Supra510

Nice. No one is afraid of the curbing...

I usually stay out of these threads. However, this thread is filled with so much incorrect and inaccurate information it's beyond ridiculous. 1) Laws vary from state to state regarding what makes a vehicle a total loss. We have people from Texas, Indiana, California and New Zealand commenting on a total loss in Pennsylvania. The laws aren't the same everywhere. Most states it's a simple matter of math. If the vehicle is more expensive to repair than it is to replace less the salvage value, it is a total loss. Things vary, Nevada for instance automatically totals vehicles if the repair estimate is 65% of the ACV (actual cash value). If it meets the criteria most states have laws that require the insurance company to make the vehicle have a salvage title. This is the best I could find for your state http://www.ins.state.pa.us/ins/cwp/view.asp?a=1274&Q=546423&PM=1 Which basically says what I noted above. If it's cost prohibitive to repair (think more inexpensive to replace than repair) your vehicle it is a total loss. 2) As noted, if you think your vehicle is worth more, prove it. Older cars are a pain to find values for. Helping your a case with real comparable vehicles (similar condition) can bolster your case and get you more money. As the OP noted, this vehicle was not in good condition and had many prior issues. 600 a bit low? Maybe, but I've seen plenty of cars in similar condition on craigslist for that amount or less. The car needs doglegs, 1/4's and a hole in the framerail. How many of you would pay 600 for this car?? 3) Regarding the 60-40 split on liability. This is called comparative negligence (comp neg). Contrary to pretty much everything in this thread this is common place. It is likely in many intersection accidents that both parties did something wrong. If so it's called comp neg and you are entitled to a partial settlement. I don't know the facts of the accident, however the other party admitting liability is not the final word by any means. Neither is a police report (though it helps your case). Likely you had a recorded statement taken from you. There are a multitude of issues that can come up. An example (I speak for Oregon here), there is a specific statute noting you must be sure it's safe to enter the intersection on a green light. This means if the light turns green you can't just enter willy nilly and "hey, the other guy ran the light". You have a responsibility to make sure it's clear. If you don't you share responsibility for the accident. 4) Attorney's are very unlikely to take any case involving property damage as there is not much money to be made in these cases. There are laws in every state regarding total losses and how the value of the vehicle can be determined. Companies have to follow these laws. Are mistakes made? Of course, name an industry that's perfect and I'll call bull ♥♥♥♥. But all this "they're out to get you" and on and on is ridiculous. The job the adjuster has is to settle the claim. If they can document it they will give you more. Insurance companies use one of a few independent companies to find comparable vehicles and put together a report. They should be able to provide you with a copy which you can review. I feel the OP's pain here. Who wants their project wrecked? My first 510 wagon was in similar condition and I loved that car. But the fact is buying and fixing up an older car in not so great condition is a risk. Period. Live with it or get a different hobby. I deal with totals all the time. I would classify this as basic transportation at best. Values typically fall between 500-1000 for these types of vehicles. Re: the 60% you might be able to negotiate that a bit. You need to find out what they are claiming you did incorrectly and go from there. If the explanation is not clear ask to speak with a supervisor. Be polite and factual. Assholes get their way once in a while, but you know what? Karma's a bitch. To the OP if you have further questions feel free to PM me or ask in this thread and I'll do anything I can to help.

Nice work.

Found this link which plays with no buffering issues. It did make me wait towards the end as I had reached my free limit, but it was worth the lack of buffering issues. http://www.megavideo.com/?d=WULJWY99

Nice. I like the trim ring color as well.

Goof Off http://www.goof-off.com/ It got gum out of clothes that had gone thru a complete drier cycle so it should work for this. You can get if pretty much anywhere.

Stay .63, better for your goals. I have a .69 housing on my turbo which has the compressor housing and wheel for the GT35R turbo, but is not ball bearing. I hit 398 rwhp on 18 psi with conservative timing on my 3.0 7m-gte.

Hey thanks. I really don't think you'll have any issues with Krylon. It's pretty tough stuff. And available anywhere.

I've had Krylon olive drab paint on my cam covers for over 3 years with no issues.

Sweet car.

Nice, love the exhaust note. Looks clean in there.

Nice...

Nice work.

As mentioned by about every reply, exhaust is killing your power. That with a too big compressor and you're never reaching the efficiency range for your set up.

A radiator shop should be able to clean the tank, however not sure that's necessary. I'd probably put a new fuel filter on and check regularly if you're worried about sediment in the tank. If the filter keeps filling up, fine, pull it and have it cleaned. If not avoid the hassle.

I don't know what boost you're planning on running, but that aside consider the following. I've run an air to water on my car for 9 years (Supra 7M-GTE engine in my 510) including multiple track days at Thunderhill in temps over 100 with no detonation at 16-17 psi. I do have water injection, however I've run those boost pressures without it with no issues. Get a good heat exchanger up front and a good pump and you should be fine. Again, not saying it's perfect or better than an air to air, but it worked for me in about as demanding conditions as you can expect any street car to live with. However it does bring a new level of complexity. Many feet of hoses, a pump to buy and wire, a tank to hold the water, a heat exchanger to plumb (mine had a fan also, so wire that too). But in IMO if you're just worried about whether it can do the job, you shouldn't, just make sure you have good supporting items (pump, heat exchanger, preferable ducted properly). All that said I'm just switch to air to air but for weight complexity issues, not because it didn't intercool effectively.

Cool, thanks for the reply.

As title states I need 2 rear flares, no fronts needed. Thanks.

I've run side exhaust on my 510 wagon for years with no issues.

Echo the above. Run a properly baffled tank or a surge tank. Foam will not do what you want.

"I'm not overly concerned about "wanting more later"" Famous last words I'd error toward the larger turbo, but be careful re: your compression ratio unless you really, really think 325 rwhp is all you'll ever want. My prediction is, once you get used to 325, you'll want more. Too high compression ratio will cause you headaches down the line.

Great work.

Datsun 1200 is a bit over 1600 lbs.

Agree completely with the above comments. Neither the L28T nor the 7M-GTE are cast iron. Grind off the rust and run a good bead and you will not have problems. I've run multiple track days and thousands of miles with these MIG welded manifolds with regular steel wire with no issues and no cracking. The only issue I've ever had was when a fab shop tried to use a TIG, they used stainless filler rod, never worked. Cracked after a few minutes of the car warming up. MIG welded it myself, never a problem.

I wrapped my the manifold when I had the 280zx turbo motor in my 510 with no issues. I wrapped the stock manifold for the 7m-gte in the 510 with no issues. I wrapped the tubular weld el manifold I made for my 7m with no issues. I've run this car at many many track days and many many road trips, thousands of street miles. Exhaust wrap is not the issue. Using exhaust wrap incorrectly is the issue. Follow the directions and don't overlap too much and you shouldn't have a problem. I do remember having to overlap more than is ideal on my cast manifolds but I can't see this being an issue on material that thick.