RTz

Hey Pete! I didn't know you had finished that up. Nice.

Yeah, momentary loss of brain activity.

I've done it a couple times. So has Hughdogz & KTM. Easiest way is to use the '83-'84 280zxt CAS sensor. EDIS isn't directly compatible with Wolf.

The lower the weld, the more force its exposed to. I prefer to section just below the gland nut threads.

I hear Vette's work pretty well Not sure what kind of pic you're looking for, but here are a couple... C4 5-link... C5 Double A-arm... Notice the whole cradle is 'rotated'.

All my digits are crossed. Good luck Doc!

The stock S30 yoke fits my '98 SR20DET tranny. Wouldn't surprise me if Nissan 'stayed true' with the 350z as well.

Yeah, it was an internal WG. Previous owner converted it.

Nope. Stock T25. I have nothing against it. In fact, I think it could be a nice swap. I was just trying to provide back-up for the weight.

I found John to be nearly spot on this weekend. We weighed a stock L24 and also a mildly mod'd SR20DET, including intercooler and plumbing. The L6 is about 30-35lbs heavier, but the SR trans is about 15 lbs heavier. Post #2 & #12... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246 Installed in like trim, total weight should be pretty darn close.

Happy Birthday!

SR20DET.... With aftermarket clutch, top mount exhaust manifold, external wastegate, cast pan, oil, and alternator. No water, starter, air filter, MAF, intercooler & piping... 349.8 LBS With aftermarket intercooler, complete intake piping and MAF... 365.9 LBS (Tare weight zero'd)

This forum is founded on such things. Swap info is welcome and appreciated

L16... (Datsun 510) 291.0 LBS Including alternator, oil, and fuel pump. No clutch, water, air filter, starter, or coil. (Tare weight zero'd)

Happy BDAY Slacker!!!!!!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123389

Search SR20DET

Yup. Yes, as long as you understand a couple things... 1) the ignition outputs only pull to ground, so you'll need to provide a power source on the opposite leg. You can use 12v like you suggested, providing a properly sized resistor is used. 2) The drawback to choice #1 is potential risk of the voltage regulator going belly up, sending too much voltage to the LED (and blowing it). In my case, it would be a pain to replace a popped LED. An alternate choice is to use one of the regulated outputs on the V500. There is a spare 5v and a spare 8v power source built in for such occasions. These are regulated so you're reasonably assured a stable voltage regardless of system voltage.

Let me be the first to say that I'm very pleased. The 'quietness' is a good (albeit somewhat flawed) meter. Along with the build up of cobwebs in the shed, its been a long while since any member was permanently banned. The temporary suspensions have also been reduced to a minor rate. Not bad for 16,0000 members and only a handful of active staff. My hats off to you guy's!

Nice job! I'm not far off from installing a set of VDO Visions in my Dime... you gave me something to think about.

Will any old reason do, or were you looking for a good reason?

Yes. See below. If your asking about aux. channel output amperage, the simple answer is... not enough to power a pump. Amperage breakdown per channel (yes, you can reassign ignition and injection channels to aux. duty) Injector channels.... 10.2A peek w/2A hold Ignition.... 2.2A LS1 & LS2.... 2.2A LS3.... 3A LS4 trhough LS7.... 1A All HL channels.... 1A More than enough for automotive relay's (typically ~.250A), but not enough to direct drive a pump. Yes. Or you can use one of the HL channels and pull it high. Its up to you. Here's an example... First, determine which channel you want to use and wire it to a relay. Lets use Aux LS1 Second, go to CONTROL/GENERAL PURPOSE OUTPUTS/GENERAL PURPOSE OUTPUT 1, assign a name (not mandatory, just for reference), turn the activation to "On", and select the aux. channel you wish to control. Third, go to CONTROL/GENERAL PURPOSE OUTPUTS/GENERAL PURPOSE OUTPUT 1/GPO SWITCH POINT A, select Activation By: Boost (more on that in a bit), Switch Point: 2.4 PSI, Hysteresis: 1 PSI (boost must drop 1 PSI from the switchpoint, before pump will switch off, 1.4 PSI in this case), Output Polarity: normal. This means pin is off below the set threshold and on above it. Opposite polarity would turn the pin on below the switch point, and off above it. Back to Activated By... you can activate an output based on many different things. For example... RPM, engine temp, engine run time, battery voltage, any other Aux. channel, vehicle speed, throttle position, etc, etc, etc. Hope this helps.

That is a turbo specific distributor for '82/'83 cars. Are you using a turbo harness & ECU ('82 or '83)? If you don't want canister function & fast idle during warm up. Also, If you plug 5, you'll need to plug 4 and reconfigure the valve cover vent.