EMWHYR0HEN

On my way to school kinda rushing for an exam I get pulled over by a local cop. He comes up walking to my car fast and has a huge smile on his face. Turns out he just wanted to know if I was selling my car.

Jon, Your idea's also make sence to me (in theory) but i'm still not totally convinced. I've been collectively looking at various different rear control arms designs (mainly racecars w/ tubular arms) and they all seem to have the toe adjuster on the rear even with different strut/spring locations. I guess the only way to figure this out is to put it to the test.

After more reading i'm changing my previous arm design. I'm planning on making the front rod end solid and the rear one attached to a cleviced adj. rod. What would be the diffrence if I had it the other way around making the rear rod end adjustable?

Youd be suprized how many people have the same problem and just ignore it. I sure did, for about 2 years exactly. If your going to be driving on decent roads and soft suspension I wouldnt worry about tweaking you chassis.

B13's are nice cars your's especially. Hopefully you got a pre '74 Z so that you wont be needing to see the smog fairy anymore. Anyway, welcome to HybridZ. I think your gonna love it here

Thanks Mike. Something I really need to take into consideraton.

I'm making mine to be exactly the same as stock. What would be the advantage of dong that? I dont think aligning suspension parts with body panels is not a good idea.

Thanks for the ideas guys perfect timing too. 74_5.0L_Z - How much toe are you running to get everything in a bind? Jon - Maybe i'm not getting it but, I don't see how an adj toe link will be any different. Wont there still be bind at a certain point? Also I know that adj. toe in the rear only requires little movement in the arms.

I took the stock control arm and made a jig out of 1'' square tubing. I wanted my new arms to have the exact same mounting points as the stock arms only having adjustable end links holding the hub assy. It turns out the round tube on the stock arm is 1'' OD so I deceided to re use that and use it as my starting point. I attached 2 5/8 - 18 rod ends & threaded tube ends to the jig so basically now I just have to connect everything using 1'' OD x .095 wall Chrom-moly tubing. I'm going to drill 3 or 4 holes on the tube to plug weld the tube ends. Once every thing is cut I think it might be best that I tack everything here with my mig before I Tig weld everything at my school.

Sorry to hear the bad new. I'm all around the LA area alot i'll keep and eye out. A picture of the car would help ALOT.

Good to hear a Z made it in the top ranks. I'm not familiar with VIR, any other times and cars to compare with?

It really depends what mounts you use. Regardless, it's going to be a tight fit.