Doug71zt

Non-turbo early Z32 uses the same clutch as the early turbo Z31 with the BW T5. 240mm diameter. The TT uses a 250mm clutch and a different flywheel. Doug

That's wierd that the basic one is listed for early S30 and later Z31, because it certainly won't fit both. I believe that the only difference between a stock Z31 finned LSD cover and the Nismo unit is that the oil cooler fittings are drilled and tapped on the Nismo unit. They are cast in the stock ones, but not drilled or tapped. I have had both units in my hands, just not at the same time. I don't think there is any extra baffling in the ring gear area on the R200 covers, like the covers for the smaller diffs. I would go with the stock late Z31 LSD. I just looked it up on FAST and it is part number 38351-P6410, from 04/87 to end of production. Doug

If you weld everything up solid, after a couple heat cycles, everything will be out of alignment and you won't be able to get your vbands to line up if you take the WG off. Ask me how I know. The thermal stress will eventually crack the weakest point. I have a similar WG dump length on my L-series, I ended up making a double-overlap slip joint and it works well. The outlet on the WG has two concentric pipe sections, welded together at the WG flange. The downpipe has a single pipe welded to it, that is sized to slip between the two pipes on the WG flange. It was easy to make, all you need is access to a pipe-stretcher at the exhaust shop. There is enough clearance to allow some expansion, but it doesn't seem to leak at all. A short section of SS flex section will also work, kind of pricey and hard to find though. Or, you could just run a screamer pipe. Not my idea of cool though. Good luck Doug

The Z31 rear caliper is oriented at the lower rear, about 4 oclock. I believe that the S13 calipers are the ones that are regularly used. 89 to 94ish. Doug

Check here: http://carfiche.com/manuals/ for the 84 Z31 manual to download. That should help you out, information-wise. Doug

Bob - Great info for the tweakers! How did you successfully get the Z31 inner CV off of the shaft? I had no luck with this on the car we did 4.11's in, and ended up using the 200sx CV shafts, as the shafts that came in a 4.11 rear end have the inner joints swapped from the factory. Doug

Chances are that the ring gear bolts are 12mm instead of 10mm in the earlier cars. It may be a 4 pinion unit, which would be a bonus, as the spider-gears would be nearly bullet-proof. As for bolting it in, there would be no difference except for the above-mentioned input flange. Doug

Welcome to the forums - The 'Canadian' rotor is a 4-holer, but a bit larger in diameter. I would look into the 240sx rear caliper, as they are pretty common and with Modern-Motorsports mounts, they may be a bolt-up for the dime also. I know that the 240Z rear brakes would interchange with the 510, so I think that any package for the early Z will do you fine. Check out MM's website for some ideas. If you are handy, you can probably JY shop for the hardparts and make the brackets yourself. If you want to go real crazy, look at the aluminum 2 piston Z32 rear calipers with matching rotors, or possibly late Z31 vented rear rotors. You would have to re-drill the rotors to a 4 bolt pattern, but that isn't a big deal. That would be all the rear brake a dime would ever be able to use. Doug

Bearing P/Ns are the same from 70 to at least 87. I used the Z31 axle seals, they took a little gentle persuasion to get them installed. The diameter of the sealing surface seems to be a little larger dia. on the early struts. No problems or leakage, I've been running them for 3 years now. You may want to look at the newer Z31 hubs, 87 to 89, as they were designed to take a slip-on rotor like the Z32 uses instead of the earlier bolt on rotor. Not sure how much they change the off-set. Doug

You may want to look into Z31 tie rod ends. I had a quick look at a pair as they don't have the kink, and are close to the same length as the 240 ones. Doug

I just used a double slip-joint in the outlet to the downpipe. I made it on the pipe-stretcher and welded it together. It doesn't leak at all. Doug

