EMWHYR0HEN

Weight update: 71 240Z. Engine/Drivetrain: RB25DE w/ 5-spd, 2 ft exhaust system, double pass aluminum rad, R200. Chassis: SFC, boxed seat mounts, boxed trans members inside tunel, 1/8'' engine compartment frame rails, core support replaced with 1'' round tubing, F&R strut tower reinforcing. Interior: aluminum dash, one fiberglass Recaro with aluminum mounts, Auto power roll bar, stripped wiring harness, 12 LB Oddysey battery, 12 gallon aluminum fuel tank with square tubing fuel cage. Exterior: no bumpers, all stock glass, all metal panels, AZC front brakes, MM 240sx rear, shortened struts w/ koni's and GC coil overs, 1'' front 7/8 rear sway bars, modded control arms with rod ends. 2220 LBS with 5 gallons of fuel. Shooting for ~2100 after VQ swap.

Wiring update: I've pulled all the needed electronics and wiring from my donor car. It was such a PITA! Now I know why j-yards can charge so much for that stuff. Anyway, I took the engine room harness, main harness (dash), and everything that attached to the harnesses like the Body Control Modual, A/C amp, ignition switch w/ key... etc. Now that I have everything sorted out it looks like this is going to be a straightforward wiring job. Basically I'm going to run all the 350Z harnesses on my car so that all I have to do is connect all the harnesses, grounds, and connect the battery. Ive decieded to run the dash harness under my dash, engine room harness inside the cabin, BCM and fuse panel on top of the trans tunnel, and ECM on the passenger kickpanel. Also, the 350Z gas pedel can be mounted on the stock pedal mount. I will have to make a box to make it come back more towards the seat but it lines up pretty well. This is where i'm going to mount the relay boxes. It makes it much easier for me because all I have to do is extent the battery cables about a foot. The 350Z ignitioin switch mounts nicely on the steering colum. However, the locking mechanism doesnt line up.

what year pathfinder?

I'm not going to be using the stock 350Z fuel tank so I think a return line would be my best option. It's probably going to be a bit overkill but I guess I don't have a choice.

Back in high school a group of friends and I with 240sx's would play the game and do the late night canyon runs. I say play the game because almost everytime someone would crash and avoiding a wreck was the game. I have to admit at the time it was exciting. Friendly compitition, testing you and your cars capabilities but, the crashes were too real and came too frequently we had to quit. We all realized that a cheap thrill like that wasn't worth dying/hurt, pain and suffering from a wrecked car that we all work so hard for. So we all took it to the track and like Jon mentioned realized we knew very little about driving. Now i'm not going to say I don't drive canyon roads anymore because I do enjoy a nice daytime drive once in a while. However I would never drive the 8/10-10/10 like I used to when I was dumb. If your in the Socal area my fav's are: Sand Canyon aka little tujunga cnyn rd. - lots of banked turns, high and low speed sections, low traffic Angeles Crest (going towards the Antelope valley and wrightwood)- predictable high speed turns, well paved. lots of CHP and bikes Bouquet and San franquito Cnyn - moderate to low speed turn. decreasing radiuses Then you have Mt. Wilson, Glendora Mt. road, La tuna Cnyn, and then the Malibu area cnyn which branches into so many including the infamous stunt rd.

Oh I hear you on that one! Mechanical > Electrical.

That's definatly Norcal we don't have trees that big and green down here.

Have you contacted Dave @ AZC? He's usually quick to solve any of my problems.

I cut mine in thirds to gain a little more travel but, I started at half.

A 30 year old car with sway bars and wider tires isnt going to cut it IMO. Luckily your here at HybridZ so the info to help you improve is endless. I have friends that only drive FWD and they had the same impressions with my car. With a FWD setup you have more grip during corner entry so different tecniques will have to be learned with a RWD setup. *trailbraking*

Adam, Is there any particular reason why you want to keep the stock tach? As far as I know there isnt any stock tachs compatable with the RB. Autometer makes tachs that fit almost perfect in the stock tach hole on the dash.

I'm swapping over the engine/electrical from a 350Z over to my 240Z. My build thread can be found here:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138177 The 350Z fuel system functions only with a feed line from the fuel pump without a fuel return. The feed line then goes to 2 fuel dampers then the fuel rails. I'm planning on letting the 350Z electronics control my walbro 255 GPH external fuel pump and feeding the engine with a single line. The computers function is to just turn on/off the fuel pump. So without a return can I damage my fuel pump or fuel components if the pressure isnt regulated? thoughts?

On my SR and RB mafs I shaved the flange pattern off and grinded/sanded the maf to a smooth round surface. Then placed a silicon/rubber hose and clamped over the maf. Done!