RTz

Its an M... a manual trans is a pre-requisite

I measure the S30 2+2 at around 33 1/4" and the coupe at about 29 1/4".

The new BMW M3 has been announced... 4.0 liter all aluminum V8, 420 HP at 8300 RPM, 295 ft/lbs at 3900... 85% of which is available at 2,000 rpm. According to BMW, it weighs 445 lbs, 33 lbs less than the base 3-Series' inline-six. These vid's are a little lame but there are some nice sounds and 'visual information'... http://www.bmwarchiv.de/video/bmw-m3-coupe-2007.html http://www.bmwarchiv.de/video/bmw-m3-v8-motor.html

At a members request, pictures of the rail, mounts, and injector bosses... -

The good news is that the manifold is fully welded and fits pretty well. The bad news is that the plenum warped a bit. Next plenum will be of a heavier gauge... lesson learned. Aside from having to fix my screw-up, its well on its way to being tested...

I guess I made the poor assumption that you could run the scope in series to take a current reading directly. Will you ever forgive me?

Burnouts/Foggy's are so immature. Heres a couple of mine ... Budget V8 280Z http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118146 . . . '88 M3 .

Great work Pete! This might prove useful for establishing battery voltage compensation tables more empirically. Question... what is the reasoning for measuring inductively rather than directly?

Care to re-phrase that?

Have anything to back that up?

I've done this on a number of occasions and probably will continue to do so in some instances BUT... according to this chart, some alloy's of aluminum don't play well with some alloy's of stainless. The farther apart the metals are (on the chart) the less compatible they are... The Galvanic Table Active (Anodic) Magnesium Mg alloy AZ-31B Mg alloy HK-31A Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated) Beryllium (hot pressed) Al 7072 clad on 7075 Al 2014-T3 Al 1160-H14 Al 7079-T6 Cadmium (plated) Uranium Al 218 (die cast) Al 5052-0 Al 5052-H12 Al 5456-0, H353 Al 5052-H32 Al 1100-0 Al 3003-H25 Al 6061-T6 Al A360 (die cast) Al 7075-T6 Al 6061-0 Indium Al 2014-0 Al 2024-T4 Al 5052-H16 Tin (plated) Stainless steel 430 (active) Lead Steel 1010 Iron (cast) Stainless steel 410 (active) Copper (plated, cast, or wrought) Nickel (plated) Chromium (Plated) Tantalum AM350 (active) Stainless steel 310 (active) Stainless steel 301 (active) Stainless steel 304 (active) Stainless steel 430 (active) Stainless steel 410 (active) Stainless steel 17-7PH (active) Tungsten Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr Brass, Yellow, 268 Uranium 8% Mo. Brass, Naval, 464 Yellow Brass Muntz Metal 280 Brass (plated) Nickel-silver (18% Ni) Stainless steel 316L (active) Bronze 220 Copper 110 Red Brass Stainless steel 347 (active) Molybdenum, Commercial pure Copper-nickel 715 Admiralty brass Stainless steel 202 (active) Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1) Monel 400 Stainless steel 201 (active) Carpenter 20 (active) Stainless steel 321 (active) Stainless steel 316 (active) Stainless steel 309 (active) Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive) Silicone Bronze 655 Stainless steel 304 (passive) Stainless steel 301 (passive) Stainless steel 321 (passive) Stainless steel 201 (passive) Stainless steel 286 (passive) Stainless steel 316L (passive) AM355 (active) Stainless steel 202 (passive) Carpenter 20 (passive) AM355 (passive) A286 (passive) Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed) Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged) Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal) Titanium 8Mn Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged) Titanium 75A AM350 (passive) Silver Gold Graphite Noble (Less Active, Cathodic)

Talk about deja vu... . . . . ...http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117607

I have a Bob Sharp manifold with Holley 390 mounted atop. I haven't put any real miles on the car so I couldn't say how 'good' the carb is. Make me an offer.

Possibly... its Spetember 22nd and 23rd, same location, Kliever Armory in Portland. GEARS Website... http://216.197.127.227/index.html

Very cool! Not the smallest, though. This is the smallest that I know of at 1/16th scale... . . . . Those pictures were taken 6 years ago. The last I heard it was up and running. A couple of my favorite MICE (Miniature Internal Combustion Engine)... Corvette... Offy.... . . I have a full set of blueprints for the Offy. One of these day's I'd like to get around to making some chips. Braap and I have a slew of pictures from shows we've attended. If anyone is interested, I'll dig up some more.

