280zjoel

yep, i had the same problem when i installed mine. I had to cut the seat brackets off of the floor board and re-make them so that i could fit without having my head touch the roof. Hope you have a welder ready:-o

you will feel a big difference if you get 3.9 or higher gear ratio in the rear. i had the 3.5 gear in my 75 280z and when i dropped the 3.9 in it, it was a day and night difference.

Check this out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-280Z-15-16-Rebuilt-Brake-Master-Cylinder_W0QQitemZ400053104312QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5d2505eeb8&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Hehe. That must be the JDM camber plates. Its off the hizzle yo ... i noticed your rotaryz.com on the bottom of your post which reminded me of when i was in school, this guy i knew who BSed about having all these super fast cars that could "smoke" my Z, yet he came to school in his moms mazda 323 all the time and i never got to see his "10 second twin turbo charged twin V-tec honda civic"( he really said that). Well he suposedly ended up selling it to get a mazda Rx-7(of course, BS) I asked him what had been done to the engine( I know a thing or two about rotary engines) and on the list of BS modifications on his engine were "upgraded DC pistons". I nearly hit the floor laughing, he asked me what was so funny. I told him hes full of it becuase Rotary engines dont have pistons. His reply was that its the JDM version that does have pistons. ....... WOW was that an ADD moment or what?

Hehehe thats were i got my wiring done at.

Its not that i do not like the dash in it. I just want something different. You most likely will not like what i got under the hood either. I really like the modern look you get with Nissan s13 dash in a z which has been done. But the s14 dash look awsome, and its just my opinion that it will look nice in a Datsun also.

I just picked up an s14 (95-89 Nissan 240sx) dash for my z for free. I know a lot of people have already done the s13 dash swap which looks sweet. But i was wondering how come no one has done the s14 dash yet? Does any one has any tips on what is required to make it fit? If not i guess im on my own on that. Thanks for the help in advance.

oops.... i posted in the cars wanted forum. how do i move it to parts wanted?

I got an MSA type 3 airdam i want to trade for a set of ZG flares, the airdam is in good condition and has a few chips and scratches but nothing major. I am willing to drive over to drop it off if your local.

I do not think the stock one will cut it, I could be wrong though. When i did my swap i had to upgrade the pump.

A Dog walks into a bar and says, "Im lookin fer da man who shot muh paw."

I checked the PCV and seems to work fine, only allows air to travel in one direction, on the other side of the valve cover i have a hose that goes from the vent back to were the oil catch can should be(no catch can just straight hose to the vent on the block) and the other end on the valve cover just vents out

Hey everyone, i've been messing around with my sr20det in my z for a while and I am starting to get bummed out Becuase it seems to be one problem after another. this was my first ever build so i had a few set backs. first got the motor and found out it was toast, then i decided to rebuild it. that took almost a year to do( was in school with no job ) got it put back together, then got it installed and sent it to Vildini Motorsports to get the wiring done and some other goodies done to it.( Those guys Rock!!!!) I had installed a used metal head gasket with out spraying it with copper spray, they let me know that it was leaking, so i bought a new metal headgasket and installed it( this time with copper spray) well i got the motor running and it hits really hard when you accelerate and seems to run nice but the problem i noticed is that when i open the valve cover cap when the engine is idling it puts out alot of blow by( puffs out air and a little smoke) it doesnt put out any smoke out of the exhuast so im not sure what the problem is. I did do a compression test and i got: 1. 170psi 2. 165psi 3. 165psi 4. 165psi Im really bummed out, any help will really be appreciated. thanks guys

Thanks for the tips guys, The owner of the welding shop i go to told me that i need .090'' guess he was wrong lol. heheh well i just picked up some .060'' and im going to finish my exhaust and post some pic's or vid's of my sr20det powered z. its about time i got that bad boy back on the streets:burnout:

thanks EMWHYR0HEN, im in Loma Linda ca and the nearest place to sell steel is Pattens Steel and they dont have that thickness in any of their shops, also i tried to order some from another shop and they said they could not get it at that thickness. thanks

Hi everyone, I'm doing my own custom exhaust on my sr20 powered 280z, and i was told by the guy at my local welding store to use .090 thickness 3'' piping, but every time i check at the metal yard they never have .090 thickness piping only .060 or .120 thickness. If anything i would go .060 because i think .120'' might be to heavy. do you guys think .060'' would be too thin to use for exhaust piping?

hehehe good to know i was able to answer your question. BTW here are some pics of my sr20 if ya want any ideas. I actually got the top mount idea from Alex and Adrian from Vildini Motorsports, they did a great job on my swap.

"Sr20DET compression should be around 170psi (highest) and 130ish/140ish as long as each cylinder is within 5% of each other". i found this on a nissan forum, here is the link. http://www.nissanforums.com/forced-induction-nitrous-oxide/4575-normal-compression-sr20det.html hope this helps

You can keep your stock gas pedal. What you will need to get is a throttle cable from a 240sx(DOHC) and use that on the sr20 and just modify a bracket for the pedal. The fuel lines should be ok unless they are bent or kinked and the walbro 225 is good enough to run the sr.

Just to give you heads up, im doing an sr2det swap in my z but its the same stuff you will need for your ka24det. - custom cross member (welds onto the frail rails and sits further back) - Drive shaft cut and shortened - wiring, piping, ect.( stuff to get it running) if i find a good pic. of the cross member ill post it, you can contact Alex or Adrian from Vildini motorsports http://vildinimotorsport.com/ they can make the cross member for you and you can just weld it in. if your going to do a ka-t swap ya might like to do a top mount intercooler like how im doing mines, since there is so much more space in the engine bay and less ic piping= better throttle response. as far as price wise goes, it depend on what you want to get done, I'm at $6k for all the engine work and fabrication just to give an idea of how much it would cost.

i cant find the exact one i got but here is another one ou can use, just make sure the dimensions will fit your car. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-INTERCOOLER-24x11x3-Mazda-RX7-V-Mount-FMIC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ013QQitemZ230251862904QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW