EMWHYR0HEN

Wow.. I thought I sucked at body and paint... That work is absolutely rediculous even for a geo metro. And common, wood spacers for a car?!

If you have a welder you can probably build one better yourself.

What really matters is the compound. Just check out reviews for different street tires. I would definately prefer some narrow sticky tires over some wider so-so ones. 255,265,275 I dont think it matters so much on a street tire...

Sweet!

It was a great idea but, it didnt work. It only goes on one way

Now that someone mentioned it, It might just be easier/nicer to fab an upper inake manifold with the TB facing forwards (like the LS V8 engines) I not liking the idea of cutting into the cowl anymore. I know nothing about fabbing manifolds if anyone has anything to share please speak freely. I was thinking of possibly cutting the manifold and using the stock flange for accurate mounting. Since hood clearence might be an issue if I move the TB up I might have to lower the height of the manifold.

I appreciate the comments. If everyone only knew how much of your time goes to school being a ME major senior and all..... To be honest I don't know how you do it. I'm still taking my lower division ME courses so a have a little cushion for free time plus my car is only a couple feet from my house. By sharing by photos/info/progress my main goal is to just add technical info for people in the future and If I can help motivate/inspire people on their cars then even better. BTW I got my steering stuff from Speedwaymotors.

Once you have everything installed the SR is probably going to weight just as much as the L28 but, since most of that weight will be towards the rear of the x-member I can see the front end raising no more than 1/2''. I think you should be fine with lowering springs but if you have the xtra dough I would go with some adj. coil overs.

I don't know why Nissan didnt just machine them that way. I agree with Davy, your welds are looking better and better.

I see you added a flex tube after the y-pipe. I noticed most of the aftermarket y-pipes for 350z's also have flex pipes. Any particular reason? Hope your first startup comes around soon and all goes smoothly. Good luck!

Mechanical Engineering @ Cal Poly

Of course your joking. Austin's work has far more detail and quaility than my build and that stuff takes time.

The rear pipe is just tacked on right now. A flange is going to be added for a muffler and a staight pipe for the track

I'm 23, I go to school full time, and if i'm not working on my car i'm out making a buck wrenching of cars and houses. To be completely honest I think i'm more efficient than fast. I try to stay as clean and organized as possible, I stay away from dissruptions like phone calls, and manage my time working on my car wisely. With any of my projects: I take the time to plan out exactly what i'm going to do and everything i'm going to need before I work and write them down on a notepad. When it's time to work I simply look at the notepad and become a machine as some have said. When everything comes together you just fall into a groove and things get done quite fast. In turn, your productivity goes up and you stay focused with the build. But that's just me.....

Update: Exhaust The layout is 2.5'' x 16 gauge steel piping w/ mandrel bends on each side of the manifold, both sides coming together at the "Y - pipe" turning into 3" piping also w/ mandrel bends then a flange for a muffler and straight pipe to be attached ( still to come) I got all my piping, O2 bungs, and v- bands from Columbia Madrel Bending. The stock manifolds didnt clear the firewall so the flanges and a couple inches of the manifold were cut off. The 2.5'' piping is welded onto the stock manifolds and is sent down and back about down pipe length. The rest of the exhaust system is then attached with V-bands and one aluminum hanger. Everything fits really tight against the chassis. With the car on the ground the exhaust is up 3'' at the lowest point. By far the most time comsuming part of the swap. Also, really nice to have an extra hand when fabbing an exhaust. Also, the entire exhaust system, including manifolds and hardware & excluding a muffler, weighed in at 32 LBS