RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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You should receive an automated notification, when the time comes.
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At what point should I aim for richer AFRs as the boost starts to get turned up? Assuming my current fuel system keeps up, does just hitting 11.5 or so at 10-12 psi seem more like it?
There is no magic AFR. Read the thread below. You'll find some useful AFR tidbits buried in there. Pay particular attention to TonyD's EGT's vs AFR's.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127356
Also, TimZ is currently making over 750HP and has shared some AFR experiences. Do a member search for him, as well as JeffP, another heavy hitter with some reports on AFR's.
They're pushing things a lot farther then you intend, but the trends they report have value.
Do the cell selections seem OK or should I weigh things more heavily towards off-boost driving by shifing the table down and adding rows in that area?
Actually, I would not be very contented running a nearly 2-bar car with only 8 load bands. Doesn't MS have a 12x12 table available now? If so, I'd be all over it.
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Are there supposed to be washers under the main bearing cap bolts?
No.
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looks pretty safe, but I'd lean out the idle a bit, no need for a rich idle
Maybe not a need, but the old L just loves a fat idle.
The forum seems to lack any definitive information where AFR target tables are concerned,
Probably because an awful lot of it is art/preference... not absolute science.
13.8 for idle
Since you've implied a heavily stock engine, you'll probably find 'cleanest' idle between 12.8 and 13.4.
14-15 under light cruise
14 is unnecessarily rich. 15 is a fair target... slightly lean of best emmisons, and slighty rich of best economy. Dont be afraid to experiment here. Risk is low.
12.5 low/no boost
13 to 13.5 will probably provide best performance at atmospheric loads. Blend those into your peak boost. I don't tune any richer than 14 for anything other than heavy atmo loads.
11.5 under boost
With a stock L28ET @ 5/6 psi, you shouldn't NEED to run that rich. 12.5 is more than enough fuel.
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Look at this! Jeez... thats just annoying.
Fixed
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Hugh, Post 10 and 21... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122642
Dream, fix your shift key. You've been asked before. Times up.
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DOH!! I missed this... boy am I in trouble. Bad Ron.
Happy Birthday, you old fart!!!
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Doood! When you said you were off to a party today, I didn't realize it was YOURS!
Best Wishes!!!
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Thanks for sharing
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did you have to flip the cas disk with the z32 unit ?
I did flip it because I wanted to use a rising-edge trigger (Wolf3D standard recommend configuration). If you are using a falling-edge capable EMS, you might get away with right-side-up.
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So do you use both the distributor style sensor and the crank sensor?
Both vehicles pictured are using a single trigger... a modified Nissan optical CAS. Providing one additional 'window' is enough info for the EMS to run fully sequential injection and DIS. Keep in mind, different EMS's have different capabilities/limitations.
Say for a system like SDS with coil packs. Do you use the Hall sensor that is given with the system...
Use SDS stuff unless you have good reason not to. SDS doesn't care if cyl. one is TDC power stroke or TDC exhaust stroke. Its a wasted-spark/batch-fire system so any trigger beyond that it pointless (and useless).
You got any better pics of the mod's needed to fit the z32 cas.. I have a rb25det cas which im adapting to fit onto my l28et build.. Just would like to know.Sorry, I don't.
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A serving of Bondo and more shaping...
Overall shape is where I want it. Next on the list... attending to all the imperfection's.
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Someone correct me if I am wrong
this would be the same as using a turbo distributor (the one with the disc inside)????
as a trigger
If it were modified to only give 1 pulse per 720 degrees of rotation instead of 6, then yes. I'm assuming we are still talking about using it as a CAS.Now I'm confused. Terminology, perhaps? To clarify, I'm calling a trigger anything that provides positional (or RPM) information to the EMS. Be it a sync pulse, multi-tooth wheel, or even just a negative coil pick-up.
Matadem, the way I'm using the Z32 CAS is functionally identical to the way I'm using a 280zxt CAS. In my case, both can be used with no disc modifications. Or, with a simple modification (adding an additional 'slot' adjacent one of the existing slots). In the first example, the EMS knows engine position, but it doesn't know specifically where cyl 1 is. With the modification, the EMS can establish where cyl. one is. Note: I'm only implementing the 'low res' row, ignoring the 360 slot row.
As Tim suggested, it could also be used as a 'sync', working in conjunction with a crank sensor. In that case, a disc with only one slot would do the trick. It adds some complexity (requiring the use of two triggers), but it can add accuracy.
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what CAS did you use? and what yr distributer body did you use?
I'd have to do some digging, but I believe it was a '92 CAS.
I didn't use a distributor base. The I built 'swash plates' (for adjustability) and mounted it directly to the front cover. It takes a fair bit of effort... and its purely cosmetic.
When you walk up to the yellow ZX (pictured above), the CAS is fairly high and large. Its quite noticeable.
In the pic below, the Z32 CAS all but disappears...
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You are commenting on a car in primer...which may have won 'best in-work' this year. (I don't remember, anybody?)
I can confirm that.
Do you happen to have more pictures of this? I would love to see them.That's all I have.
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Per chance, why not edis? I can understand making something new, so I'm just asking with out prejudice, just curiosity.
I get the impression the OP is looking at building a batch. The problem with an EDIS wheel is the number of damper's/pulley's Nissan used. You don't have the luxury of 'one size fits all'. Not even 'two sizes fits all'.
This, in my mind, is part of the value in using the 280zxt optical trigger... its nearly a bolt-on for most L6's. From a vendors perspective, it would seem more profitable to focus on that design, offering a blank-off cap and a couple of different optical wheels (to suit various EMS). This strategy would cover 90% of the market, fairly efficiently.
I've run these to 7500 RPM with no trigger errors.
im not sure what thread i saw this in. but im almost sure someone took a cam sensor off a z32 i believe and adapted it to work with a l28 dizzy body.. would this not be the same concept? and i think the parts would be alot cheaper and more available..You may be referring to one I did. Its a very time consuming project for no mechanical gain over a 280zxt dizzy.
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...anybody that was at MSA this past year saw the mid-engined 240Z with the V6 Maxima Engine in the back...
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Now correct me if I'm wrong, TimZ, the problem with dizzy setup is the variances in the minute tolerances of the mechanics to the dizzy.
I tested this scenario a while back. The result was not as bad I had expected... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=667353&postcount=26
So setting up sequential fire would be, lets say, self defeating?
Sequential is way more forgiving then that.
Without a doubt, crank trigger with a cam reference is one of the most accurate timing methods we can can easily achieve, but its not perfect. No engines crank is perfectly rigid and any flex will lead to some timing error... our long L cranks are no exception.
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If you're willing to go as far as aftermarket EFI, DIS becomes viable.
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Can we stop playing the HP guessing game, puhleeeze? Its totally meaningless. So much more goes on in making power than a list of parts that its completely laughable to assign a number. We've all seen motors with nothing but massaged stock parts make really impressive numbers... and ridiculously expensive motors fall totally flat.
Any more 'guesses' will be deleted.
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Strangely, that's how I feel sometimes
MS AFR Targets - opinion please
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I can cruise all day long at 17.