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280zjoel

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Everything posted by 280zjoel

  1. Im pretty much going to do the same thing. Mounting it on the other side will help fix the steering rack issue. for the bracket im not sure just yet, I might just buy some flat stock iron and weld it together and bolt on the alternator.
  2. Here is a link for a vk56de for $2500. Not bad considering it only has 17k miles http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TITAN-ARMADA-QX56-PATHFINDER-VK56DE-ENGINE-5-6-MOTOR-08_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b00cb03dQQitemZ110327803965QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
  3. Hey people's!!!! Sorry for the lack of updates, I have been getting a good amount of work done on the Z, but its just really time consuming. I got the whole engine bay stripped to bare metal and used Por15 on it. Then the bodywork got on its way. Since im related to the Bondo King (my brother loves BONDO!!!!) I am having him do the work on it to smothen it out. Im not going for a super show car look, just a clean non bumpy engine bay. Then I will spray it with Por15 Chassis coat. Its painted finally!!!!!!!! BTW thats just body filler dust on the sides Lol the glare from the flash and the body filler make it appear alot worst then it really Is, but some good filler will fix that. Hehehe Like my new cup holder?
  4. LOL Just buy a RHD Z. Trust me on that one, its a TON of work to do the conversion(the right way at least).
  5. Earlier I mentioned that I would post some pics of the LHD and RHD parts to show the difference or similarities. Anyhow I took some pics today of some parts. I did not get pics of everything yet. I will post more in the future. Here goes: Pedal Box: Lol RHD on the right side and LHD on the left. As you can see they seem to look the same but the difference is at the top of the pedal box. Here is the top of the pedal boxes. the RHD box curves to the right where as the LHD Box curves to the left, and has a harder bend then the RHD box. Steering Column: They are pretty much the same except for the part that bolts onto the firewall. LOL i forgot to switch the steering shafts around for the pic, so the one on the Right is the LHD and the one on the Left is the RHD steering shaft. Note that the flanges that bolt onto the firewall are different. The bolt pattern on the RHD shaft is 3'' across from center of one bolt to the another, on the LHD its 3 1/2'' across. Im not sure what these are called, but Imna call them the vent boxes:? anyhow you can see that they are complete opposites of each other. And here is the other side of them crazy parts. On a side note I did manage to buy some more Urethane sealer to seal up all the edges so that I can start to put the interior back together.
  6. ok, got an update. Not much but here goes, The engine bay is stripped to bare metal, and the inside of the firewall was too. Today I got to brush on some Por15 in the inside. GRRRRR dripping Por15 SUCKS!!!!!!!! LOL i had some Por15 left over from before(gloss black) and I was able to cover everything except for a 6'' x 12'' section under the cowl panel. So i ended up using some of the new por15 I bought, which i found out came in a semi Gloss coat. Oh well, I am going to spray it over with a topcoat anyways. At least now I am that much closer to getting the interior in.
  7. hehehe, true. Im happy without the power steering. My Saturn Ion has Electronic steer assist(electric motor instead of power steering pump) and they are know for breaking down(which mine is of course) and that bad boy is HARD to turn. I drove the Z before i tore it down and i had to laugh becuase it felt like i had power steering in the Z compared to my saturn lol
  8. I actually bough the whole set up from someone here on the forum(Stealth-Z). I do have an extra pedal box as well as a Subaru RHD power steering rack, im not sure what mods need to be done to fit the Suby rack but i dont think its to difficult to do.
  9. Rofl, hey thanks for making my side hurt:icon45:
  10. Thanks, I know what you mean about the Por-15, they sell a thinner for it so that I can spray with with a spray gun, After I use the metal cleaner and metal etch im going to make sure its dried well, and hit all the areas where the panels meet together with a heat gun to make sure all the moisture is out of the cracks and seams, The plan is Por-15 everything, once its dry to the touch, then add body filler to all the rough spots clean em all up, then the chassis coat over everything. It would be nice to do the body filler first but the Por-15 website give specific directions on how to add filler to panels with Por-15. Also once the Por-15 is sprayed down and dried, im going to use urethane seam sealer to seal off all the seams.
  11. I have a front set, lol i just have to find them. Pm me if you want to buy em.
  12. ok, well I got someone helping me do some work on the Z, here is a couple of shots of the engine bay: Most of it is cleaned off but there is still more work to do. I did end up buying a Por-15 paint kit, with the chassis coat, so i guess its satin black for the engine bay. I dunno why, but i kinda like this pic for some reason, so i though id post it lol
  13. Not mch going on, just getting the engine bay prepped for paint and all the rust cleaned up. Ill post some pics in a few days with the progress, I have to balance trying to work on my Z and customers project car( R32 Skyline:mrgreen:)
  14. Here is the Top-Mount intercooled setup I did on my Z http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150387
  15. lol how bout i just pay for your guys gas, and you come back down here. BTW I just wanted to say THANKS to Stealth-Z and ncfisher for personally delivering the clip with all the goodies from Sacramento to the LA area (800mile round trip)
  16. The wiring for the most part is pretty easy, I have all the RHD wiring for the car, Its mostly plug and play, with the exception the the wiring exits the other side(I think ) Your right about that TON of work. It really would have been easier if I did not have to separate the firewall, bottom cowl, and top cowl to fit it in. I had one of those "uh oh....oh well, more work" moments. Is it worth the work? Honestly id say NO, but whats done is done. If i were to ever do it again, I would remove the whole front clip above the rails. Atleast its back together now. Now i just have to clean up all them weld spots and prep for paint.
  17. Heres a little update from today. I threw the fenders on and the cowl panel to make sure they fit properly. Their not bolted down but the holes line up pretty good. I was kind of bored so i though id mess with the vin on my Dash board, you can see that my original LHD Dash has the Vin on it, where as the RHD Vin is place on that little cowl vent do-hicky(ROFL I have no idea what its called) After some careful drilling to remove the rivets, Im good to go. Right now some screws are holding the VIN on but im going to get some rivets and rivet it back in. I have figure something out about that hole too.
  18. I was doing some cleaning around the car since there is grinder dust, metal shavings and metal scrap all around my car, so I said what the heck, lets bolt the dash on real quick: It put a smile on my face to see it in:icon44:
  19. Got some more work done today:mrgreen: I started off sealing the inside of the cowl panel with 3M Seam seal(kinda messy) and as I waited for that to dry i cleaned off the bottom side of the top cowl panel before I welded it back on. After about 3 hrs of Aligning, measuring, screwing down, and welding here is the final product: Im really happy now since its getting pretty close to being done, and now since everything I welded back in I can put it back in the garage to work on:redface:
  20. lol 1 post and he's already banned.
  21. Ya them bumpers are HEAVY!!!! lol I kinda like the look of the rear with a shave bumper.
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