EMWHYR0HEN

I don't remember all of this off the top of my head but i'll try my best. There are two fuse boxes. One of them is located on the 350Z driver side kick panel which is the main fuse box. I relocated this one on my top of my trans tunnel along with the BCM. The other fuse box is located in the engine compartment of the 350Z and also has a few relays on the same box. That's now located on my passenger side floor. My ecu is located on the passenger side kick panel. The ac amp is only needed if your going to be using any of the stock gauges. When you remove that many things to a newer car, of course your going to get a check engine light. However, it doesn't affect the engines performance. I basically removed EVERYTHING that I didnt need. I couldnt tell you all the exact wires but to mention a few : ABS, traction/stability control, all gauge meter wires, door wiring, headlights, radio, etc. what I did was lay all the harnesses out with a FSM by my side and pick an chose what I was going to keep (fan wiring, taillight wiring, fuel pump wiring etc) and what I was going to eliminate. double checked the plugs, colors, diagrams, and snipped away at the wires. I was more interested in weight savings so technically you dont have to cut any wires off. If your confident with wiring then you should be fine with whatever you do.

Were talking about the after market/modified arms here right?

I'm going to vouch for the OBX diff. I just recently finished installing a unit in my R200. The packaging was that off an old surplus AK-47 with oil all over place and had the same smell as my old Russian rifle. It does require a bit of cleaning/wiping but the overall exterior finish isnt bad. Mine came with 12.9 grade bolts, and was assembled the correct way. I did however, replace the thinner bellville washers with the Mcmaster carr ones. After taking the whole unit a part and putting it back together I was so shocked not only how simple this type of differential works but how easy it would be to machine/produce. I really don't know how quaife sells their units for $1,400+. IMO this unit is way too simple to be expensive. As long as the manufacturing processes are legit it's really hard to screw this up. Anyway, after torquing everything to spec and topping the carrier off with 75w90 I tried to spin one wheel and noticed there was quite a bit a pre-load with the thicker washers. Drove the car around the neighborhood a bit and it felt exactly like an open diff. I was able to make very sharp turns without feeling any scrub from the inside wheel, even tight circles no problem. Went for another spin and easily laid two fat strips down. I tried diving into a corner without braking and the car turned in just like an open diff then stomped on it mid corner and the rear pitches out as if it had a locker. This type of differential is truley awsome. I only installed the OBX unit and nothing else. I didnt notice any additional, clunking, popping, whining, or anything like that. So far it operates really smooth without a flaw.

Realistically is this even possible to avoid? This always seems to be the argument but no real solution has come up.

If you have all the wiring, or a donor car like I did you just have to re-route the wiring throughout the chassis, give it power, and ground.

wow those are impressive numbers. How is the engine idle, drive normally, etc?

Any one joining the auto-X event?

Mclaren F1 GTR, Ferrari F40 LM, Nissan R390

Not mentioned is the ease of adjustment with the A-arm. There's less bending loads on the A-arm design almost making it an entire "two force member" which can take huge amounts of load if designed properly. If we were to make by example alone almost every purpose build race car has an A-arm design.. even with all different types of suspension setups.

VQ35 Turbo 300ZX... Nice find! thats a funky looking plenum..

Before you go and move you x-member forward you need to plan out your over all setup. 7 degrees of caster will have a jacking affect on the front suspension when turning from side to side. Note: High caster angles will have a negative affect on open, gear driven, and light locking (viscous) differentials because you will tend to lift the inside rear wheel. Higher caster angle also increase road feel and steering feedback in turn also makes higher steering effort. There are also benefits but, I would much rather have an adjustable arm than be stuck with 7 degrees of caster forever.

If your going to get rid of those have you seen Justin's group buy? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140338

Have you contacted Dave at AZC?

I'll have to check for exact numbers but, I do know that the intake manifold barely touches the hood when the lower oil pan flange is level with the bottom of the cross member.

For a straight bolt on dual MC kit John's price is great. If you got a quote to custom install 2 masters you'd be surprised how much that would be. Not to mention John's kit is proven to perform, and he does fantastic work. If I had the money, and I didnt have the time I'd totally buy it.

-Brent, Every car is different having different brakes, wheels, weights, etc. therefore your going to have to choose a pair of master cylinders that work for you. Give Tilton a call and talk to their tech support guy (I think it's only one guy and he's good). Your going to need a bit of info on hand to give the Tilton rep. All rotor diameters All caliper types and piston sizes Car's center of gravity static weight on each corner pedal ratio friction coefficient of brake pads That's all I remember off the top of my head, but i'm sure you can give them a call and ask what info they're going to need.

CE = Civil Engineering. I'm sort of on the same boat as you. I still have a few years before I graduate but, i'm always wondering what I'll do. My interest's are similar to yours mine being cars, weapons (all) and electronics (actually thinking of double majoring). Every time I've attended a job fair here at Cal Poly I find myself trying to get the most info from a Raytheon rep. http://www.raytheon.com/ourcompany/ Seems to spark most of my interest. I think you and I would agree that working side by side with the military would be awsome. It even gets me thinking that maybe after I graduate to enlist for the Navy or Air force because i'm sure that will always helps especially when your dealing with weapons.

Nice! I thought it was going to be your car on the ground running with a name and all. Who was I kidding this is HybridZ! Porn on one monitor is soo 1990's..

Given the same levels of technology: The V12 will have more bearing surface area than a V8 or V10 (longer crank, more connecting rods) meaning more friction. There's also an increased amount of friction from the cylinder heads (longer cams, more lifters,valves, etc. Clearly, we can't assume friction levels are equal even with the same ring/cylinder circumference.

I too didn't think you could weld the 2 together. I was tig welding some mild steel and accidentally used stainless filler rod. I showed my instructor and he was sort of surprised. I had asked him why and he told me it was an old trick used by some guys that believed using stainless rod on mild steel gave the weld more strength. Here's a pic of my stainless borla and stainless tip that was welded with my mig using steel wire. it actually welds pretty nice too. I think with a little finish to protect the welds they should last.

That's going to be toughest part because your typical suspension upgrades includes spherical bearings, stiff shocks/springs etc. The car is already a PITA to drive bone stock with no power steering, roll up windows, and the fumes!

How do you plan on removing the strut with a press fit? What do you have against the 0032's and the threaded gland nut anyway? You know the male and female nut come with the 0032's... From what I've been reading it seems that You're trying to stay away from welding. I'm going to have to agree with Jon and say it would be better to use the gland nut to hold the strut down and hold it in place. It may seem easier to do now, but in the long run your probably going to end up with failures, and problems servicing the struts.

I had the same problem at first. I made some adjustments on the e-brake rod under the car (PITA) and it's better but it still doesn't lock as as hard as i want to. If I tighten the rod up any more there is just too much preload one the calipers and there is resistance when the car rolls. I'm thinking the ratio on the S30 ebrake lever is not enough for the s13 calipers. Ive even thought about taking an S13 cable ebrake and fitting it on.