280zjoel

I have a set of the rear flares. Pm Me if your interested.

Since there are a few people wondering how to do a RHD conversion the right way and not a really good thread on how to do it, I thought I would show you guys how Im doing it. Any comments or advice would greatly be appreciated. First off, as was mentioned before in many threads about RHD conversions, If you want to do a RHD conversion your better off just buying a Fairlady Z. Some of you might be wondering why I am contradicting myself, well its simple, I'm almost done with all the work i want to do on my Datsun(ya right:flamedevi), and buying another car to restore would be pointless for me since i still haven't finished my car, I cant afford to have another project. The RHD conversion is NOT and easy one to do, alot of work is involved. You will need to pull out your engine(unless its already out) and there is quite a bit of work to do. Anyhow onto the swap. The RHD stuff you need will need: Firewall Dash board Heater and fan Assembly Rack and Pinion(Supposedly the LHD one works, not %100 sure about that) Steering shaft Brake Lines Wiper arms(yep their different) Wiper motor Wiper Linkage Pedal Assembly There might be more, anyhow. Here is a pic of firewall of the RHD Clip : The Yellow lines represent where i will be drilling out the factory pinch welds. Also the yellow squared off section has the old vehicles vin number on it, That needs to be cut out for your vin number. The red circle shows were the heater/fan assembly has its vent under the cowl panel, They are different and need to be changed. Here's a shot of the "interior" side of the firewall The best thing to do is to get a whole clip, that way you have everything you need and wont end up getting stuck half way through. On a side note, if you have a custom engine swap make sure to check for clearances, I noticed that the steering shaft will hit the alternator on my Sr20det( I will end up mounting the alternator on the other side of the engine) Ya dont wanna go through with all that work and find out that you cant put your engine back in lol. The steering rack was in need of some grease and new boots so i went ahead and cleaned greased and installed new boots since its out of the clip. All nice and ready to be installed:mrgreen: Here's a pic of My Engine, I had just pulled it out of the Z and I swear its looking at me like it wants to fight lol:icon45: I Will post some more progress tomorrow after I get tired of working on it, I'm at the "While I'm at it" stage and im going to paint the engine bay since the motor is out.

Im just planning on keeping them bolt on, the driver side was bolted on wrong, so i have to redrill the holes and try again.

Just put on my Zg flares and I have a feeling I put them on backwards. Can someone tell me if I put them on correctly or not? (Maybe Flip them around?)

http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Search seat upholstery, they have it in leather there.

bump.. anyone?

Looking for a steering wheel hub for my 280z. It has to be the six hole momo style. Let me know if anyone has one for sale. Thanks

Wow sweet ride. That thing looks sharp!!! BTW what color is that?

Thanks for that link

Cool, thanks guys for the info. It really helps out

DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNGGGGGG WOW that car looks sweet. Good Job:2thumbs:

you got my vote

Lol I think he meant rotor thickness when he mentioned that.

WOW that looks pretty sweet, nice combo with the Rota RB's

Ive been doing some research on how to read the Air Fuel Ratio on for the purpose of filling my brain with more info:hs: and I was wondering if anyone can chime in and let me know if im on the right track with this, So far I have found out that: Stoich is 14.7 to 1 Anything lower than 14.7 to 1 is considered Rich Anything Higher than 14.7 to 1 is considered Lean Running Lean(on Turbo engines) cause Detonation A.K.A NO BUENO:fmad: Running Rich Just burns alot more fuel and tends to run cooler than normal You want to be somewhere around 11.5-11.0 to 1 AFR @ WOT Am I somewhat on the right track? Any Other Tips on would be nice.

wow those look sweet:2thumbs:

Ya, the z32 mafs will cause your engine to not run right since its not tuned for it. Try putting an sr mafs on it. That should fix it.

That hose comes from your air idle control valve, you can weld a bung on your intercooler pipe and connect it. Just like in the pic.

I would get the vacuum leak fixed then maybe check the mafs, what fuel pump do you have in it? also How is you timing? BTW got any pics of your engine bay?

the hood uses the 240sx hinges and and latch. It opens up from the front, we wanted to make it open up from the back like z does but due to the weight he was going to wait to make the fiberglass hood and then redo the hinges.

Its not a kit, but its not too difficult to do either. As you can see from the pictures you are going to need: Headlight buckets Type 3 airdam Z car hood to chop up Fiberglass skills Simple fab skills The only area he had a problem with was the hood. With the z hood chopped up + the 240sx hood + all that body filler made it extremely heavy. The solution to that was to make a mold and make a fiberglass hood that was lighter( that never happened though) Ill let you know what exactly had to be done to get it to fit after I ask my brother

Here you go. They are not the best but here are some pics of the 240sx with Z front end.

If your looking of a new set, you can buy them from Motorsport Z. http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?

That's weird I'm getting the same thing. Here you go

Sorry it took so long. Here you go