RTz

Moving out of Parts Wanted...

The turbo dizzy has no mechanical or vacuum advance. You would need an ECU of sorts to regain that control, whereas the NA dizzy's have this 'feature' built in. If you want timing control use the turbo model. If not, use the NA model.

The simple version... when you turn on the HVAC fan, the air must have a place to go. No place to go=no flow.

I hope you're not holding your breath. And I have a few suggestions for you... I've read a few of your posts and they've got a bit of an edge. If that's not your intentions, you probably ought to work on it. If you have a suggestion to improve this forum, by all means, bring it forward. However, even if you have the 'idea of the year', delivering it while stomping your feet in the dirt won't get you anywhere. We have a forum called "site support". Someone of your depth will understand why I moved this thread. We've been running this forum pretty successfully for a long time. Its not perfect, but its damn good in my not so humble opinion. If you don't like it here, you may leave through the same door you came in. You're not a prisoner. If you know how do it better, feel free to start reefsz.org

OBD2 was Federally mandated in 1996. 'Some' 95's LT1's had it, but not all.

Happy Anniversary!!!!

In 18 years, I've only had two deals go bad with Datsun folk, and neither was for very much money. Not bad, in my opinion. 'Datsun people' are generally upstanding... its one of the biggest reasons I stick around.

I think you have a few things going on... Firstly, cold idle, useing the 'widget', should be higher than 8-900. By the time it closes down, there won't be enough air for a stable idle. If I set my car to cold idle ~1400, warm idle settles in nicely at 680 to 700. Secondly, the widget should not be closeing down as soon you start the engine. That will cause the valve to close prematurely in the winter. I normally set it to begin closing down at 100F water temp. I find this to be a nice compromise between winter and summer months. Chart below shows a nearly complete warm up cycle. Black trace is RPM, green is temp, and red is TPS. Ignore the orange trace. The air reg. closing is very clear (at 4:10)... Lastly, as you noted, manifold pressure is substantial when the valve is open (and changes throughout the warm up cycle). It does take some fiddling to get this 'right'. You'll need to pay close attention to the active cells during warm up if you want a 'factory like' result.

I guess I'm the oddball... 5000rpm with a 1:1 top gear, 3.54 butts, and 24 inch tires= 101mph. Factor in 15% converter slip and you're down to 86MPH. Assumptions aside, including speedo error and tacho error, I don't find it difficult to see 'this'.

Paul is correct, it wont just 'bolt on'. However, LT1 intakes can be modified to work... http://www.lt1intake.com/files/swapping.htm http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm

Its not the same block... thats why its called a Gen2.

If I read your last post correctly, this has nothing to do with an LT1, and the question your really asking is... "How do I run DIS on a Gen1 block, using LS1 coils?". There are probably 1148 ways to have DIS. Megasquirt will be one of the cheaper ways to get it. In that case, a cam sensor is not necessary. A crank sensor will be sufficient, providing you're happy with wasted spark. Google Megasquirt Sequencer and that should get you started. I haven't verified it, but it may be possible to use Megajolt with the sequencer. If so, it would save you a couple dollars if you only want ignition control. There are a number of aftermarket EMS's that will allow you to run LS type coils directly, including Wolf3D, Haltech, Motec, etc. I've even heard a strong rumor that SDS can be ordered to drive them.

Derek, Would you mind limiting the bumping to once or twice per week, please. Thanks!

Ross, Your ECU is WB ready. You'll just need an interface... LM1, LC1, or techedge will work. I'll get to your PM later.

Put the squirt guns away and get back on track.

One LAST time... It is a switch. Period.

Well this is getting out of hand now, isn't it? It is not a Thermo-time switch. The thermo-time is for the cold start injector.... L28ET's didn't come with a cold start valve, nor the switch. It is not a water temp. sensor of any kind. It has nothing to do with ECU function. It is a water temp. switch. It's part of the auxiliary injector cooling fan and auxiliary radiator fan circuit. Yasin, I spent a little time with the schematic. The switch does nothing else. You've removed the fans, so the switch no longer serves a purpose.

Suhweeeet build! I'll settle for a blame list like that any day

Hi Yasin, The early cars (pre '80) had the water temp sensor in the lower T-stat housing. In that application, the 33001 sensor Courtesy is trying to sell you would be correct. Later cars (P79/P90) have the sensor at the base of the head, at the rear of cylinder 5, passenger side. Nissan changed the name to cylinder head temp. It serves the same functional purpose as the water temp. sensor. It differs slightly from the 33001 due to being a 'dry' sensor. I don't have that part number handy, but could dig it up if you need it. Sooo, If the problem you're trying to solve is the broken wire... that is a water temp switch and, if memory serves, it runs the injector cooling fan in your application. If I get time later, I'll dig through the schematic to verify that's the only thing it runs.

I can cruise all day long at 17.

You should receive an automated notification, when the time comes.

http://www.worldcarfans.com/9080627.013/corvette-zr1-laps-nurburgring-in-7-min-26

There is no magic AFR. Read the thread below. You'll find some useful AFR tidbits buried in there. Pay particular attention to TonyD's EGT's vs AFR's. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127356 Also, TimZ is currently making over 750HP and has shared some AFR experiences. Do a member search for him, as well as JeffP, another heavy hitter with some reports on AFR's. They're pushing things a lot farther then you intend, but the trends they report have value. Actually, I would not be very contented running a nearly 2-bar car with only 8 load bands. Doesn't MS have a 12x12 table available now? If so, I'd be all over it.

No.