I don't know of anyone that has yet completed an L28 with LS1 coils. I believe both "Z-Ya" and "Chemicalblue" are both working on it... Pete triggering them with MS and Tommy triggering them with Haltec. I'm using Wolf3D to drive cousin coils from a truck (part#12558693). I prefer these due to the slightly more compact packaging and the low voltage ports originating from the 'bottom' of the coil. Allegedly, they are electrically identical. I'll be shipping one to "Z-Ya" shortly for confirmation, per this great thread by Pete... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533 No modifications to the coils are necessary with the bracket pictured below... . . . Its a snug fit to be sure, but the outcome is fairly clean... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mount's are circled in red... The heater hose is mounted to the top of the block with two clamps. Re-routing the hose frees up a secure place for the coil bracket. Long machine screws with .460" spacers behind the bracket stand it off nicely. Custom length Magnecor wires top it off. For more information about the above installation...http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119783

My opinion is that 200-215 crank HP is going to be about 'it' on an OE manifold. There may be a few that that find more, but I fully expect that a small gain in peak HP will cost a large amount of average HP. As Braap mentioned... I'm working on it I think you're on the right track. An N42 manifold's runner's are about 53% of valve area. Assuming appropriate headwork and cam, I believe the valve could flow nearly 80% of its area... choking it with a 53% runner over 7" long doesn't seem 'useful'. This is where I might disagree with you. If you're looking for 'exceptional' performance with a boosted motor then I believe that a proper intake manifold is just as important turbo as it is NA. There are a couple of folks that appear to be giving a good shout on the Lonewolf manifold. It might warrant further investigation.

Why yes, I've done this myself In all seriousness though, If a guy is already carb'd, relatively new to injection, and wants to make the transistion into EFI, I think its a viable consideration to start with ignition. Its *usually* more forgiving, less potential down time (or at least breaking it into smaller bites) and a real eye opener for the first time user.

I think that would be a classy solution if it had a normal finish. I coated it in VHT wrinkle finish as its tough and inexpensive. I'm afraid it would be to thick for engraving. Thermal circuit breakers come in a huge variety of prices (and quality). These particular models are fairly inexpensive.... under $10 each. They are what you find in the typical '80's Cessna. Aircraft Spruce is one of the more popular vendors.... http://aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/circuitbreakers.html An acquaintance of mine has one of those machines. It does work pretty well, hmmmm....

Why single? You can route two exhaust systems, or you can route two intake systems. I would much prefer the later. Different strokes, I guess. He hasn't mentioned budget, although I'm sure he has one. I say build as much displacement you can afford. All things being equal, a 383 will produce the same HP/torque on less boost AND be more responsive for its respective power. This is the best advice you've given so far, although it still hinges on a budget that he hasn't yet established. Why? The TPI manifold is FAR more restictive than its TB. Massive tourqe on a boosted TPI is nearly a given. However, you might have trouble reaching that HP goal. Any efforts I've seen to push airflow through a TPI have been futile.

I'm trying something a little different on this next Wolf installation. I wanted to avoid the fuse box route and opted to use aircraft circuit breakers instead. The housing itself is mounted in the passenger footwell, adjacent the OE fuse box. I need to label the circuit breakers and I'm interested in your thoughts/experiences/opinions on the most suitable method(s)? Pictures of the installation.... . . . . . .

Sure, I've got opinions... The effects of oversized injectors partly hinges on the resolution of the EMS. For example, MS's resolution is .1 ms. If you are running slightly lean at 1.2 ms, the next step is 1.3 ms. If injector dead time is 1ms, you just increased fuel volume by 50% (actual 'on' time went from .2ms to .3ms). If, however, you ran an EMS with resolution of say .003ms, you can now make a 1% adjustment. The general rule of thumb for injector placement is close to the valve for idle quality, fuel economy, response, and emissions, while further from the valve generally promotes more HP. Running a staged system, even if done with equal sized injectors, could give you both worlds. Sequentially fired injectors can deliver slightly more HP for their size due to the fact that there is only one dead time instead of two. I don't agree with generalizing that batch is for performance while sequential is for emissions/economy. Sequential will typically produce more power at low RPM and may have a slight advantage through the midrange. At high RPM, there usually isn't enough time to get all the fuel in before the valve shuts (unless you're running monster injectors), so its tit for tat. Another advantage of sequential that is often overlooked is that it requires that there be a dedicated channel for each injector. This in turn means (if your EMS is capable) you can trim fuel on an individual cylinder basis. No engine process's the same volume of air in every cylinder. This means, with batch fire, some cylinders may run rich, while others run lean.

Wires can be 'hidden'?!?!?! . .

Bo, There are two bosses in the block that originally hung (or is that hanged?) your heater hose. I re-routed the heater hose along the frame rail and used those bosses to support the bracket, per this picture... As a side note, my preference is to use the truck coils in this aplication due to the low voltage terminals originating from the 'bottom'. Pete, I have unconfirmed data that suggests the truck coils are electrically identical... if I send you one, would you care to test it? P.S. I like where Pete is going with this thread and would hate to jack it, so any further questions/comments about this specific arrangement would best be posted here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119783