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gearheadstik

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Everything posted by gearheadstik

  1. You are partly right... but dont think you can put nason for dupont or a cheaper line of some of these paints and its going to hold up the same... You will see the difference over time. I have a 1950 gmc that was my first ride, that when I was 15 took the advise of my teacher and used top of the line dupont primers and paints...It has been 15 years and kept in the garage about half the time... It can be waxed or polished and nearly looks as good as the day I painted it. Have done jobs with cheaper stuff and they look great for a while but not the long haul... I have seen some sharp krylon jobs on here but you just want and some paint guy is going to charge you double one day to get all that off... Prep is everything, You could get the best paint produced and put it over crap paint or rust and it will just last a little longer than the rest... Do it right and it will last a life time.
  2. He's is lookin for stub axles....not the same thing... I have some but don't know if I want to let them go...What are they going for nowadays?
  3. I would like to see a nice persimmion red, which is what my cars was stock in 78... It has faded into a orange over the years.
  4. Put a fifth of what the end value of the car will be.... You can't put a 1k job on a car you think is going to be worth 25k.....you dont put a 2k job on a car that's not worth 5k... I have been painting and doing resto work since I was in high school and take my word you pay for what you get...
  5. My oil level had raised a qt or so after trying to start for a while...was thin as water..
  6. I'm in on a trigger mount, hub, and laser cut wheel..... Let me know when you need the funds...Thanks
  7. Fuel pressure regulator? Check the psi...Had this one happen to me, so much pressure, it was blowing fuel in my crankcase..
  8. Checking ebays completed listings is a good way to find out.
  9. This is why I removed it all... You will save time and headache in the end... Not saying it is the only way, but it makes it very easy to do the timing belt and all the seals and such...
  10. Remove the motor... I have a 88 turbo and that's what I had to do... Sorry
  11. I may be interested in the trigger and wheel mount... I also use the Chrysler coil pack.
  12. Mine is wrapped with no problems.... Gabe ask steveO about his upgraded studs... I also did that one too.
  13. Wish I could help but have no knowledge of these VE models.... I love the he351 though, I'm still using the internal WG, seems to work for me so far. Nice meeting you at the DNI.
  14. I stuck the 3in inside the DP and tig welded it...Look in my pics and you will see it on the 4th page or so.
  15. I think it is safe... I know on a heavy vech I would have a spring besides the coilover. Trailmaster makes one kinda like this, I use as a steering dampner on my lifted avalanche but has minor differences and would love to find out where these came from.
  16. I am building a little side project mud bogger and rock crawler. Need help on figuring out where to get this type of shock...It uses a clamp on base that could be slid up and down...Thanks for any help.
  17. No it's not like the SBC, there is a oil pump drive rod but is not driven by the distrib... I just installed the rod back in, only shortened and installed a freeze plug "or core plug as Braap says" in the hole.
  18. That's right, I am running a 8.5 in the 1/8 and a 13.5 in the 1/4 with almost the exact same setup...getting faster as I go though:mrgreen:...
  19. Just to throw it out there... Fiberglast.com sells 2 part poly foam mix you can pour in th a shape then sand out into shape... I have used it making speaker boxes.. and to fill boat hulls. I looked for large pieces of foam at craft stores and such with no luck... This you can mix and pour into a box as big as you need the piece and go from there... It can be covered with fiberglass resin w no effects like some foams...
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