JustinOlson

A little motivation for those that don't know the potential of the EG33. Here is a built one. Specs: 12:1 Compression JE pistons 0.5mm oversize valves Port Heads (mostly on exhaust side to balance flow between dog leg and straight ports) Web Welded Cams. 244 duration @ 0.050" lift. Total Lift 0.460" Long tube headers. 319hp / 274 torque on pump gas

Here's the build thread for the blue Z31: http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=6734.0

Here is the Bellhousing/Flywheel/Starter setup I'm using for my EG33 conversion. Can't say 100% that it will work out, but I have high hopes. It is a Tilton COT Chevy R07 package. The nice thing with this is the 8 bolt flywheel should make the adapter plate doable to the subaru 8 bolt crank pattern. Also, if I'm unsuccessful with my EG33 adaptation, I can use this setup on a LSx engine simple by sourcing a new flywheel.

Check out these 5 pictures. A guy with a buggy shortened his oil pan on a EG33. Interesting idea I thought. I would have liked to add wings to the pan to add the capacity lost by making it shorter.

I'm playing around with mating my EG33 to a T10 style transmission with a GM bellhousing. On my setup I'm going to a reserse mount starter, 110 tooth flywheel and Tilton 2 plate clutch. Once those parts arrive I can figure out the crankshaft adapter and bell housing adapter. It is all penciling out well on the initial design intent. Hopefully I will have the crankshaft adapter and bellhousing adapter on order before christmas. J

Depends on the center line radius of the die set he is using. It is unclear from 74_5.0L_Z's drawing as two what the centerline radius is. It looks like he is calling out a 7.0" inside radius, which would turn into a 7.8125" centerline radius on 1.625" material. That doesn't add up with the rest of the dimensions provided. When I draft it up using the other dimensions for the relations, it figures out to 7.0" CLR. Anyways, you shoudl be able to take the given dimensions and use them for 1.75" material without changing anything since it is given in exterior dimensions that make tube diameter irrelevant. The 1.75" tubing will just intrude into the passenger compartment more then the 1.625" tubing. J

I have 17x9.5 RBR's front and rear with 245/40-17's. As is, I need a 2" spacer front and rear to fill out my 280YZ flares.

Here's a picture comparison of my lower radiator support compared to his. Mine: His:

If it still has factory frame rails they might be an 1-2" off the ground a static height. From one of the pictures it looks like he raised the radiator support up front. Cool car! Now just make a Z that is this low driveable

Been playing more in cad. I wish building the cage was this easy :) Weighs 185 lbs as seen here. We'll see where this actually goes. I need to start modeling the transmission and engine and model them roughly so that I can nail down more dimensions. The red tubes are 1.625 X 0.083 4130, and the green tubes are 1.25 X 0.065 4130. I ordered a set of C5 Corvette uprights today. They will be a good starting point for my front suspension. I will be doing 4130 tube wishbones that are longer then stock corvette parts. The 2JZ will be a structural part of my chassis. up front. I will triangulate the front as much as possible while still retaining the ability to pull the motor and transmission. I received the last part of the rear drive train yesterday. Now I have a complete R230 rear with axles and hubs. I'm hoping I can come up with a good steel upright for the rear so that I can use this R230 with stock axles. if not, I will run the C5 rear uprights with custom axles.

Thanks John! I've become very interested in a 3 or 4 link with a with a watt linkage to control lateral axle position. Here's a really good picture of a 3 link with watts lateral linkage: Justin

