Doug71zt

Tannji - I'm neither 'offended' by the newness of the system or the non-conventional aspect of the installation. My point -It's very expensive for what you are getting, parts and HP wise, and it isn't efficient. Why go through all the trouble if you can get the same or more gains with intake/cam/exhaust/LS1edit? Doug

I just got a set from Ferrera - high grade stainless. They are in their catalog for the P90. They are not cheap - around $25 USD each. Search around online, you may be able to find them a bit cheaper. They are swirl polished, and look like jewelry. Word on the street is to avoid the SI (Top-end performance valves). They are apparently lower quality than a stock Nissan piece, as per Dave Rebello. Doug

That is, quite possibly, the worst turbo-charging system I have seen yet. Yes, it will increase horsepower, but don't think for a second that it is efficient or smart. $4,000 will buy you a ton of bolt-ons for the LS-1, no problem getting more than 77 hp for that kind of money. Why go through all that trouble for that level of hp increase? Also - don't believe everything you read in the mags. The system was likely a promo, at no cost. STS pays for advertisements in the mag. Do you think that they are going to isht where they eat and call it like it is - a dog? Nope. The mags are there to make money, not be objective. Doug

It all depends on the application. If you are street driving and autox, it's too big. If you are looking for big dyno #s or drag-only - go for it. It probably wouldn't make much difference driveability wise on the strip, and would probably net you a few HP. But, remember that Scottie made upwards of 500hp with a 3.8L engine with a 62mm TB. How big of piping are you going to use on the IC? 3 inch is only 75mm, and no turbo that you are going to use on a datsun has an outlet larger that 2.5" or 63mm. The flow through the cylinder head is going to limit your power more that the flow through the TB, IMO. 65-70mm would be as large as I would go on the 3.0L, but again, that is my opinion. Doug

LOL - Looks pretty close to what I'm planning on fabricating next time I'm in the same hemisphere as my car. I've ordered 6 velocity stacks from TWM, a little better looking that those jobbies. I'm also only going to use a 60mm TB on mine, 80mm for the Z is overkill. Would have some off-idle issues with a TB that big. Probably not too nice to park, roll away from the lights, etc. I can do it for a lot less than 750USD, although the stacks are $35 each. Doug

I carry rebuild kits for the clutch master and slave in my glovebox, if that gives you hints on how reliable they are. I have made it 3 years on this slave cyl, but my car sits for 6 months a year. I have a turbo flywheel and an aftermarket 240mm clutch. Does yours blow the seal in the slave? You may want to try an OEM nissan one, maybe the dimensional control/surface finish of the jobber parts isn't so good. Doug

Yes - that's possible- just ensure that the two ring gears are the same ratio. You will have to check the gear pattern and backlash after installation. Or- you could just find a 12mm R200 unit from a 300zx. Doug

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2490011598&category=6187 I guess the LD28 block will clear the hood, seems like that eliminates one problem. LD28 turbo in a 240Z, looks like stock mounting position. Doug

By coincidence, that car was at one of our Ontario Z-Car drag days a couple years ago. Quite quick and great sounding. I don't know if the chassis is certified though - I've never seen the car at the 'Legal' track in our area. Doug

Remember that the turbo flywheel and clutch was also installed in NA 280z 2+2 with the nissan tranny. You need the correct fork for your transmission, depending if you are using the Nissan NA or T5. If you check the TO bearing and sleeve, I believe that the later cars are all the same. Doug

Richard - Absolutely not. I just had an idea, when typing the post that, you would step up with the numbers. I appreciate that! I had aluminum at the wrong end of the spectrum. Doug

At the risk of getting flamed from all sides, I'm going to state my opinion. I honestly feel sorry for you guys, because you are trying to decide who is the lesser of two evils. I don't think that there is an up-side to this election. I think that the main debate is whom will cause your country the least damage. If you truly want to try and 'save' the middle east from itself -forget about installing a democratic government. Stop buying their oil! Develop Alaska - Raise CAFE and stop buying trucks to drive around the city. Kick Israel off the gravy train and let them duke it out themselves. We turn a blind eye to genocide in Africa all the time, so why not in the middle east? Remember the Kurds? I wouldn't go as far as saying that American foreign policy created this terrorist back-lash, but it certainly fans the flames and feeds the beast. Iraq was not a great threat to America when Bush 2 invaded. It certainly is now. Progress? - I don't think so. Saddam was a threat to the US administration because one of his stated goals was to unify the Middle East. The UN/US sanctions had reduced it from a prosperous country to a bunch of beggars with guns. Did Saddam deserve it? - Absolutely. Did he pay the price? - Nope, the innocent people paid the price. I went with over a 1/3 of the UN BOMVIC inspection flights - and there was nothing there to inspect. The wreckage of a country. I spend most of my life overseas, and most times not in nice places. Iraq, Sudan, China, Iran, Saudi, UAE, Bosnia, Various splinters of what used to be the USSR, Somalia, Burma. One of the things that I've learned is that there are many different cultures that just don't appreciate the Carrot and Big Stick approach to diplomacy. Tannji - Believe it or not, Ex-Russian children (Republic of Georgia), have a love/hate duality with the USSR. They are glad to be 'free', but hate the cost. Everything worked when the Russians ran the place, they had power, the elderly didn't have to choose between starvation or suicide in the winter. But, then again, they love Stalin here, even though he killed off half of their brain-trust. He's a local boy that did well for himself. It is another culture, and there is no understanding it using a western frame of reference. It's entertaining going to the bar here in Tbilisi. CIA, Titan, Dyncorp, Rangers, US Embassy people, all hanging out in this backward little no-account country. Why? - an major oil pipeline. As for the Human-Rights/saving the people from their government angle on Iraq, why hasn't Bush invaded China? Lots of human-rights abuse there. What happens when Canada becomes 'A threat to national security' due to water shortages in the west/southwest? Just replace 'Iraq' with 'Canada' in that quote. Doug