I'm using a 38mm unit, with the 2 bolt flange. Same actuator head as that 40mm unit. It used to be known as the 38/40 hybrid, but I think that all 38mm units use that head now. The flange I am using looks similar to the one in the second picture of that ad, with the 1 inch WG hole. Mine is 3/8" waterjet cut 304 stainless, as is all the rest of the plumbing on my car. I just TIGed a elbow on the flange and ran it to my WG mounting flange. I'll have a look on some CD's to see if I can post a picture. I'm overseas right now, so not at my home computer. You may want to go to a 3" Vband adapter plate to ease the DP installation. I think that ATP turbo sells them. http://www.atpturbo.com Doug

I run at Tial 38mm with a 12 lb spring, with a mechanical boost controller on the top port. It handles my output just fine. I would recommend Tial no matter what size, due to the quality of construction, and the fact that they are quite small, and easy to fit. I am running my same old 5 bolt turbine housing, with an adapter plate on the output side to mount the WG. Works worlds better than my old (extremely) ported internal gate. I'm sorry I waited so long to go external. As for the spring pressure, 10 psi would be as low as I'd go. What would you want 6 psi for? If I want less boost, I modulate the throttle. But seriously, the WG seems to work better with a bit higher spring pressure. My $0.02 anyway. Doug

We did a 240 with the Maxima CV shafts installed. No problems at all for 4 years now. Stock CV shafts and adapters from the Max, bolted right in with stock rear control arms. Doug

Scottie - I'm interested in a kit that would cover the big bits ('noid, mist nozzle, pump, controller). I'll take care of the install-related bits myself. I would be in for at least a couple kits, possibly 4 if anyone else was interested in it at this level. I'll do some more research on the buick forums when I get a minute. Thanks Doug

Hi Bob - Rebuild shops get them apart somehow, the shaft is supposed to pull out of the inner joint. It is retained by a circlip. That said, I've never been able to separate the shaft from the inboard joint, and I've tried hard. I just worked some new grease through the joint and replaced the boot on the ones I've done. Nissan sells the inboard joint with the shaft installed, if that gives you a hint... Good luck Doug

The input splines match up, I believe that all Nissan trannys use the same spline pattern. The output shaft is quite different, much larger with a beefy yoke and Ujoint.You would have to get the flange or driveshaft from the doner vehicle. Doug

The engine has an geartrain from the free turbine. I'm trying to remember, pretty sure that the output shaft speed on the 250-C20B is 6600 rpm at 100% N2 (free turbine) speed. Been quite a while since I've worked on a Bell Jet Ranger or Hughes 500. Used in all sorts of helicopters and fixed-wings also. Makes around 420 hp in an aircraft. Jay Leno has the same engine in a bike. It would work with the power turbine direct-coupled to the driveshaft, but top speed would only be around 135 mph with direct drive. That's at 100% rated turbine speed and you wouldn't want to run it faster than that - I think that 113% is structural limit on the 250 series, meaning the the turbine comes apart. The 250 series runs fine on 1/3 non-lead gas and 2/3 diesel. It burns around 270 pounds per hour (38 gallons). Parts are not too bad, as the engine was originally designed as a disposible engine for the military. Timed-out parts are pretty cheap as are non-salvageable complete engines. A friend of mine has one in a jet-boat. If you think that this is cool - think about the unlimited hydroplanes - 2200 hp T55 Lycoming (Chinook engine) - that's some serious horsepower. Burns over 3 barrels an hour. Doug

Different ratio for the later rack as well as a different mounting. The same crossmember, just different mount bushings. I have a 280 rack in my 240. It steers a little quicker than the stock rack, but not as quick as the short steering arms. Doug

Ending soon: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944859108&category=43955 Doug

Z32 boxes are all the same internally, no differences except the case. Ratios are 3.214, 1.925, 1.302, 1.000, 0.752. I imagine that I will build a jig that lines everything up with the gearbox on its nose, and then weld the two partial bellhousings together. I index the whole works off of the input housing sleeve to ensure that it is concentric to the crankshaft. It's been done before, there is a 235RWHP slant-6 powered lightweight Dart running around these parts with a Datsun 5speed welded to the aluminum Dodge bellhousing. Funny, it also has 3 weber DCOE's on it.... Doug

