EMWHYR0HEN

I also have a steering shaft issue now. Do you mind sharing where you got your parts? u-joints and all?

I made all of that for additional support for the T/C bracket and frame rails sort of like a crossmember. Kinda bummed because now to have to get rid of it to fit the VQ

Just strip everything down to the bare hub and strut housing. A sawzall and dremel are really useful if your trying to remove the dust sheild without removing the stub axle.

This may seem kind of lame but, this topic comes up so much it might as well be a sticky. Maybe it is time for sub forums.

I don't know who's at fault about the poor tolerances.. either Nissan or the bushing company but that's an easy way to solve the problem. Nice fix, I think i'm gonna try it. By the way you know you can't fuse aluminum and steel right?

The main difference is that the 06 VQ35DER (Rev-up) has variable cam timing on the intake and exhasut cams whereas the 03-05 models only have it on the intake cam. I'm sure there are a few other electronic tweaks but same difference it's a VQ35DE. Notice the two bulges where the intake and exhaust cam sprokets are. And notice here the extruded cover only on the intake cam side.

Thanks Dave. When you get in the zone crazy things happen! Cameron, The difference in the mounts also crossed my mind. I figured since the engine isnt going to rotate much neither is the trans since they are one unit hanging there. However, I may add a poly trans mount soon after I get it going. I didnt add a sleeve to the poly engine "padding" or that would have made it completly solid. I'm using locktight and a jam nut to hold the bolt in place. I'm glad someone's paying attention to the small details in my build besides me.

If I had 'um I'd use them. Who cares what it looks like.. protect your shaft, use the rubber.

Trans mount: After experiencing a straight pipe with my previous setup I plan on going with a Y pipe to a single exit exhaust at the rear. That's why I went a trans mount similar to Austin's design. Everything is made from 1/8'' plate and I also used the stock rubber insulator.

Build Update: I trimed the cross member to clear th oil pan then welded it shut. It's a tight fit. I think ther's only 1/4'' of clearence around the pan but with minimal movement from the engine I think It'l be fine. I also decieded not to add any additional bracing on the cross member simply because I didn't think it was needed since I only cut off the lip. I slapped on the rack and pinion in hopes of getting the steering shaft on with out any problems.... I finally got snagged. The engine mount is clearly in the way. I think i'm going to have to get another shaft.