I love 'Media Experts' Uhh- I'm 100% sure a bike engine wouldn't run very long on 'jet fuel' - diesels like it though... Personally, I think Southern Minn. would be a perfect place to open up your RC51. "Seriously expensive" Mods - The high-end intercooled turbo kits for the 'Busa are more expensive than the bike. But - still cheaper than a dog-slow Harley. Doug

Might want to re-think the one piece idea, especially in stainless. You may find that your end studs get sheared off of the head after some heat cycles. SS expands quite a bit more that cast iron, and aluminum (Drax will post the different co-efficients soon) , so if it is one long piece, it will grow quite a bit. Better to cut it into smaller sections of 2 or 3 cylinders, have a look at the quality aftermarket headers and you will notice that they have expansion slots or multi-piece flanges. Best to oversize the mounting holes also, for the same reason. Happy Building! - Doug

Your original WG source has a 'Y' fitting and two ports on the turbo. I blocked off the low pressure port and just ran the high pressure (outlet side of scroll) to the MBC. It worked great and didn't boost spike noticeably. Doug

Sorry Aux - forget you're working on a beer can, not a normal motor. Is this what you are thinking about doing? http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/full/FP3065004_full.jpg That is a custom housing for DSM/GT30, likely wouldn't be near your flow requirements for the rotary. You would probably need a GT35 or GT 40 hot end, depending on power output. Your turbo is what trim on the exhaust? I'm sure that someone casts a housing for T4 wheels with an external WG mount. Somewhere...Or what about reworking a T3 stage 5 housing to fit your wheel and using an adapter plate similar to the one I run? It worked well enough for Scottie on the GNZ, if I remember correctly, he was running a big wheel in a housing like that. Just throwing out ideas.. Doug

Well, I know for a fact that a 'Busa with an intercooled GT3540R will hit 200mph in less than a quarter mile. That's at 30ish psi (540RWHP) out of 1348cc using C16. In 'street trim' w/o bars, it runs low 8s at 180. (320ish hp). We have no idea of the top end speed, but the gearing should be good to 240ish mph. Down 3 teeth on the rear and up 2 on the front sprocket. You have no idea the amount of Busa and Gixxer turbo kits this company manufactures and are out there being street driven. The US distributor will call and order 10 or 15 at a time. Mostly driven by 18-25 year olds. Latest kit - Harley Vrod, for the more well-heeled. No doubt, likely was flying a Cessna 172, I've flown helicopters faster than that tin can.

Tony - That first v-band that you posted is a dairy/food-process piping V-band. Not too good for an exhaust with that teflon oring. It's amazing what people will try to pass off on Ebay. Most turbo builders should be able to do a cast vband on their housings, most big trucks have used V-band for a long time. Cast housing to cast V-band would be the best for welding, but you can also weld stainless or mild steel to cast if you're careful and know what you're doing. Another way would be an adapter. Aluminum is not a likely choice for anything that is used on the hot side of a turbo. I used an adapter plate on my standard T3 5 bolt housing to get an external WG set-up and 3inch V-band downpipe. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-021&Category_Code=FLS I just drilled out the stock WG hole in the adapter plate and TIG'ed a 1.5" ID elbow to the plate and ran it to the external WG. I opened the WG hole in the exhaust housing to 1.5" and ported it to a V inside the housing to split the exhaust flow. It helps the flow to the WG as the airflow doesn't make an abrupt 90 deg turn in the housing. For your housing, if you are thinking welding a pipe before the turbine, I would use a heavy-wall mild steel weld-ell. But, if you ever want to change housings to a different A/R, you would have to repeat the process. I think that in your situation, I would drop the WG pipe from the stock exhaust manifold. That's a possibility for me for the new GT-series turbo I have. TimO used a spacer between the manifold and exhaust housing with a WG dump welded to it on his GT35 install. I am considering that also, for mine. There won't be any cast-iron welding involved with that method, a plus. If your housing is a GT unit, this adapter may work for you. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-028&Category_Code=FLS Hope this helps - Doug

