Doug71zt

Hi Stony - I'd appreciate a copy Thanks Doug

That is pretty rich for the suspension bushings, I would buy the whole aftermarket Prothane kit from Rick, along with the Delrin/Aluminum Tension/Compression Rod kit (G-machine). I wouldn't use the urethane bushings on the T/C rod, as there have been some failures of the rod due to the bending stresses placed on it by the stiff bushings. As for the T5 - the 280ZX units were unique, a Mustang one won't fit without major mods to everything. I will get back to you on the PM - I'm overseas right now till mid-Jan. Doug

Fredrik - Welcome to HybridZ - I'm wondering why you posted in this thread - as that isn't a R200V diff? If you search, you will know why they are $500 used. Doug

The RH shaft needs to have the long nose with splines to engage the viscous unit in the diff. The other shafts may plug in, but you won't have an LSD. Can anyone give me the diameters of the 88SE shaft to confirm that they will work in the Z32 N/A diff? We are OK on the spline count.... Thanks Doug

Rick Scott is at Brantford Nissan, but he will ship to your door, no problem. Great guy and good service, stocks a lot of common early Z stuff. His number is 1-800-665-8458. Don't talk to anyone else in the Parts Dept but Rick about Z stuff. He also sells lots of aftermarket stuff for the Z. UAP/NAPA can still get lots of parts for the Z- Try Ideal Supply UAP/NAPA in Barrie. Charlie (Zeddfindings) is a good guy also. As for suspension bushings, Energy suspension still makes them all, any speed shop can order them for you. Just get the Part Numbers of what you want from their website catalog and call up Performance Imp. and order them. If they won't do it, drop me a PM and I'll set you up with the speed shop I use in SW Ontario. As for the struts and 5 spd. - I have a set of used KYB for the rear of a 280Z sitting here in GC. Going cheap. How many 5 Spds do you want? I have a couple spares for my car that I will be selling off in the spring, as I'm going to a heavier unit for my car. I have always kept a couple around as the teeth have been known to fall off of the gears when the car is turboed..... Doug

I measured the Z32 N/A R200V output stubs and they are 29 spline also. The major diameter of the splines is 30mm and the larger diameter of the shaft (outboard a bit) is 32 mm. Looks like the 240sx and 88SE shafts will fit. Doug

The starter is on the R/H side, same as L28. I had time to measure the 87 turbo tranny against the Z31 n/a tranny and it is approx 35 inches long, 2 or so inches longer than the n/a tranny. It is a LOT heavier tranny, center bearing carrier is totally different than earlier trannies, so looks like the bellhousing will have to be cut off and welded to a L series flange. Cheaper than the G-force T5 conversion, but more work. I've done something similar before, as there is a Plymouth Scamp running around here with a L28 5spd mated to a 225 slant. I like the looks of the integral shifter, and output shaft, u joint size. I have a hard time launching the 240 on slicks, knowing that the tranny and driveshaft are the weak links. Good thing I have a CFDF clutch to ease the power down(read - slip) Doug

We did a group buy of Norinco SKS in the mid-90's (a couple crates) - They are fun, but not very accurate. They are cheap to rock-n-roll with. I sold mine when the novelty wore off. I was left an Enfield by my grandfather, and I shoot it once in a while. My main playtoy is a .308 Model 88 lever with a bipod and 3-9 variable. Also cheap shooting. For plinking, I built up a Ruger 10-22 with a stainless bull barrel and composite stock. Nice balance now and more accurate for target with the added weight of the barrel. First gun I owned (at 12) and I won't sell it ever. I can't count the bricks of .22 that have been through it. I guess it depends on what style of plinking you what to do... Doug

I'm contemplating a set of aftermarket connecting rods for my 3.0 stroker engine that I'm getting ready to build. My HP/TQ goal is low 400s, with a 7500 redline. I'm going full-floating on the wrist pins, so the cost to rework my set of L24 rods will be around $70 a rod. Seems that a set of Carillos, Pauter, Cunninghams, etc go for around $1000 a set. Is this extra money well-spend at my projected power level? Informed opinions welcome... Anyone have a used set sitting around? - If so, shoot me an email or PM. Thanks - Doug

I'll be watching this with interest. I have all the bits sitting in my shop, just no time to even look at them. Keep us informed. Thanks - Doug

Late Z31 turbo trannies are stronger. Late 87 and newer. It is similar to the Z32 unit internally. It will bolt in to your car, make sure to get the mount, shifter and driveshaft. Should be a bit cheaper than the Z32 unit. Good luck and happy boosting. Doug

