EMWHYR0HEN

Just cuious, what kind of milage is the truck getting?

try www.midwestcontrol.com

You can try adjusting the shoes so that there is room bewteen them and the inside of the drum. I think the drum is aluminum so i don't think it's rusted on the hub although WD-40 might help. I used a small hammer or mallet and tapped the back of the drum all around on the fins. I don't remember if there was a threaded hole on the front face of the drum but, if there is just turn a bolt through it and it should come off.

After sucessfully welding under my car for many hours it's definatly possible to get the job done with out a rotisserie. Looking at you work, your welds look cold and dirty. 1. Make sure your welder is getting proper power. Skinny old extension cords and bad outlets will reduce the amount of current going to the welder. With the proper power your welder should easily be able to burn holes right through 20-16 gauge metal. 2. Cleanliness is key. Make sure you remove all of the surrounding undercoating, paints, and seam sealers around the welding areas. Not only is that stuff extreemly toxic when its burns but it will contaminate the molten metal. Although the welds for the floors and SFC don't look pretty i'm sure they'l hold up. However, I would consider redoing your transmission mount ( looks like a 25DET tranny). I sure wouldn't want contamination on the welds supporting a trans and 250+ Ft/Lbs.

I would try MSA, Junkyards and then last resort measure them up and try to get a new high grade bolts with the same dimentions.

You guys suck, fat chicks need lovin too! anyways, I don't think the scooter thing bothers me much except for the fact that they only do 40MPH. Ive got my heart set on this the DR Z400 supermoto. Tough call.... trailer and stuff for the Z or.... eh

The Z32 uses a thicker vented rotor. Are you using thicker pads, shiming them?

Looks good! What rotors are you using? Z31 or Z32? Could you take a picture of the back side? i'm curious to see how the MM bracket and the caliper mate. Also, what's the diffrence in pad area when comparing the Z32 to the 240sx?

I ran into another scooter that Honda makes called the "Ruckus", also 50cc's and priced around the same as the Zuma. I'm liking the Honda after seeing some modded ones stock : Modded with a longer swing arm and 150cc engine:

Thanks for the tips. There's no way in hell i'd ride that thing, lol .

I want something more cofortable, those things are like pocket bikes! I also just found out that you can no longer register a dirt bike for street use in CA anymore.

Ok I know this is HybridZ and we're all about going fast but, I need a cheap way to get around and i'm considering a scooter (don't judge me, lol) I was wondering if anyone here had any recomendations maybe something a little faster for the same price. I've been considering the Yamaha Zuma. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products/modelspecs/151/0/specs.aspx It's just a little over 2 grand brand new and gets 123MPG. It's got a 50cc engine w/ an auto tranny. I would prefer a bigger engine and a manual gearbox which is why i'm also consering a dirtbike with street tires. Anyone?

smart car

Well, If your going for looks the Rb26DETT sure looks shocking in an s30 bay. IMO I think 4 cylinders looks kinda funny in there.

Back to your original question, I don't know why you didn't consider the L28ET. Cheap, lots of torque, reliable, and if you mount the engine and drivetrain further back and down good weight distribution. On top of that plenty of info on the L sereis here on hybridZ.

For small stuff like this.... Hell no. It's hard to beat the system. If you've got the time and money go for it, otherwise save it for someting bigger.

Guys, Thanks for the kind words. Just like my other projects couldn't do this with out HybridZ. I'll have more pics when their welded and test fitted. I'm still thinking of how I should finish them. Zinc plated? rattle can?

Holy massive wheel gaps Batman! How do you deal with the body roll?

If I remember correctly I read an article stating that it's not necessary to use 4130 plate when adding gussets to chrom-moly and encouraged the use of mild steel plate instead. I actually had the same concern on a project a while back so I asked my welding professor, who also teaches metellurgy, and He said the fusion of the two would be just fine. 4130 is just a high grade steel.

I got everything tack welded including the clevis that was added. I just used 1/8 rectangular tubing and cut it down to the size I wanted. For the adjustable rod I just added a left hand tube and rod end.