auxilary

I bought this book, it's pretty good and simple to understand: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Photographs-Camera/dp/0817439390/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307054018&sr=8-3 definitely worth $15

Yeah, I need to get off my ass and start turning wrenches. I really need to build a rotisserie, because I have to drill and tap rear crossmember bolt holes - they're toast.

Do you need a DSLR? Lenses get expensive, and it doesn't do as good of post-processing on camera, designed to leave it up to the user to fiddle with pics later. I bought a canon t1i refurb on sale from canon direct. It was $589 for the body, 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 lens, and 55-250 f/4-5.6 lens (both with image stabilization). It was a great deal. Do I need it? probably not. it was more of a purchase to learn to shoot. My girlfriend opted for a Panasonic FZ40 camera. It's a fantastic high end point and shoot with very nice lens: http://www.dpreview.com/news/1007/10072106panasonicdmcfz40.asp If I take a pic with auto settings on my canon vs. her lumix on auto, hers will be significantly better looking (but, you shouldn't be using an SLR in full auto anyway). You can't take an LSR with you everywhere because you'll have to change out lenses most of the time (if you're not using something spiffy like 18mm-200mm, which will be expensive but cover all bases). It'll be heavy. You get the idea.

I think Tony was referring to the Kool-Aid massacre of '78 though

If you're set on building your own PC, here's a good deal for $300. This is a bare-bones kit, meaning you assemble it yourself and it's bare essentials to get you going: http://dealnews.com/Gigabyte-AMD-6-Core-2.8-GHz-Barebones-Bundle-for-300-after-rebate-10-s-h/466034.html You can get a very decent video card for not a lot of money ($65), like an nVidia GEFORCE GT440: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130612 and a DVD-RW drive for about $20-30. A Windows 7 home premium 64 bit will cost $99 from newegg. So, for under $500 you've got yourself a nice 6 core PC that'll be good for about 3 years

My system or what OP is trying to get? I am pretty sure he won't be overclocking it. core i5 is more than enough for most people to do browsing. That's what i3 is for

that looks fantastic!

Sad fact: that will actually cool it well. I built my semi-gaming rig a few months ago: antec 200 case, 5 120mm fans at 1300-1600rpm (quiet, move a lot of air), nvidia 285gtx, core i7-950 (3.06ghz OC to 3.3), 4gb 1600mhz ram. I was too cheap to get a solid state drive , they're too expensive for what they are right now, regardless of performance gains. My system runs pretty cool, and total cost was $600, including a 700 watt power supply.

Off top of my head you'll need to delete VATS (antitheft), o2 sensor, cags (skip shift. or you can just take out the whole solenoid out of the t56 and plug it up).

I would avoid ebay stores for a complete PC build. In fact, you can get a slightly slower machine, first generation core i5 for about $500. These are factory refurbished units by Dell, and carry a 1 year warranty minimum: http://dealnews.com/Refurbished-Dell-Studio-XPS-8300-desktops-from-449-free-shipping/465011.html The trick is that the deal ends today. For about $600, you can also pick up a fairly decent laptop: http://dealnews.com/Computers/PC-Computers/Laptop-Deals-49.html you can use it while sitting on the couch, toilet, bring it with you into the garage. Also, your CPU doesn't determine the surfing speed. Internet connection does As far as storage, it's dirt cheap nowadays. 2TB external drives are under $100.

I've never posted an LT1 swap list... So I'm not sure if I can point you in the right direction. I had a rotary swap in the Z, and I changed over to LS1. There's an LS1 documentation here: http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/ and also at the top of this forum in the top most sticky post. LT1 is pretty much same as SBC in terms of physical swap, so you would need the JTR mount kit for the front, and a JCI T56 transmission mount and driveshaft

Haven't worked on my car in almost a year, so I figured it was time for an update. I resolved the trans mount issue, it's mounted up and bolted up. The idiots that welded in my baddog rails did such a piss-poor job, that I need to go back with an angle grinder and clean everything out and make all seams straight and flush. I could have done a better job with my shitty mig at home. Stevie Wonder could've done a better job. It's so crappy to the point that the JCI floor mount plate flexed over it. No big deal, I am planning on putting extra bolts anyway. You can see one of the plates flexing from the pressure in the last pic. I will probably reinforce these with mounts to frame rails later on, but that's not urgent right now. Now I need to yank it all out and start prepping the car for body work. I need to redo the chassis/undercarriage because it's half stripped, half covered in original sound deadening/rust protection and oil