Sounds like there is too much pressure drop across the IC as the airflow increases at higher RPM. To maintain the boost pressure to the intake (compensate for the pressure loss in the IC) take your WG signal from after the IC but before the throttle body.(in the intake piping). This is probably the best compromise you can make. I take mine close to the turbo output, it is the most accurate. Doug

My old-school BAE turbo kit had a cast-iron U-bend bolted to the stock 280z manifold. It was really good at warping the flange and blowing the gasket. Eventually, I welded the two pieces together. For efficiency, I believe that the stock turbo manifold would out-perform that setup due to the proximity of the turbine inlet to the head. But, Who knows? I never tried them back to back as that manifold has a Ray-Jay flange on it instead of a Garrett T3 pattern. Doug

Just for illustration of that, I have calculated that for the 457 Dodge, each compressor requires 49hp input to provide 12 psi to that engine. Quite a bit of energy.

Yes - It will be exciting. Goal for 12psi is 800-850 hp, similar TQ #'s with a redline of 6500. Boost threshold around 2.2K, full boost 2.7K. It's almost a mid-engine car now, the firewall has been moved back and it's tube-framed up front with a full cage. The car ran in the mid 11s when it was a dual-quad tunnel ram. Street driven, of course. It's my first 4-link ford 9-inch project, so a steep learning curve there. 3.08 rear gear for 170 mph traps at redline with a 27 inch tire. Only problem is it's shaped like a brick. It is a lot closer to the road than when it came from the factory. Time will tell. Doug

I've been looking at these... http://www.burnsstainless.com/MergeCollectors/TurboCollectors/turbocollectors.html But I don't think that my L28 is worthy. Very nice header design James, is the WG flange going to come off of the 90 deg? Jeff - Great intake - did you get your air horns from TWM? I have an order in for 6 of P/N 2760-3575. Doug

If you can fit them, a pair of turbine heat shields will protect the paint on the hood. You can get Firesleeve to protect the oil supply and return lines, racer supply places should have it. If not, Aircraft Spruce and Specialty will have it. It is the orange silicone sleeveing with braided insulation inside. It slips over the lines to protect them from radiated heat. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero6.htm Good luck with your project, I'm sure it will be a barnstormer when it's done. I'm working on a 457 CI Dodge with a pair of 60-1 T04, for a mid-60's Valient. Doug

Is the water pump turning backwards? It almost sounds like the same thing as a SBC with the water pump turning backwards. Apart from that??? Too much or not enough restriction in the system? I would swap in a good old belt-driven pump to troubleshoot, if that was the major change from your old set-up. Good luck - Keep us posted Doug

If you really want to do it, consider the Z32 suspension all the way around. It certainly handled better and comes with better brakes, a heavier diff, etc. The rear is a subframe that could be mounted complete. They are relatively cheap on Ebay or the JY. Good luck - and keep us posted! Doug

Dibs on flywheel - you have a PM Doug

Sean - Can you give us a spline count of the SE halfshafts? I have a Z32 NA R200V at home that I can check to make sure. Then we can put this one to bed. One other thing about the Z32 200v - it uses 13mm bolts on the ring gear. Spacers will be required, not a big deal. Thanks - Doug

Front struts that will work are MR2 or Rabbit in the front. Stock 240 fronts in the rear. I've never heard of Z31 cartridges being used. Talk to Ground Control or Ross C(Modern Motorsports) for the lowdown. Most times when shortened struts are used, coilovers go it also, with a higher rate spring than what you are looking at. Good Luck Doug

I second Jeromio on this - Buy it. Forget all that physics crap. Forget that the people pushing it on LS1TECH are dealers for STS. Forget that it's way too expensive. If you feel that it is the right system for your needs, what does it matter what anyone on HybridZ thinks? What are you looking for - support? justification? Most people here are knocking the kit because there are better ways of doing what it does. Different isn't always better. Doug

Z31 round-flange hubs from late 86 to 89 use a slip-on rotor, different than the penta-shaped early Z31 hubs that use the bolt-on rotor. The later hubs will bolt on, haven't tried to find a deep off-set rotor to match up. I concur that there is not enough meat on the stub axle flange to drill a Chevy pattern. Search Z31 and doug71zt on this forum - you will find a bunch of stuff on Z31/Z32 brakes for the 240. I didn't use a kit. All JY and milling machine/lathe. Doug

Familiar number BR8ES - I used to run those in my Yamaha RZ-500 about 15 years ago. Square-4 twin crank 2 stroke GP500 engine. I went through a LOT of plugs street-driving that thing... I'll try a sent in the car next year. Any fouling problems during warmup? Doug