JustinOlson

These should hook well on the Z. They work OK on this vette: http://www.youtube.com/user/jgaddis68#p/u/3/gLBlbG873G8

Rear wheels are on the way. 18X12's with 345/35-18 Mickey Thompson drag radials! These are C6 Z06 replicas as I needed to keep it on a budget. The fronts will be 18X10.5 with 295/30-18's. No CCW's for a while, but eventually I'd like a set. The wheels and tires that are on this car are the same that I will be running:

I have a set of 4 17X9.5 with 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE-01R's. Brand new. Just mounted and rolled around in the shop. I'd like $1100 + shipping for them.

I've been looking at this, but the seat runs into the wheels well. I actually have to redo the wheel wells to make them taller for clearance of the 27.5" tall street tires I plan on running. More on this soon. The drivers side box tubing has been welded in. Now I need to support the remaining structure so that I can cut out the passenger side frame rail for this same modification.

Do a Audi Inline 5 Turbo conversion! Those are great swaps that bolt right upto the transaxle. Dyno Video of one: Swap: http://www.944-20v.nl/

I thought you had driven your supra with this motor? Is it less streetable now?

This shows the modified shifter mount that I'm going to use. I think I can move the shifter head about an inch further then is shown in these pictures.

Not much progress. Just checking clearances to make sure the floor bars will be low enough to clear the transmission and motor. Its a tight fit. I also found out there are shelf options to move the shifter forward several inches. This along with a forward sweeping shifter should fix all those issues.

Solidworks!

Very cool! I like the extensions of the quarter windows! Makes the 2+2 look way better!

This is the rear tire I'm looking at running: 315/45-16 MT Radial http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadialII Also there is the Kuhmo XS 265/45-16: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Kumho&model=Ecsta+XS&tirePageLocQty=

I can always increase the Yaw Inertia from where I'm going to start. Its tought to go the other direction.

This should improve traction in most cases. This may be troublesome if I take the car to the drag strip as I'll have to deal with picking up the front end. On the street and road coarse that should be less of an issue. This will reduce the PMOI, helping the car rotate more easily. There should be a slight weight savings due to shorter exhaust, fuel lines, drive shaft. An added benefit is plenty of room to vent the radiator and intercooler air out the hood and over the car. The S366 will likely stick up out of the cowl and hood. I'm hoping I can keep the down pipe, and inlet tube under the sheet metal.

I'm going to retain both the current intake manifold and exhaust manifold. My Borg Warner S366 should be arriving shortly. I will be test fitting the turbo prior to sending the head of for porting. There will be removable access panels in the interior to work on the back side of the engine without pulling it. The down pipe will come down and go down the middle of the trans tunnel right above the transmission. I will need to insulate it with exhaust wrap to keep the interior temps reasonable. I'll go over to the shop tomorrow after school to get some additional pictures. Regards, Justin

How soon until you make some videos of it?

The driveshaft looks like it will be about 6"-10" long total length. More pictures this evening.

I'll get an interior shot tomorrow. The shifter isn't too bad. Just going to start with a S shape shifter handle. from there I may end up revising the linkage on this to bring the shifter forward.

Updated Engine Position:

That is the question of the week for me. To cut the firewall out or not. Well I'm off to buy 4 more jack stands so I can cut the floor all the way out. From there I'll eye ball this idea and make a decision. Update later today!

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/730443-newbie-ls1-but-not-your-typical-car.html

Here is a current picture of the engine pushed all the way back against the firewall. I'm proposing moving the engine back 12"-14" from this position.

I'm going back and forth with this idea now that I'm getting close to choosing the engines final position. Besides the work, what are the negative consequences to moving the bell housing back 2" ahead of the front of the door. I figure I will be able to get enough room for a pedal assembly for the brakes. I will be able to sort out the shifter position on my T10 based transmission since it has a linkage based shifter. The only trouble I have right now is figuring out the intake manifold clearance to the strut tower. I'm sure I can weld in a 45 degree bend in prethrottle to get me the clearance I need. Am I going to kill the balance of the car moving the engine back?

more pictures please!!!!!

Here is how this manifold fits so far in my mock up: