RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Of course... I find this after the other thread
Firstly, does anyone here run this ECU here? What do you think of it?I've installed a couple...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119783
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117607
Both cars runing DIS with 6 LSX Coils
Yes, I like it. Its a good value, in my opinion.
If you search this forum, you'll find the above and a fair bit more
Also, it is currently wired for a Mazda RX-7, how difficult would it be to modify it to work with my L28ET?
If it were me, I'd buy a new harness from Wolf.
and a MAP sensor?
It has an internal MAP. You can also run an external MAP.
Does anyone have a link with the ECU's features
Below are a couple of old brochure's. There were two models, a Base and a Plus.
Base Model...
Plus Model....
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It's a beaten dead horse. That there was any response at all was kinda suprising.
I guess we were all in a generous mood... even you
Isn't it just plain sequential that requires a secondary trigger to determine stroke? Meaning you can run multiple coils as wasted spark if there is no compression stroke verifying, as EDIS, DIS and other systems do.I had to re-read that a couple times... I see what you're getting at now. My statement was poorly written. A better way to say it... "No crank trigger alone will allow sequential injection (or sequential multi-coil ignition).". As you said, a crank trigger will suffice for wasted spark, but you'll need a cam reference to fire the coils individually. Sorry for the confusion.
I'm hoping to run a Wolf V4 3D ECUAhhh... well there is a catch. Assuming you're fueling a 6 cylinder, V4 is only capable of semi-sequential. As I mentioned, fully sequential requires one channel per cylinder. The base model V4 came with 4 injection channels, and 4 ignition channels. So, wasted spark and semi sequential it best you can do. The Plus model V4 came with two additional ignition channels. The Plus would allow sequential ignition if you're into that stuff
(Note: V500 comes with 8 of each). -
Certain crank triggers do or don't allow sequential injection so I wanted to see which would be ideal.
No crank trigger alone will allow sequential injection (or multi-coil ignition). There must be a cam reference of some type.
To my understanding, or according to my sources, there is very little difference between the two. It seems that sequential injection runs smoother on idle and possibly low-RPM operation, but at high RPM's there is little to no difference between the two, which seems understandable given how quickly valves are opening/closing and injectors are firing.
Your not far off. It is somewhat dependent on the package as a whole, but overall, the differences are usually subtle, not groundbreaking. Keep in mind, most sequential systems will also allow you to trim each cylinder independently. Depending on the application/use, this could be quite substantial (mainly with very high specific output).
Since I will be running a fully-programmable ECU, I have the option to do either.
Only if its capable. You need a channel for each cylinder. What EMS are you using?
Another interesting thing I noted (read second link under "Variation 1: Double fuel output on sequential system) is this:
"Another scheme for sequential fuel-injection is to dump in twice as much fuel during a single 360-degree
cycle of the batch-fired system. This requires using injectors that are TWICE as large and a fuel-pump that
can deliver TWICE the volume at the same pressure. With this arrangement, the difference in fuel-delivery
between the two methods is again 50%."
This means that if I run injectors and pump that are twice as large as normal (ex. 1100cc instead of 550cc), I could maximize the amount of fuel being used while the intake valves are open and reduce (or eliminate) fuel being dumped onto closed intake valves, correct? If so, that seems like a much more efficient system.
I think there is some slightly flawed logic in their presentation. I'll read it a little more closely when I get a chance.
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rockauto.com claims they can get 'em.
Dorman Part# W96878 and W96879, $32 each.
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I couldn't wait 'till 7:00 AM...
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I deleted all the crap in this thread. Let's not have a repeat.
Butters, the 280zt ECU uses only one coolant temp. sensor and it is located at the base of the head, between cylinders 5 and 6, passenger side.
...And you should expect a PM in your near future.
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Heath was *incredible*.
Best super-hero movie ever filmed... I'll be making another trip to the cinema.
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It has a MAF sensor...
Actually, it has an AFM. No MAF in a 280zx
And what is the stock boost cut on the stock ECU?
No such thing on a 280zxt. The turbo has an integral mechanical wastegate to regulate boost. The ECU doesn't even know how much boost is being generated... it simply meters the air via the AFM.
Any help would be great haveing a hard time finding out this stuff and kind of new to it!
The advice given, regarding your writing skills, is spot on. Please slow down a bit, proof read/spell check before you post, and it will make things much easier for all of us.
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garvis,
If you're inquiring to understand how this applies to MS, this thread will be nearly useless. And honestly, I'd rather not drag it off track any farther.
However, I did hear a rumor Matt Cramer with DIY Autotune is/was working on a replacement disk that WILL work with MS. Give him a shout... http://www.diyautotune.com/
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Finally getting around to posting a pic of the amended manifold, installed...
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There's no end of opinions on AC systems if you Google... everybody has their own 'right way'.
Keep in mind system pressure is subject to ambient temperatures so you'll want to watch out for that trap. Most pro-shops would prefer a full vacuum and reintroducing a known quantity of refrigerant and oil. Gauge's are a great diagnostic tool, but they don't tell you how much refrigerant is in the system, at least not directly.
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Ron Tyler test drove it and all he said when he got back was that he hated me and now he has to convert his 260-Z to power steering.
Actually, I was thinking about banning you
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Hugh answered your question.
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Have a good one!
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You should wholly be aware that whatever gets posted online is fair game for any and all criticism...
Yes Sir, you would be correct. And you should be wholly aware that that doesn't give you right to be an arrogant prig.
Let me make something clear. I value the members of this forum. I will not allow you to treat them like dirt, regardless of who's right or wrong, who does 'better' work, has the larger penis, etc, etc. In your 6 month stay with us, you've contributing absolutely nothing of value to our forum. I have no reason to believe you ever will, so why should I allow you to continue your membership with us? So you can pop in now and again and tell people everything YOU think they're doing wrong? Sorry, but you haven't earned that position.
You are welcome to share your work, your ideas, teach and learn, as long as you extend some reasonable courtesy.
This is your first and only warning. Treat these members with some respect or your membership will be terminated.
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Check the gland nut on top of the struts (the nut that holds the cartridge in the tube).
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I was thinking I should be able to get ~22-25 in town, and 30+ on the highway.
Stock Ljet can meet that goal.
Maybe trying the hard way, Which aftermarket EFI were you thinking? Megasquirt?
I didn't have a specific brand in mind, but Megasquirt will do.
Looks like Megasquirt is pulsed in banks
Yes, batch-fired.
firing the individual injectors
Yes, Sequential.
Jeep Computer will try to figure the correct mixture regardless of engine size.
I get the idea that two things are attracting you to the Mopar... Closed loop and Sequential injection.
Sequential injection will only help incrementally. Its not the end-all be-all in EFI. Don't put all your eggs in that basket. For example, there is a member here with a 280zxt, running 7.4:1 CR (not exactly ideal for MPG), getting 30 MPG (hwy) with a sequential (aftermarket) system. Here's the kicker... he's never timed his injectors to the valve events. He has no idea how far off the events may be. So, did he get lucky, or is it just not that significant?
Closed loop is the mixture trimming I believe you are referring to. Keeping it simple... this is only happening under cruise conditions and the target is 14.7:1 AFR. While 14.7 is the best compromise for emission's, it is not normally where peak MPG is going to be found. Leaner, much leaner in some cases, will usually net better MPG. One could say... the idea you're holding on to, is actually working against your goals.
Disclaimer: I've made some assumptions about the Mopar EFI based on what you've given us. If your information is wrong, then so is mine.
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So a faulty CAS actually resets the unit itself and doesn't just make the wolf default to limp mode or something?
that's kinda weird considering all the other amazing features it has. LOL
Hi Raff,
Asking for the engine to 'limp home' without a CAS is like asking for a body to 'limp home' without a heart. The CAS is the only sensor that provides engine position information to Wolf. All ignition and injection events are established by position. If that position is compromised, Wolf stops all injection and ignition events until engine position is re-confirmed. Imagine the potential consequences of injecting/igniting willy-nilly
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The Mopar Multiport EFI is more efficient than stock L28 Bosch system.
Why?
What kind of MPG are you looking for? An S30 with LJet can pretty easily get 28mpg (hwy), 30+ if you work at it.
Anyone else got anything to say? Anyone done this? looking for input here...The hurdles you must overcome to make your idea work would take more effort, and likely money, than an aftermarket EMS. And, I'm betting, less fruitful. In my opinion you're going about it the hard way.
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A bit off topic perhaps... I spoke to my local car audio chap about this and he was reasonably confident that a 35lb (pull) solenoid would do the job. They are approximately 2" in diameter and 3+" long.
Need more? He can also get a 65lb *MONSTER* at about 4" in diameter and 7+" long... probably fold the hatch in half
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Its not your dropping resistors... there are six in the pack. Not all of them are going to fail at once.
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has anyone totally removed the spare tire area, and made it flat bottom with the car?
Sure have. Many people have removed the well for one reason or another (fuel cells probably most common). I did it for exhaust.
Stock regulator, which is feed and which is return?
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Yup.