The cage above weighs 96 lbs when I modeled it in solidworks. The idea is to carry most all of the loads up the backbone (trans tunnel). I will be doing a R230 rear differential with this chassis project. At this point I'm kind of braking this project into two. Once will be going forward with building up a tube chassis as pictured in my previous post. A S30 body will drop over the top of this tube chassis. The back of the engine will be mounted so that it will just fit under the dash. Imagine if you drew a line from the bottom right corner of the windshield to the bottom left corner of the windshield. This is where I will be mounting my midplate. The tube chassis car will be designed around a very extreme road race setup. I will be running double wishbone suspension front and rear. I will source a 240z-280z shell that I can completely gut. I will mount the YZ body work on this. I want to focus on building the chassis with dimensions off of my 280z, and then buy the body when I'm ready. My 280z will stay a L28 powered street car for now. I will be installing the coilovers, brakes, and just getting it running at this point. It will have ZG flares, msa headlight covers, msa type 3. Just a all around good looking Z. I may do an LS1 swap later down the road, or the 2JZ engine I have a bunch of parts for. For now the key will be getting the car back on the road. No cage, nothing crazy. Just getting a floor back in it, getting the seats mounted, ect ect ect. Justin

So I've been wondering how to go about designing a efficient solid rear axle linkage that would work well for both drag racing and road racing. has anyone here gone down this path? It seems that there have been some very effective road race cars with solid rear axles. I'm just not finding a ton of information just yet on what linkage design would work well for both road & drag racing. Any helps would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Justin

Red = 1.625" X 0.083" Green = 1.25" X 0.065"

I will be running the 245/40-17's (24.7") and the FA 23" tall slicks. I want a bit of extra range of travel in the strut so that I can adjust for each tire when its on the car. I plan on running external droop limiters, because it just seems too difficult to droop limit with the struts without sectioning them several times.

Since the extended length of each insert is: R36-5022 18.89" +0.85" spacer = 19.74" P30-0032 19.74" Compressed Length: R36-5022 Factory 14.96" +0.85" spacer = 15.81" R36-5022 Cut Bumpstop 13.39" +0.85" spacer = 14.24" P30-0032 13.98" I have cut the bumpstops on my struts to give a total travel of 5.5". If I wanted to match the P30-0032 insert in its full compressed length I would use a 0.59" spacer under the strut. I really need to get the camber plates mounted up, and get the car at static ride height so I can figure out the exact length I'm going to need to section these struts. Justin

I've been doing some measuring with the R36-5022 insert. To get in the same travel range as the P30-0032 bilstein, I will need to section the front insert to fit with a 0.85" spacer underneath it. Since the body length is so much shorter at 10.47", this means I need to section the strut to fit a insert body length of 11.32". That takes off about 3.25" out of the strut!. I'm going to trip check my measurements before I do this. Also, Im' going to be ordering the Bilstein 36mm gland nuts shortly.

What is the stock length of the front LCA's?

A 17X10 -4 has the following: 5.34" back spacing 5.56" front spacing A 17X9.5 -19 has the following: 4.50" back spacing 6.00" front spacing A 17X9.0 -13 has the following: 4.49" back spacing 5.51" front spacing So the 9" would fit just like the above picture. The 9.5" would stick out an additional half inch.

I was refering to moving the inner mount forward while keeping the LCA perpendicular to the centerline of the car. This would move the whole strut assembly forward too. How do you calculate the percentage ackerman? I can figure out the dynamic toe change in cad, but I don't know what people are refering to regarding the percentage ackerman. Justin

I think you are correct. a custom x member that moves the LCA inner mounts forward and inch, while leaving the steering rack in its factory position front to back would help a lot. It would also increase the wheelbase a little so you'd have to watch out for tire interference.

Yeah, I'm planning on going to a custom cross member. Also, I am going to do a raised steering rack with rod ends. I will be using high offset spacers on the top side of the steering knuckle. I'm moving the motor back behind the cross member and steering rack. Its a lot of little changes that I hope add up to something decent

There is plenty of ackerman to be had in a front mounted rack layout. You just need to move the steering rack back. I can model it up for you in CAD later today. Justin

Thank you for the response John. I do realize that there is no "best" I'm trying to get to a good middle ground that I can fine tune from. Anyone have a recommendation for a good camber + caster plate? It seems to me that it would be nice to have the caster adjustment up top so that I'm not moving the wheel in the wheel well. Too many other variables change IMO when you just change the length of the TC Rod. Justin

From what I can figure, a configuration as shown would have bump induced toe out. Am I correct on this? Shown is a Chrysler 300M steering arrangement. My 91 audi 200 has a similar setup. Regards, Justin