gearheadstik

Love it......

Go to the local auto paint store and ask..As deja said 3M and SEM make a bunch of these products that are bullet proof... High dollar but I had a rep do a demo when I worked in a body shop that showed them being stronger than welds, pulled w the frame machine and showed more psi to pull apart the glue... Most new cars like camaros and such have their panels glued on with this stuff...

Here is what I started with the tape marking my cracks and the next pic is the dash with most everything plugged up for the mold... Maybe tomorrow I will get it in primer and smoothed out. Take note you guys repairing your dashes and let me know what kinda time and money you have in it by the time your through... Hoping this will be a good option for people instead of paying the 1k plus that a dash in great shape cost....

Just a warning, The vinyl used for things like that does not stretch much and when it does, it distorts the pattern. I used to work in a auto upholstery shop... The contact glue is not a problem it sticks to most everything when used right.

don'tnt know how much they would charge, but thought about building a few fiberglass ones and sending them to someone like these guys and having them covered if you wanted to look just like the real thing.... I bet they would look perfect.. Watch the vid.

Yes, but theirs is a 240 dash... I plan on the 280z first since I dont think anyone makes them.... Not sure on price yet, good fiberglass is not cheap and a ton of time is going into the mold, it will prob be about the same as theirs... Just have to see how much it takes once mold is made. Been working on it but its pretty complex when u have to fill in all the the openings with something rigid like steel... Then the bondo anf primer work... I will try to post a pic today of what I have so far.

Sounds like a broken lock cylinder. If you don't get it going you could just drop the clam shell and unplug the ign switch then remove 2 small screws that hold it to the lock, then use a flat head screw driver to start till repaired.... Just a thought... I have one that I'm doing that with now.

My parents bought my 280z new in 78.... I was born in 80. Picture was take around 78-79.

I am trying to build a mold for the 260z 280z dashes, to be able to mold fiberglass replacement dashes. I had a really nice dash with only one small crack but have chose to sacrifice it to make a mold... Sure hope I don't regret it. I am going to do a write up when getting close to completion. You would be able to mount original gauges, heater controls, and glove box lid. I will probably then fill the glove box lid and smooth for a race dash option, then build another mold. I figure if I can accomplish this it would be a good option for everyone thinking of dash repair.

I was referin to the 3rd gen.....What truck were they in..... Durrrrrr

Not in a truck...

I saw on your other build thread that u have changed your cam and crank powers to 12v instead of the 5v first mentioned... Did you have to do anything special for this? What powers those? The relay board or are they straight to the Batt...?

Update... I just found a post saying that it was the vacuum pump switch on the other side of the tank... At least I know this now and can do some further looking into it.. Thanks

It does some... I see the one is the heater control valve or water cock as they call it is attached to the solenoid.. I wonder what the one on the other side of the tank is... it may be the pressure switch for the vacuum pump... Still does not explain why I'm not getting any vacuum to the ac control valves... It is not the line because it has no vacuum at the nipple on the tank.

I'm having ac problems with my car and first thought it was low on freon...Then realized the compressor was running and the ac line was ice cold... I have traced it down to the vacuum tank operations… there are 2 wiring harnesses on it, one is defiantly a solenoid of some kind.... Vacuum lines attach from it to the intake, ac control, heater valve, vacuum pump, and charcoal canister... I want to know what controls the electrical parts to it and can’t seem to find what I'm looking for in wiring diagrams. I can manually hook up the ac control line to the intake vacuum and the cold air works but you lose it in boost in this way... Any help would be appreciated

I have one in Alabama that is in ok shape.. It has a couple minor bends.. Is not rusty on the inside but does have some brown colored sealer or something flaking off in it... I put some acid in it when I was going to use it to verify it was not rust and you could see spots of bare metal where it had flaked off... I don’t know if they factory sealed them or what? I was going to list it on here pretty soon just have not got to it.. I have the sending unit too but it has a broke wire that I don’t know if could be repaired or not.. Open to anyone’s offers. I can make a few pics.. I ended up using fuel cell for now since it is not stock like..

I don't think those rears are worth much but I may be wrong...CLSD's are the bomb

I would see if the hole in the top was able to be threaded with a 12x1.5 to retain the stock turbo lines usage... look at this thread to see how the bolts made http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121072&highlight=holset+oil

From what your pm said, are you sure you don't have the turbo upside down? If a stock turbo is being used... The bottom will have a hole with bolt holes on each side. The top will have a single threaded hole, which a bolt goes through a loop in the like, aka banjo fitting... The bolt can be built by drilling a hole through the center 3/4 way through long ways, then drill one through the top threaded section in the other direction... It seals up with a couple brass washers. It you have a aftermarket turbo it may have a adapter needs to bolt to the top. You can find one or sometimes thread the hole to the size of a AN fitting or your feed bolt... Let me know whats up.

Are you using a stock hard line or a aftermarket? If stock you just need a modified bolt... If new like a AN fitting should work.

Did your stock Ls1 purge valve end up working ok for the Fidle?

dot sun... South Alabama

What is your vechicle? Spell check your post..hahaha

I have a syncrowave 180, also love it....

I pulled the turbo apart last night to find that it is the same as last time... The exhaust bearing is the one with most wear, looks nearly double of the compressor sides bearing... I'm thinking of sending the shaft off to be balanced again, maybe that will make a difference. If I had the machining capabilities, I would attempt to convert to a ball bearing, but not sure what work would be involved.