I second Speeder's suggestion on the sub location. I have a pair of ADS S7 subs in the same location with pretty much the same installation details. Bass is quite natural, not exaggerated. Up front is BA pro 5.25 separates in the doors. They are a little hot for my tastes - but that could also be a result of the installation configuration, as the seats are quite a bit off-axis of the tweeters. (My home setup is all custom Dynaudio, which is quite smooth and laidback). Power from a pair of Soundstream D200-II's, electonic crossover 18db/octave set around 140HZ (Audio Control), all under the seats. Denon CD deck - on its last legs. I put the system in around 1993, and apart from the deck, everything is still 100%. You won't be sorry if you buy quality. I'm a bit overpowered (400WRMS), but the system has great transients, which is important for realism. I have well over 2000WRMS at home in a tri-amp setup (Bryston 7B,4B,3B) and I rarely play it loud. Hope that this helps you out, maybe a bit.. Doug

You may want to contact Ross C (Modern Motorsports). I believe he went through this when his SBC 280zx was stolen and totaled. You can search for Modern Motorsports on the site or WWW. He's a great guy, very helpful. It's a rotton situation, best of luck dealing with the insurance co. Doug

It'll true everything up until the next hack hits your lug nuts with his new 500 ft/lb impact wrench. My wife's 01 Maxima went in to Nissan for a warranty outer CV boot and came back with a major run-out problem and a toe/camber mis-adjustment.

Welcome T I use the pentagon shape (84-86) Z31 hubs on my 240. They work and offset about 19mm. In N America, we didn't many any rear-drive Nissan sedans in the 80s, the early 810/Maxima and 200sx coupe(s12). The only rear drivers in the 90's were Z32, and 240SX(S13,S14) I think the 300c is similar to the Cefiro, maybe Laurel super saloon, they are called different things everywhere. I think that you're on your own down there, check them out in the JY, measure the spindle to see if it matches up with the 240. Good luck, Doug

It's a great turbo for a GSXR1000 - the Potato, that is. 280-300 HP on C-16, intercooled. A little small for the L28 but probably just right for a street SR20. Go with a GT30R on the L28.

Cody - I've rebuilt quite a few T5's from 80's Camaros and Mustangs. I built and ran a T5 equipped S-10 Blazer for years with a 327/275 that was later swapped out for an original LT-1. I have no love for T5's. I know, I know - the WC units are much better than the first run, people keep telling me that - but I like how well made the Nissan trannys are. True, there is only so much power you can run through that size of gear, as Tim has found out, but I think that I will try the Z31 tranny first. The z31 guys are having good luck with them, and the Z31 is a pig compared to the S30. Besides, I have one sitting in the shop - so there will be no cash outlay... Speeder - Thanks for the response on the manifold. Are you modifying it already?(at the welders). A tire option for you would be to run the same slick as I bought - Hoosier QTP 26x9.5x16. You won't have any traction issues with those babies. You may, however, have tranny troubles.

I agree with you Scottie, I wish my Hoosiers were 15 inch, but they wouldn't clear my brakes then. Also, It's spooky enough with radials on the front and 12 psi in the slicks. I've learned that you don't chase the random wiggles and wallows with the steering. Not as bad as your little experience though. Jersey - I have line-lock and I have used it to launch on boost with the slicks - but that is extreme clutch abuse. You have to be a master of co-ordination to hold the engine at 5.5K, feed it a little clutch, let the LL off and floor it on the last yellow. It all happens a little fast for me, who is an amateur drag racer. It leaves like a bigblock when you get it right, that's for sure. Personally, I think that the Z rear suspension launches pretty good on slicks. Street tires are different, as I get a bit of wheel hop sometimes when it spins out of the hole. The late Z31 turbo tranny should be good to over 450 hp. It is pretty beefy and way heavier than the FS5W71B. Judging by how may T5's go to pieces, I think that even the FS5W71C Z31 NA tranny would be a better unit to use, unless you want to pump some serious $ into a WC upgrade or the like. I'm thinking of jacking a 3speed auto into the car and seeing what it will do off the line when I can boost up against the convertor. Speeder - Hope you get it together soon and put some miles on it. I'm curious what your times will be now. Nothing worse than redoing something that you have just finished with. Well, I guess a rod out the side of the block or something like that would be worse. I have come to the realization that I should have gone with a Stage V/.63 on my hybrid, especially with the 60 trim T04E compressor I have. The Stage 3/.63 would be great with a 50 trim T04E for an all-around street, autox, track turbo. But to get the big HP #'s, the Stage V is the way to go. I've gone as far as I'm going with the T3/T04E stuff. My new turbo is a GT35R with a GT 40 compressor. Same 4" inlet, 2.5" outlet, .70 T04R compressor housing as you are now running. I'm working at building a sheetmetal intake similar to yours, except with velocity stacks on the runners. How long are runners on your intake? Not looking to copy, but I think that mine will end up an inch or 2 shorter than factory. Thanks for the support guys - It will be a long wait this winter. I'm overseas right now and I won't have the car out again this fall. Doug