough to make me leave this site.
Why would you leave a forum because you don't like one person? There is NO place you're going to go and like everyone. EVERY person here doesn't like someone. It's part of life.
One of our rules requests 'thick skin'. You should try it.
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The ROTOR doesn't clock 180, the quill shaft does. Better?
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BINGO
turn rotor 180* after removing dizzy and install
The rotor doesn't turn 180.
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Very off topic... and its been discussed.
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...changing thread title...
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.....at least I didnt call it a thermotine switch.
...and thank you for not doing such
As trivial as it may seem, the two terms, sensor/sender, get interchanged far too often, making it very inefficient to find that which matters to the 'searcher'.
Been there, failed that.
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Actually, that would be a sender.
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No such thing as a water temp sensor in a '72.
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Hahahahhahaha
I second that notion
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yes my dad said he did do that, so we're really confused rite now, we can't figure out the cause of this, we align everything like the book and when we go try and start the engine, it slips.
How do you know its slipping? I'm betting it's not.
Was the car running fine before the gasket swap?
Tell us *EXACTLY* how you set the cam timing.
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Now I just need to get it to handle like it runs. Always something to do, eh?
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...Well, it's been shortened more than I had remembered. The leads average about 18" long. Probably not worth what it would cost to ship to Oz. Sorry.
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I think Datsun should stick to doing what they do best and make cheap economy cars. On paper the Z looks good and even in person it's not so bad. Here is what's wrong with the car, it's a Datsun. IMO people are not going to spend $3K on a Datsun. Even if the car is a steal new (which it seems it is), most of the buying public is still going to view it as a Japanese knock-off.
I had a little fun with your quote... hope you don't mind. Your thought pattern fit Datsun nearly 40 years ago.
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I might have one for you.... heavy on the MIGHT. I'll do some checking later today.
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A few years back I did a V8 swap in an S30 specifically to see if an affordable and somewhat clean swap could be done. Not quite apples to apples, but it might help give you an idea... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118146
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Why so serious?
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I guess even superheros are becoming fuel conscious!
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Cooling/Intercooler...
This is one of my least favorite items. In fact, it bugs me so much, I don't even want to talk about it.
I used a '96 Volkswagen GTI VR6 radiator (same as the the VG30DETT listed in post #1) as well as an early (I think) Mckinny Motorsports intercooler. The short version is that everything is in the way of everything. This arrangement can be forced into submission by removing/plugging the two lower radiator passes (and a little cursing along the way helps, too). The result is a system with abrupt intercooler bends, a compromised radiator, and a cumbersome fill method. I added two Schrader valves, one on the high point of the engine, and one on the high point of the radiator. This purges the air satisfactorily, but its clearly barbaric. The intent all along has been to add a continuous bleed expansion tank. It's on the agenda... lest I get a wild hair and completely redo the whole shebang.
With a front mounted intercooler, I prefer to run a mechanical fan. A couple of agreeable surprises surfaced... an S30 fan clutch bolts on to the SR water pump, perfectly. Bolt pattern and pilot are still same as the old L-series. Cool. BUT, the S30 fan sits too far rearward. Flipping it around positions it nicely (about 5/8" from radiator), but the blades face the wrong direction. We happen to have a VG30E sitting around, and bless Nissan's little heart, they cast that fan exactly backwards. It couldn't fit any better if Nissan had planned it. Maybe they did?
So far, its been mostly cold and wet, so commenting on cooling performance is premature. I'll I can say at this point is... its 'doing fine'.
He's right... its not a very likely scenario.
Every other scale in OR I've tried has been 20lb. So, you get to decide for yourself the value of these numbers 
Craislist find.... WRONG
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