that240guy

the car was actually hooking up pretty decently. I was launching at 2000 rpm and the car was hooking. Due to the terrible gearing that I have (3.36:1?) the car doesn't move very quickly off the line. I was doing 2.00 60' all day. The track was Fonatana.

So with the stock diff, stock suspension, 195/60/14 tires this is what I managed to eek out with a stock 2001 ls1 engine and T56. http://video.ls1tech.com/video/214f1930-3080-4c99-abeb-986b00d26789.htm

the t56 is not nearly twice the weight. The t56 that comes out of a stock 1998-2002 camaro weighs 108 lbs. The t5 weighs 75 pounds. This information is directly from Tremec's website. www.ttcautomotive.com For those who aren't versed in Mathematics, the t56 weighs a mere 33 pounds more than a WCT5 and can handle 140 more lb ft of torque. IMO the t5 should not be an option when building a fast Z. A tko would be a good option, but not a t5. But the TKO weighs 105 lbs. And btw a stock ls1 would break a WCT5 so I dunno what kind of ill-performing SBC you are talking about that makes enough power to scare your girlfriend out of driving it. My stock ls1/t56 runs 12 flat on the factory sized 195/60/14 tires and I wouldn't hesitate to hand my mom the keys to my car and she wouldn't mind driving it. It idles and runs like a dream, has a perfect 50/50 weight balance, weighs less than stock and gets 32 mpg on the highway. IMO the perfect car!

My car is a latter 260z with 280z components. I guess that would make it the 2665 lb model. I know have an ls1 t56 with a jtr aluminum radiator and no A/C. Everything else is bone stock. I am positive I lost over 100 lbs doing the conversion. I don't know what it weighed before but I had it weighed a week ago at 2420.

I am very curious to see which motor weighs more dressed as it needs to be to go into a Z with an alternator and water pump. I have an LS1 powered 260 that weighs in at 2420 lbs. Perfect 50/50 1210 on each axle. I didn't weigh the car before the swap but I am inclined to say that the car was at least 100 pounds heavier with the I6. I don't know why this thread is upsetting people. I understand that this was a crude comparison test just to show their findings.

Hey I had the exact same problem with my ls1 swap with my walbro. I actually kept clogging the pump. Since the external pump design does not have a prefilter it is very susceptable to getting clogged and getting noisy and dropping pressure. I backflushed mine using a funnel and pouring gas through the pump backward while having the polarity reversed and that cleaned it out nicely. I now have a tiny 3/8" Fram fuel filter inline between my inline pump and my tank. I have not had any problems since. I am dynoing 346 at the wheels and holding 57 psi with the corvette fuel filter/regulator.

Earl's brand in the summit catalog. They have all the stainless braided line you could ever want.

That thing looks like it was built in the early 80s back when the gaudier it was, the better it was. IMO that thing looks terrible. I wouldn't trade my bone stock 260 with ls1 for that thing.

That thing looks like it was built in the early 80s back when the gaudier it was, the better it was. IMO that thing looks terrible. I wouldn't trade my bone stock 260 with ls1 for that thing.

I have no idea what you just said.

If you want a hand let me know. I just got my datsun running with the ls1 this week and I am in LA. I would love to see your q45 diff as mine is making tons of noise.

He just put in an older opti with 50,000 miles on it. He converted to the vented design.

I work at a performance shop where 75% of our work is LT1s. I have seen many failed MSD optis. I don't think their product is superior by any means. We put Accel optis in all of our custoers cars. They seem to be working the best, next to Dynaspark. But Dynaspark is a little pricy for the average LT1 customer. The timing feature on the msd is useless as timing can be more precisely adjust for each rpm cell in the computer.

You can get those exact same seats from Kragen for 129.99. I just put them in my 260z 3 weeks ago. They are a little big, but they fit. You can't get them in cloth. I think you can get different colors though.

and when i say lash the valves, take the play out of the pushrod and then give it another 1/2 turn.

hydraulic cams are definately not done best when hot and running. All you have to do is soak the hydrualic lifters in oil for an hour or so, install them and then lash them just like grumpy said. If it is still ticking, then you can pull the valve covers and make adjustments. As for the rocker clearance, if you don't want bigger valve covers, look into a thicker gasket or you could double up cork gaskets. I have done it many times doubling up the cork gaskets. They never leak.

obd1 lt1 ecus don't store codes unless it is a continuous problem (hard fault). The opti can't throw hard faults when the engine isn't running because the computer can't check the opti during cranking or at KOEO. At this point I would put an Opti and a module in the car if you have communication with the PCM, have fuel pressure, injectors are pulsing and there are no mechanical problems. Backfiring is also an opti issue. Double check to make sure all of your Pids are normal with the koeo. Make sure coolant temp is not reading -40, make sure the tps goes through its 5 volt range, pull the map off and suck on it and see if you can get a reaction. If everything looks good, IMO replace the opti. And get a new one this time. Summit has their own brand opti now that is only 249.99. But I have a friend running the accel opti and he has a custom grind isky cam and his motor frequently sees 6800 rpm. The accel is holding up good and is only 299.99.

yeah, go with the ls1. Don't monkey around with an lt1, especially since you have 9,000 bucks to play with.

You have fuel pressure or are your injectors firing? If the check engine light is on while cranking, then your pcm is on. Also, it is normal for there to not be any live communication while cranking. I would also say optispark. Find out if your injectors are firing. If the injectors are firing, the optispark is probably okay. I say this b/c the opti controls the fuel injection timing/firing on all 94 & up lt1s. Modules can also be the culprit. The opti and module cannot be diagnosed seperately and I always replace both of them at the same time. Normally I would immediately say opti, but since the wiring harness is modified and the car died right when you turned the air on, it's probably something related to your wiring. But then again the opti is the culprit of 99% of all LT1 issues.

that looks terrible, plus it cuts cooling in half

I put one of those gaskets on friends LT1 3 weeks ago and its sweet. His car used to leak a quart every month, now it hasn't seeped a drop with that gasket.

you are going to want more than 30 pound injectors if you are shooting for 400 whp. 36 or 42 would be best. 30 lb injectors will be over 100% duty cycle at 400 hp. 42 pound injector will be just less than 80% which is ideal.

damn 3000 for the whole car is a steal. You can probably make a lot of money back on the car too. I got an entire 2002 pullout with a t56 and computer/harness for $1900. But I got lucky.

but if i keep 3 gallons of gas in the tank all the time this should be a pretty safe setup correct?

So after much consideration, do you guys think it would be alright to pull my drain plug out and just run my fuel line from there seeing how that is a half inch opening?