So, I decided to get some type of hard luggage. Downside? I have a ninja 650r, which kind of limits my options on manufacturers. So, my current options are these: sw-motech top rack - $150 + 35 for adapter plate (coocase, givi monolock or monokey, etc): pros: sturdy, bars double as passenger grab handles, meaning I can sell my grab handles for about $60 or so. Allows for use of other brands like coocase, givi, etc. the other is Givi top rack, with monokey baseplate, $135. pros: low profile, allows to keep factory grab handles. directly matched to luggage. There's a guy on a forum selling the TOP rack AND side racks for $200. normally combined cost is $305. so, the issue with the givi is that I have to obviously use givi cases only, and cases are expensive. Smallish cases cost $200. I don't really need side panniers, so I could sell the side racks for maybe $80-100. The downside is that the side racks cannot be installed without the top rack. So even if I wanted side racks only, I still need the top rack installed. Or I ghetto rig ammo cans or marine storage boxes as cheap panniers (the side rails are made for givi v35 cases, pair of which costs $500 new) I am also tempted to get the sw-motech rack and a cheap ebay top case, which I realize will probably fail soon, but $400-500 minimum for a hard luggage setup is really expensive. Bike in question pictured below, and as you can see, fabricating my own is probably not worth it due to plastics and limited mounting points. I also want to opt for hard luggage so my girlfriend can use it as a backrest. What are your thoughts?

years ago, modacar was a big time shop for import tuning in east bay. Now this may not sound like much, but last I recall, the owner had a 240z.

well, I don't think admins should delete the whole thread... but you should post a link to the PCM thread in here so in the future it'll be easier for others to find

I don't think you need to send them all the hardware except the pcm. You should have the vats (antitheft), smog 02 sensors, skip shift removed. There are a few others, I am on mobile so I can't easily look it up, but I recall this being posted before. You can also tell wait4me what you are doinh and have them make a reccomendation based on your specs

I think so too. People don't realize how many extra costs go into the Z. No one mentions $700 for JCI kit w/ driveshaft. No one realizes that headers are another 500 or so

http://jalopnik.com/nicepriceorcrackpipe/5798328

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701300629

I would avoid Troy Ermish at all costs. Speaking from personal experience, and it was very very very poor experience. There's Dando's automotive, which I would also avoid (again, personal experience).

That's odd for the program to run of a floppy. If it can run from a floppy, it can run from a hard drive.

I might have something that's about 10 years old with a build in floppy. The other option is to buy a USB floppy drive for about $30-40. here's one from newegg.com for $23: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16821118001

It's an older Zotac NM10 (?) board, I think this is it. It's been a while, I built this almost a year ago. There are much better boards out now with ion chipset for video. It has a dual core atom 1.66ghz in it, with hyperthreading: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813500046&cm_re=zotac_mini_itx-_-13-500-046-_-Product so, 2gb of ram, and it has HDMI out. That particular board supports only 720p output for HD. Again, it was the limitation back then. If I was to do it again, I would get a newer better board, obviously, which wasn't available.

I've been trying to sell my 13b-RE motor for the last 6 months, casually posting it and bumping threads once ina blue moon. I wanted to avoid shipping it as much as possible. I had tons of offers from east coast, but no one locally wanted to buy it. Several people that showed interest, as usual, flaked on it day or 2 before pickup. I had a guy contact me and tell me he would be coming out to pick it up from Florida. Apparently he works for an airline, so he flew in for free, rented a car, drove over and picked up the engine. I think the rental was a nissan sentra? I didn't pay much attention to it, but the trunk was fairly spacious. We carried the motor by hand, since it's only 150lbs or do as a shortblock. He also picked up both transmissions (3 feet long each), a pallet (not pictured), and tons of spare parts I gave him. He drove it back to the airport, and is probably in the process of crating it up right now to ship it back to florida. This almost ties the HybridZ guy that drove out from Montana to buy capt_furious's motor and we loaded it up on his semi

I built an atom Nintendo box that's my emulator/media station. It was originally fanless, but I don't trust fanless designs in small spaces, so I put an extraction fan in the case and one on the heatsink. It never overheats, and it's super quiet. Power supply is external