EMWHYR0HEN

Austin, Great work as usual. I wasn't able to tell if your were using your factory oil cooler on the passenger side of the engine. The outlet points straight down at the ground on mine and I was just wondering what you did about yours. Also, If you look closely you really dont need that upper pulley. I thought it was a water pump at first but it's just an idler pully for the Power steering.

Thanks Phar. I'm far too deep in my build to go back and change something like my mounts but, thanks for teh drawing i'm sure they might help another swapper in the future. Lets just say I got the engine setup for a bargin because it was a friend.

The rotors probably have different offsets. You can can always try it.

Now that I have to see!

I dont know what the big deal is it was gasoline not paint thinner. I would have just taken the reinburment money, car wash, and a lesson well learned. Let the gas dry, wash it with your usual car soap, wax the area and call it a day.

If you do make your own this might help http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139673

I don't know if i'm just lucky or the whole failsafe thing doesn't apply to me..but I just plugged in the security light bulb and connected the battery and the light blinked when the key was out and turned off when the key was in ign. If I remember correctly that's exactly the way it was on my friends 350Z. Also, I just remembered my friends car was in the body shop for over a month with out a battery and it started right up when I went with him to pick it up. I took all of the harnesses from his car except the rear body harness and connected them exactly the way they were originally. I don't see why I should run into any problems.

I'm going to have to plug in the light and check. I don't get it the whole 48 hour battery disconnect thing. How did you manage to start yours? i'm assuming the battey has been disconnected for more than 48 hours.. I'm only using 3 gauges. My oil pressure and water temp are mechanical so no need to mess with the stock signals, but I still have to figure out what to do with the tach signal. I'm using an Autometer tach so my guess is i'm going to have to wire in a tach adapter onto the #1 coilpack and run the signal to the tach from there. That's the way I ran it with my RB setup but, the tach adapter will pretty much work for any setup. What are you planning on doing with your gauges? I think it would be really cool if you got the 350Z cluster fitted on the 240z dash somehow. I know hooking it up would be as easy as plugging it in Edit: now that I think about it I might just cut into my aluminum dash and fit this on there flush. http://autos.yahoo.com/nissan_350z_coupe_nismo-slideshow/?tab=gen&i=izp_instrumentcluster No need for the speedo since it gets its signal off of the ABS unit so It might be a good place for some auto meters... All I really need is the tach.

With over 300 hours of towing under my belt I have to agree with Jon on this. Towing with a truck is a day and night difference compared to a minivan. I'm sure you could get away with towing 2 jet skis, a small boat, or even a small travel trailer but, a racecar and supplies is a bit much IMO. I think I sugested buying a midsized truck before you bought the Odyssey for towing purposes...

Clint - Thanks. I'm sure your planned setup will be a huge improvement especially when it's tied into a roll cage. Austin- I basically just primed the engine to get the blood flowing. Evereything seemed to be working. I heard all the relays turning on with power and with the key in IGN. The manifold and fuel system still isnt complete so I coulded start it up. I was super tempted to just spray a liitle fuel into the intake ports...lol. Anyway, what are the symptoms of the ems going into failsafe mode?

The frame rails are 2.5 x .125'' square tubing. If you want more info about the frame work I did see this thread : http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125985&highlight=chassis+stiffening Also, as David mentioned you don't have to place the member in the front. Now that I have so much room in front of the engine I actually could have placed the front peice alot further back. Here are some pics with my previous engine which should fit very similarly to yours. If your still going to be using your RB running the cross member in front might be your best option.

Thanks Guys. I actually cranked the engine over today for a good bit to get the oil flowing and metered some pressure in the oil press gauge. All the wiring is completely done so startup should be just around the corner. It's just a matter of finishing up my intake manifold and fuel system. I'll have some detailed wiring pics info shortly.

You mean like this?

I think that's pushing it IMO. I have a 18' boat and I used to tow it with a Ford Aerostar with a 4.0 and towing package. Towing it up hills and braking was never a problem. However, it was really frantic towing it on the highway because it was really unstable and on windy days it was scary. I absolutely hated towing with that van and the furthest I towed regularly was from LA to San Diego which is a 2 hour drive. If your planning on doing 1-5 hour trips I would highly recomend a truck. Just to estimate with some numbers: Car - 2200 LB Trailer (dual axel) - 1400LB Tools, jack etc -75LB Spare wheels - 150LB Misc - 60 LB That totals up to 3,885 LB not including the weight inside your van (you, other people, fuel) If you ask me it's a bad idea. You'l be putting your self and others in danger and youl be beating the crap out of your family car. With the gas prices the way they are i'm sure you can pick up a decent used domestic truck for a bargin.

Justin, OMG WTF LOL

Wasnt planning on sharing these but since you asked.. Here you can see I mounted the ECU on the kickpanel The BCM & fuse block mounted on the trans tunnel and relay boxes mounted on the floor.

Just a little update. The car is back on the ground. I don't know if it's the new engine placement or weight but the front end is about 1/4 '' higher than before. I didnt realize how low the engine was placed until now. The lower oil pan is about 2'' lower than the cross member and is about 3'' from the ground which kind of worries me... I had to redo my front brake lines because of the steering shaft and relocated the clutch line from passenger to driver side. Also got most of the wiring installed. It's a mess compared to what I had before but the dash covers most of it pretty well.