I used to run 5 spoke Prime style 228 in 15x7, they were 2 piece with a spun outer rim and a machined mounting face. Quite light at that time. They may also have been sold as Elite wheels. I think that they were +4mm offset. I got mine through Dave at ArizonaZcar (about 15 years ago..)God - I've had my current Z for 15 years now. My buddy has some 15X7 Fitti's (5-spoke)coming off of his 240 this winter, upgrading to 17x7.5. They are available, but are in Ontario, Canada. Aux - That is some serious Old-School Drool. Very nice. Doug

The newer V6 trucks (Pathy, Frontier, etc) used the FS5R30A, 4 bangers used the FS5W71C. There is significant changes in gearing in the truck boxes. The first gear is lower in the truck boxes, 4.061 in 4wd, 3.580 in 2WD. The overdrives vary a bit, between .811 and .862. 2nd,3rd,4th are the same between the Z31 and 2wd trucks. 4wd have wider ratios. Supercharged trucks have a bit better synchros. Z32 trannies are the same internally between N/A and TT. The starter motor location and front case are different in order to get room for the turbos and downpipes. Joel - As for the Z32 shifter problem, I think that you can get the striking rod out of a Z31 or a truck box and get rid of the monkey-motion U-jointed shifter linkage and just go with an internal shifter. If you want me to check P/N's for the swap, let me know and I'll start that process. It may take a while....You may be able to use the rod and shifter from the RB26dett AWD box, I'm not sure, but it looks close. Where does the shifter line up on your 260 with the engine in the set-back and down position? Does the Z32 shifter sit aft of the hole?Does the cover (where a truck or Z31 shifter bolt on) line up with the shifter hole in the tunnel? Inquiring minds would like to know.... Ken - Don't use the T5 - That particular tranny is a POS. Sell it to some poor Z31 turbo sucker. The big thing for the L-series bolt-up is the bellhousing flange, and that is pretty much the only issue. I may just mill the VG flange off of the bellhousing and weld a section in from the L-series tranny. Oh, and make a big-ass driveshaft. Doug

Working on it, I'm using the late Z31 version of it(FS5R30A). The same tranny comes in the V6 trucks and something that ends in a GTS/GTR.... Doug

The 3.7 LSD was installed in all turbo Z31 (GL, GLL) after 8/87 production date. Before 4/87, no Z31 had an LSD factory installed in North America. Between 4/87 and 8/87, some auto turbo Z31 had 3.7 LSD, some didn't. Some manual tranny cars during that period have 3.7 LSD, 3.7 open or 3.54 open, depending on the P/N of the tranny installed. All Z31 Shiro (SS) had 3.7 Viscous LSD starting production in 1/88, you can use these diffs also, but you have to convert over to CV and they have specific CV shafts, not interchangable with the regular Z31 CV shafts. If you get one of the Viscous diffs, MAKE SURE to get the CV shafts, as they are worth more than the diff and the diff is useless without them. If you are JY shopping, look for the finned rear end cover and verify LSD by turning one rear wheel, if it is LSD, the other wheel will turn in the same direction. If open, the other wheel will rotate in the opposite direction. You have to hold the pinion (driveshaft) to do this test. As for other options for LSD - Quaife (mechanical LSD, best but $$$$), Torsen/Gleason (mechanical, rare, unobtainable), 240SX(S13,S14 some viscous, some clutch type, some problems with output shaft configuration - They are not bolt-in, it is a short-nose R200 diff.), Z32 300z Non-turbo R200V - same story as the 240SX units, but it also has 13mm ring gear bolts, so more work is required. All things considered, Clutch LSD is probably the most economical way to go, if you can find a JY one, all the better. Hope this clarifies things a bit Doug