Supra510

Figure out the max backspacing using the stock hubs. I'm sure it's on the site somewhere. I have 280zx struts on my 510 and with 18's the backspacing is 4.5 inches. Plug your wheel specs into this http://www.autolounge.net/calculators/tirespacing.html That should tell you the backspacing for your wheels. Use an adapter to make up the difference. I believe adapters run 1 inch and up. I've been using them for years with no issues.

I saw this on Topspeed's website. Live your dreams.

Thanks, just got a bonus so a few new things coming. Sounds like it's working out for you. If it still needs some more persuasion and you don't have access to an air compressor, you could always used the canned air that's used to clean off computers, keyboards, etc. It's quite cold.

Get a heat gun instead of the hairdryer to make your job easier. Once it's heated up you'll be able to form it pretty easily. I've used the butt end of a screwdriver since the surface is quite hot. Once it's in the shape you want hit it with some cold air--compressed air works great, and the part will keep the shape you've formed it in to. Urethane is very resilient so if you mess up once just heat it up again and try until you get what you want.

Nice work on your project and video. Look forward to seeing more.

Title says it all. Looking for left and right front hubs for a 280zx. Thanks.

Yes. And readily available. My local auto parts store had these in stock.

My guess is fouled plugs. Had a similar issue once and ran around trying all sorts of things. It was just the plugs.

Car looks great. Nice to see it out on track.

If you wrap/cover your turbo/manifold/downpipe likely not. If not I'd wrap the vacuum line just to be safe.

Do not worry about the difficulty of welding this manifold. Long story short way back when I had a L28t in my 510 I took the manifold to a "pro" who attempted to TIG welding steel to this manifold. I think they used stainless rod for some reason. Anyway it cracked. 3 times. Finally I gave up and welded it with regular MIG wire for steel and never had an issue with cracking. This included multiple track days running 17+ psi and running at Thunderhill in over 100 degree temps. It's easy enough to weld it. Just crank your heat for adequate penetration and go to it. Nice thing is both the parts are thick so you don't have to worry about burn through. Some have recommended pre-heating. I can't comment on that as I just welded at whatever temp it was at the time. The only thing I did for prep was grinding down to bare metal as the manifold was rusty.

This is bad ass. Nice work

Again, sounds like coil bind. To check just look in between your coils and you'll see a faint line where they are touching (if they are touching).

I've used whatever paint I've wanted (Krylone etc.) on multiple valve covers and never had an issue.

Crazy effort here. Good work.

Kodiak wheels can make custom lips. Around 300 each.

Kodiak wheels can make custom lips. Around 300 each.

They look to be XXR 513's

Thanks Joe. Love that your car can perform so well in the heat. Someday I might have to go LSX myself...

Very nice.

I had a great experience with them, rear main seal leaked ruining my disc, they rebuilt the clutch for less than 1/2 of the new price which included a new disc with their upgraded friction material (mine was an older version). This was for my 7m-gte in the 510.

If I had a factory budge to replace suede whenever it went south...then I'd go with suede. But given that I don't, leather makes more sense for a daily.

Done

Suede as mentioned does get gummy and matted over time. It absorbs everthing and it's pretty much not possible to clean it well. It's has great grip and look sweet at first, but it goes bad over time. Stick with leather if you're going to drive this with any regularity. I had a Momo suede wheel but now have a Nardi Twin. Would never go back.