auxilary

Well, my friend Mat and I designed/cut it and Mat did all the welding since I don't trust my welding skills to save my life. It's about 95% complete and once I get it home I'll put finishing touches on it, like mounting holes and a cross brace that'll run alongside the radiator support to box the front end in. Total cost was $70 worth of engine stands, probably $100 worth of steel and bits, and $40 or so in casters (maybe more. Mat had them lying around and gave them to me). Measurements and design was borrowed from jrmortensen. Only took me 5 years to get around to building it. I'll probably post an update once the car's actually up in the air (in another 5 years!) Oh, and the 914 in the back is receiving a subaru wrx turbo motor

I think you guys are missing the obvious here: wife: "You have to sell that car. It's me or the car" husband: "OK, fine, I'll put it up for sale" He posts the car for 55k on ebay, it doesn't sell. "Honey, I keep trying to sell it, but no one wants to buy it!"

Years ago Jon M (Jumbo240z) helped me install 1st gen toyota MR2 seats in the Z. They're some crazy 10 way adjustable and light weight, very comfortable and grippy seats. Back then I scored a pair of them from the JY for $50.

Fantastic work!

Yeah, I did that. I put some fresh oil on it and it slipped in with a thump. I'll stick with the red ring, thanks guys.

Thanks for the reply: 1. I am missing 2 nuts anyway because LS3 windage tray has 10 mount points vs. LS1's 8, so I bought 10 new nuts at the dealer ($1.60 each) 2. The left tube is LS3, right tube is stock f-body: left tube diameter at base of taper is 21.3mm, right tube is 22.4mm. So, I guess red ring it is? 3. I already ordered an LS3 dipstick while ordering the nuts, it was $15. Thanks though!

Got my C6 oil pan, windage tray, and pickup tube. I have 3 dumb questions: 1. Are the windage tray crush nuts on LSX reusable or single use? 2. Which O-ring should I be using: the fat red one with smaller ID or the thin blue one that is closer to stock? I have an f-body LS1 and OEM o-ring that came off the stock pickup tube was blue. 3. What's the preferred dipstick setup? C6 matching dipstick?

I purchased Gates 22625 and 22625 based on research here, but I don't yet have an oem style radiator to test them out with

Thanks, now it all makes sense. Single wire hookup runs from VA controller to the compressor, activates clutch, trinary switch senses pressure in the line and sends info to PCM.

Fyi, Power brake exchange will rebuild your factory steering rack. They are local to me and quoted me 160 for a rebuild. You can ship your items to PBE ad well

Multiply 235 x 0.6, 225 x 0.7, and 215 x 0.75 to get your tire wall height in MM. Add 12.7mm to 235 tire size to comp for 14" rim. Or just use tires.Com tire size calculator

That walkaround had me at Dickbutt. I have the earlier (pictured in video) autopower rollbar in my Z. all 4 points tie to the wheel wells, not strut towers or frame rails. I doubt it will help a lot in a roll over scenario, but it makes for a fantastic rear brace to stiffer the chassis: You can see the screenshot I took from the video, both points anchor to wheel well. The original post's rollbar looks to have tie-ins to the floor boards and wheel wells, which is likely better.

Nevermind! I found one in my garage in the pile of lines I pulled from the donor Camaro years ago. The line's somewhat crushed but the pressure switch is there and can be salvaged or bought cheap on eBay (link). It looks like GM calls it the AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor)

Got it. Would you happen to have the part number for the LSX trinary switch? I'm coming up dry on searches

Thanks Richard, that makes sense. Once you mentioned the trinary switch I started doing some more searching/reading and I found this diagram which is fairly helpful at making sense. So the trinary switch is what will connect to the engine harness/PCM, and if I am reading this correctly, I can bypass the electric fan relay, fan temp switch, etc because those are all integrated into the harness. Blue wire from the trinary switch will go to the PCM hookup, and that's pretty much it. So the short version is yes, I need to get AC wiring from wiring specialties

I have some AC questions: I just received the JCI compressor and brackets. No instructions included, as usual. I will also preface this by stating that I am horrible with electrics. 1. Can someone post pictures of correct JCI mounting or a copy of instructions? I've seen several photos with various configurations and I also received 3 brackets instead of 2 that I expected: I also go SAE bolts instead of metric. I'll try calling or emailing JCI tomorrow for clarification, but it's kind of annoying. 2. I have my harness sitting at WiringSpecialties waiting for an answer whether to wire in the AC hookup. This Sanden compressor has a single wire actuator. I am planning on cobbling together a Vintage Air setup based on what I've read on HBZ. JCI says the compressor hooks up to VA and that's it. I would like the Camaro fans to be actuated by the PCM for AC, as well as miscellaneous functions like cut AC at WOT, raised idle, etc. Fans are my primary concern. How does this wire into the LS1 harness/PCM? Clutch ground activated via PCM and rest of the wiring is signal/+12v from harness/PCM to VA controls? As I mentioned before, I am horrible with electronics.

I decided to go the same route. I just scored a new (appears to be new? maybe installed once as a trial fit) C6 oil pan with a new gasket and bolts on craigslist for $200. Came with a new drain plug and low level sender as well. I ordered windage tray, pickup tube, and o-ring from www.improvedracing.com for about $80 shipped.

Awesome, thanks!

Well, yes, I understand they need to be removed for disk brakes, as it was explained earlier in the thread. I just wanted to confirm that if anyone else has come across this so that it is a possible model change and I'm not missing something silly

I picked up Wilwood 260-8794 from amazon and there are no residual pressure valves in either front or rear. I've looked through documentation on wilwood's site and they talk about installing inline pressure check valve adapters that are external to the unit. Can someone confirm if the new design eliminates pressure check valves from the MC itself, or am I just missing something really simple?

awesome build. quite motivating and i like some of your solutions that I'll probably steal for myself

Good point, thanks!

My LS1 is out of a 2002 camaro. With JCI kit, my oil pan is 3/4 to 1" below the front crossmember. Either I installed something very incorrectly or I need an LS2 oilpan from a C6 corvette

Mine have disappeared/walked off long time ago since I was young and stupid when I put on a 280z airdam and motorcycle turn signals. I think I traded my oem turn signals with cut plugs over a decade ago. I have a set of front turn signals, but I'm missing the bulb plug and wiring. If anyone has a pair they want to part with, please let me know. If you happen to have a stock 240z front valence, let me know that too!

I would be concerned about header clearance, especially on driver's side. But it would be great to be able to use it because of clearance. the corvette C6 ls2/ls3 oilpan seems to be a good compromise since it's 3/4" shallower than the Fbody oil pan. The problem is that they're $350 and up Take a look here for dimensions: https://www.improvedracing.com/tech/LS-oil-pan-dimensions.php