EMWHYR0HEN

Sure your welcome to use it just PM me.

Thanks for the info Jon. Can I simply appraise the car myself? I have all my receipts...? Lucky....

I'm looking for some kind of auto insurance for classic cars or cars that are rarely driven. I know there are some people here that barely drive their cars I was wondering if some have gone this route instead of insuring throgh the same insurance as your daily drivers. I heard that it's actually alot cheaper since the cars arn't driven as frequently. Any recomendations? and if you guys don't mind, mention what state your in and how much you pay for your annual preimium.

as long as the knurl diameter is 12.90 mm you should be fine

KA24E or DE for a budget, SR20DE or DET if you wan't to go fast.

Question for Jon or anyone else who installed ARP studs. Did you have to remove the rear hubs to install the 2.5'' long studs from the inside?

After driving all around town and trying to deal with idiot part store people I said screw it and bought the ARP studs from summit. Just for refererence the Summit part # is ARP 100-7708 and are currently $12.95 for a set of 5. A bargain considering some of the auto part stores wanted $2.99 each for a dorman stud.

I currently have 2nd gen. Rx7 wheel studs on my hubs. From the hub the stud comes out 1.7''. My problem is the threaded portion is only 1'' from the outside leaving .7'' of the stud unthreaded and I cant get the lugnut down deep enough. I think I've seen pics (Jon's maybe) of a rx7 stud that was threaded all the way. Is there a particular brand or store that has these studs that are threaded deep? Here's my stud: as you can see even the knurl is too long! Help!

Painted and installed: Another plus with these arms is that now I can lengthen the travel of my axles ( lowered 240Z W/ R200 = little axle travel esp. on driver side) when adjusting camber by extending the arms outward. Maybe I don't need to switch to cv's after all!

I think .06 is still too thick IMO But, if thats all they got .06 will do. I don't know where in CA your located but check out Industrial Metal Supply. If there's one in your area you can score all types of metal.

I felt the same way about the bad dog rails. I don't see any good in covering up rusty metal. Just take a cut off wheel to remove the rusty parts, paint then cover.

I used 1'' OD x .095.

As a Laker fan I can truly say the Celtics deserve a Title esp. KG and Peirce. However, I (and everyone else) didn't expect the lakers to even make it to the fianls. I wan't to see a re-match next year only Lakers having their real center back Andrew Bynum.

I always like to change my oils warm after settling for few minutes. The way I see it is that oil is less viscous when warm making it easier to move or flow down to the oil pan. I don't think it really makes a difference on how you do it. The only exception is if an engine has been sitting for a long time and isn't primed before running.

Sound like the reaction disc. Pull off the booster and shake it. If you hear something moving inside remove the locking clip to remove the push rod and fish out the disc and glue it in place.

Thanks guys. I actually considered making a few sets, but I just don't have the proper tools to do the job efficiently. In fact the tools I used were; hand drill, angle grinder/cutoff wheel/wire brush, hacksaw, and I used the TIG welder at my school. I'd love to reproduce these but unfourtunatly I can't. I used this http://www.metalgeek.com/cgi-system/php5.cgi/static/cope.pcgi to make the notches on the tubes. Just plug in the tube sizes, angle then print, cut, tape, draw, notch!

I finally finished the rear arms. I tiged everything using ER70S-2 filler rod and it came out pretty good. The chrome-moly was a really easy to weld. I did a test install, (i'll have pics when their painted) which only took a couple minutes, and right away I could tell there was less bind because I could actually push up on the suspension unlike before. I compared the weight to the stock flimzy arms and my new tubed ones came in 1.6 lbs less. Not much, but the stiffness gained is what counts. In fact, when I had the stock arm on the jig I could actually bend the mounting points in almost every direction, by hand! Total spent on rear arms: $219.22 Time spent: Too much!