EMWHYR0HEN

In the past I've had engine idle problems when placing the MAF too close to the TB. Also, I dont want to cut any of the gussets that support the cowl area which is why I've decided to route the intake the way I've drawn.

That's great advise I'll have to do that. Thanks Scott.

*Sigh* The F'n MAF.... I was either going to use a small cone or fab an air box with a flat filter. Either way, I think I have to plumb it like I've drawn up top.

Your E.T. comes out to 13.3 @115.5 with elavation corrections. http://www.iroc-zpostforum.com/NHRACF.htm Your trap speed and 60' explains it all. You didn't mention your FD ratio or LSD or not. You can proabably take out 3 to 4 tenths (if your Lucky) off of your 60' with better rubber. But if your trying to take it seriously... Practice practice practice.

Although you probably did loose some ridgidity in the chassis you'l gain some back when you add a roll cage. There's a reason why everyone runs the main hoop in front of the fenderwells where the rocker/floorpan junction is. Also, I wouldn't run the wiring outside. If you really want to hide it you can run it inside the rocker and inside the fenders.

That's exactly why. I tried to get as much clearence without exceding the u-joint manufacturers 30 degree angle limit. Nothing Binds and it spins smoothly.

Yeah weld the other side!

I modded my steering shaft to clear my new engine mounts. I just wanted some assurance that the job I did is legit since these components play a crutial role in the steering and because I've never done this before. I re-used the stock U-joint at the rack and the slpine where the coupler is located. I'm using a 3/4'' U-joint with weld on ends and 3/4'' OD x .120 DOM round tube. The support bearing is 3/4'' and I made the bearing holder out of 1/8'' plate which is welded to the frame but is removable with 2 x 8mm bolts. I also got rid of the stock urethane coupler for a more direct feel. All the peices were pre heated first and then welded with my 110V mig.

Thanks for the welding tips guys. I finally finished my steering shaft. Currently tackling the exhaust. Stay tuned

Sound like a camber problem. What alighnment specs are you running?

Your arms are looking great Jon. To make it easier on the eyes I just took some random round curves to get rid of the sharp corners on the clevices. After you weld it all up, including that brace that splits it into 2 triangles, you'l be amazed how ridged the arm will be and might not need to add any gussets.

The Rev-up engines also have stronger connecting rod bolts and improved oil pumps.

VQ35DE From a 2006 350Z. With: 6- speed transmission attached (stock flywheel and clutch inside bellhousing) engine harness still attached, power steering pump & bracket, stock manifolds, engine mounts, starter, and all metal brackets. Without: A/C compressor and bracket. 580 LBS Total. 6-speed transmission alone: 120LBS.

Anyone have any tips for welding cast aluminum?

I would shave the bushing down as Jon described. There's going to be lots of bind througout the entire rear control arm so you might as well try and reduce it while your there.

Update: shifter and intake relocation. I used the stock external shifter mount and univeral joint by shortening them both. The shifter is a little further back than before but, still feels good with the seat and steering wheel position. I finished it up with a peice of aluminum lined with a foam gasket to seal up the cabin. It was hard to work with such a narrow trans tunnel. I think it looks real cheap but, it works. I cut the stock 90 degree bend and throttle body flange off of the stock manifold. I've decided on extending the T/B flange straight into the cowl where the throttle body will be placed. I'm going to cut a hole that goes into the cabin where a 180 degree mandrel bend will be placed and welded. The other end will go back out to the passenger side cowl area where a small cone filter or flat filter will be placed. See my awsome illustrations below. I still trying to plan things out so i'm open to any sugestions to my knarly design.