RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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One of the critical elements of the plug is the TB interface. A bonded aluminum flange is the plan (a proper bond will shred the CF before the adhesive fails). Dimensionally, I have some wiggle room in machining the flange to final diameter. But, the plenum needs to be ROUND for the adhesive to work correctly. An easy way to get it close was to remove the backside of a hole-saw, and power by hand...
Its not *exact*, but its close enough to finalize during the finishing steps.
Blended in the new inlet...
About another hour or two of roughing in and it will be time to start the finishing stages.
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I not so sure he is offering this unit...cant find it on his website???
PM him.
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Greetings,
I will like to know if anyone here has/had any experience with Electrical Power Steering (EPS), some of the new cars already have then installed i.e. Acura NXS, Honda S2000, Toyota Prius, etc... The little that I know is that EPS provides power assist even when the engine is stop (I assume that the ignition key has to be in the 'on' to avoid steering locked and to sent electrical power). It also improves fuel economy due to it is lightweight. The DC motor consumes energy only when power assist is require, along with that EPS is powered by a 12V motor and is not dependent on the engine for its power source, so the steering feel is not affected when the engine is shut OFF.
There is a member here that has perhaps, a Z ready kit for sale on his web site, out of his company respect I rather not advertise his name, since I just will like to know if anyone know, or driven a car with the such.
Thank you,
Alex
As I understand it there are two variations. The NSX and S2000 have the assist built into the rack, whereas some of the others are built into the column.
One of our vendors is offering the latter style... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130027
P.S. Black text is easier to read
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Still unanswered is how the other FI systems handle correcting for changing altitude (my original question in this thread).
Its commonly done through a dedicated MAP sensor and interpreted through a user definable 2D map to trim the base map. Not ground breaking stuff.
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Rough shaping is going well...
Note: inlet is intentionally longer than the final piece to aid in vacuum bagging.
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After a heap of procrastination, I decided to have a go at a carbon fiber plenum...
CF has a number of attractive qualities that make it a nearly ideal candidate for manifold use. Aside from the obvious weight and thermal advantages, it has a nearly unlimited fatigue life. Fatigue resistance is one of my primary motivations as a boosted plenum is subject to significant stress. A well built CF plenum should survive many lifetimes. Add in nearly infinite shaping possibilities and an audible resonance that can't be duplicated by any other material.
Of course CF comes with its own drawbacks, mainly cost, manufacturing complexities, and a limited heat range.
Anyhow, the first step is to build a plug that mimics the final shape. A mold resembling the 'silhouette' was constructed, filled with 8lb expanding foam, and the plug extracted...
Next up, hand shaping...
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So today i got a subpoena in the mail and a letter from my insurance company that after TWO YEARS an agreement hasn't been met.
In the state of Oregon, suit must be filed within two years to avoid statute of limitations.
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Have a good one!
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One question, doesn't the water temp sensor stop workign after it gets warm?
No.
Spend some time reading the EFI bible.
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Unplug the water temp sensor and see if the car behaves the same.
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Happy BDay!
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Tony, I searched for for John Coffey's comments on a 20psi cap but found nothing. Can you post the thread?
Post 139, this thread.
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Serious envy, Raff!
Asked to take granddaughter's senior pics, humbly and nervously accepted...
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I used our handy search engine and found these...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136650
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132266
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It's certainly not Open chamber.
Both of those heads are, in fact, open chamber.
Go back to post #1 of this thread. Picture 1 illustrates an open chamber. Picture 5 illustrates a closed chamber. The semi-clean aluminum (near the bottom of the picture) is the quench area (If an appropriate piston is used).
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"It's not yours if you didn't build it."
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Got more pics?
How about a video?...
[/threadjack]
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Justin,
10's are what I see most often (F&R). I've also used 10's exclusively on my cars. Never did the math but, before installing 8's, I'd want to make sure they didn't coil bind... 6" stroke with an 8" spring sounds like a problem.
You're welcome to stop by and have a look at my car.
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Normally, when I list something, I do not expect to be compensated by paypal. I don't advertise as such and I don't want to be bothered with it. As a seller, paypal sucks. Paypal is buyer convenience. That's my opinion, like it or don't.
If you ask if paypal is an acceptable payment method (instead of just assuming so), I might accept. I might also ask you to cover the fee's. This is called negotiations. If you don't agree with my terms, either counter, or say "no thanks". There's nothing illegal or unethical about negotiating terms. It's part of life.
P.S. Petty almost always swings both way's. Funny how often people miss that part.
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Hi,
I'm 18 and just got an old 82' 280zx and its got real trouble starting. I got it servised and whatnot but a mate told me the other day that he reckons it's a faulty temperature sensor. And as a result its not injecting properly to start or something...
Does anybody have any ideas why my 280 only starts once every 15 goes?
The temp sender for the gauge has nothing to do with the temp sensor for the EFI. They are completely unrelated/independant of each other.
Thread moved to Troubleshooting, and retitled.
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...has anyone done a suicide or lambo door kit??... or if you have any pics that would be awsome.
I know nothing about this car, so don't ask
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A or B is better?
The step you speak of is to be found in nearly every production car ever produced. Its cheaper to manufacture and the power trade of is usually marginal.
Some people will tell you that the anti-reversion qualities of "A" may offset the slight penalty in high RPM flow. Some (successful) people do it intentionally.
JeffP is making well past 600 hp with, what I'm told, is about a .050" step.
Hope this helps.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but, with a step in the intake track (as described), would you not decrease the fuel/air velocity?
That's why God invented match-porting...
Scratchbuilt L6 EFI Intake Manifold
in Other Projects
Posted
Fortunately, I came to my senses and realized I was making this harder than need be. New strategy...
As round as round gets.
Where the aluminum 'cap' begins is where the CF will visually end and the TB flange begins. This will give me a short, perfectly round neck to bond to.