JustinOlson

I found the valving manuals from bilstein, but they don't really touch on this: http://www.bilstein.com/dl.php

I have a set of 36mm Bilstein inserts that I would like to have re-valved for my race 280z. For the linear only 30mm piston bilstein inserts (P30-0032-HO) it is recommended to have them valved 300/100 for linear valving. That is Bilstein's notation for 3000N/1000N at 0.52m/s. Since I have stepped up to the larger diameter Bilstein insert, I have the option of going to digressive valving. How does a linear valving of 300/100 correlate to a digressive valving. My track width tire to tire will be ~71" I have YZ fenders front and rear. My spring rates are 375 front 350 rear. My weight with driver should be around 2400-2500lbs. Regards, Justin

I found this kit that's interesting me: http://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit

I need a set of Q45 rear hubs for my R230 swap in my Z. Anyone have a line on a set?

Thank you for the input. I've been reading more about ackerman here: http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html Justin

Is toe in gain during steering input a bad thing?

After messing with the model more, I'm finding a lot of change in toe angle with steering input with the above model. I need to keep the steering rack in line with the steering pickup points on the struts. Also, I'm finding there is less toe variation if you shorten the length of the steering arm on the strut. This also has the added benefit of quickening the steering ratio.

Another question I have regarding these new LCA's and ball joints. Do the LCA's need to be perpendicular to the centerline of the car? I have been thinking of moving the subframe forward, with the LCA and steering rack moving ahead. I would keep the wheel location in their stock position. Here's a rough diagram looking from below.

E85 in general won't give you much issue on a modern car's fuel system besides maxing out its capacity. E85 is the best thing to happen to hot rods on the street in a long time IMO. Turbocharged engines really shine on it

This is at a rocker height of 2.75" front, 3.5" rear.

Aggressive Drop Issues That have come up so far: I wanted to highlight the issues I've run into thus far with lowering the 280z to its current static ride height. The idea is to work around all of these issues so that I can retain 2" of bump travel from the ride height seen in the previous post.

That is great idea Cary! I can't believe the pricing on the afco suspension parts: http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=ct_Suspension Justin

Here's Mulls thread regarding swaping in the S14 rear suspension: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106731&page=12 Found the following information on this site:http://www.data4car.com/ S30 Rear Track Width: 53.0" S13 Rear Track Width: 57.5" S14 Rear Track Width: 57.9" Z32 Rear Track Width: 60.4" Regards, Justin

Who has replaced their front ball joints with rod ends? What size rod end did you go with? I'd like to go to this route when building new front LCA's, but am worried about the range of motion of the ball joint. I was thinking that I might have to make a angled wedge adapter that bolts to the bottom of the strut so that I would place the ball joint in the middle of its range of articulation. The only person that I could find that had pictures of this was Monzter. It looks like he made a plate with a stud that bolts to the bottom of the strut. Also, it looks like he got around the range of motion issue by putting a bend in his arm. Anyone else done something similar to Monzters? Regards, Justin

I wanted to highlight the issues I've run into thus far with lowering the 280z to its current static ride height. The idea is to work around all of these issues so that I can retain 2" of bump travel from the ride height seen in the previous post.

I'm finally understanding why you had to do the tube frame front, and new fender liners in the rear. I've got my 280z down to ~45". The front tires are resting on the inner frame rails. I'm going to lower the rear ~0.75" more. These Z's do look great lowered this much. Its going to be a lot of work to get the suspension and chassis setup correctly at this ride height though!! http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/Justin_Olson/DSC01454.jpg http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/Justin_Olson/DSC01461.jpg Regards, Justin

Jay, What tires are you going to be running while on the track? I think that will have a great deal of influence on what spring rates work well for your car. Also out of curiosity, what is the total height of your car from the ground to the top of the roof. Just trying to get an idea of the proportions your car has. Justin

My RBR's may be coming off because they just aren't wide enough for these YZ flares... I might be going to 5 lug and double A arm suspension front and rear... I thought this picture was cool of the RBR's so I wanted to post it here:

I wasn't making much progress studying so I decided to go to the shop for a bit. This is at a rocker height of 2.75" front, 3.5" rear. The yz fenders are going to be cut at the front so I can raise the MSA T3 flush with the bottom of the hood. Obviously I'm going to need wheel spacers with the current layout. Subframe is going to have to move up 2-3" to. Engine is moving back and up as well. New transmission tunnel. Differential is being raised. Whole new floorpan pretty much. Gotta do it though. I love the look that I will have in the end.

So do you still have your two methanol injectors as well? So it would seem that you have 4 drivers left over for your 6 E85 injectors, and 2 methanol injectors. You can definitely splice 1 ecu output into 2-3 injector driver inputs. The driver box would deliver the required power to each injector. The input side of the driver box does not pull any real amperage. This is how John Reed did the AEM on RREV Motorsports methanol supra. Justin

I've got one side of the car near my goal ride height. Right now I'm just trying to get the stance correct, then figure out the proper chassis mounts for the suspension. In the back I'm going to have to cut out the fender wells completely, as at full bump, the tires would rub on the inner fender wells. I'm contemplating doing a custom upright in the rear to incorporate the 300zxTT hub. This would allow me to run the factory 300zxTT axles and diff. I currently have these parts, so that is the direction I'm leaning. I've been looking at doing a 5 lug to 4 lug adapter in the rear so that I can retain these rota RB's. All of the off the shelf adapters like this are fairly clumsy. I might just go to 15X10 5 lug rear drag wheels and run the RB's up front on the street. I may also sell the rota's with tires, and go to a 5 lug wheel front and rear. This mocking up is fun, but I can't wait to have my tools back to get to welding and building. Gosh I'm excited. I've been making a lot of progress lately because I am now driving again. I was cycling daily for the last couple years, and that had made it tough on me getting much done on the datsun when it wasn't located at my house. Now that I can get to my workshop in a 15 minute drive, I'm really there so much more often. Beyond the datsun, I'm taking two classes at Portland state. I'm also working 30-40 hrs a week at my design job. Life is busy, and constantly changing for me. My father is moving to Tuscon. My grandfather and I are batching it since grandma has gone into a home. I have baby turkeys and chickens with my girlfriend. All of these changes all at once. Its overwhelming at times, but that's life I guess. I'm trying to make the best of what I have right now. No more real updates on the car for a few days. I have midterms this week, and need to really focus on school. After that is over, I'll be back on the datsun working away. I get my welder back on the 8th, so I need to settle on a chassis design by then. I'll try and model up the suspension parts, rough out the dimensions of the engine/transmission. Lots to do before I do any really building. I'm excited to be working on this project. I just need to make sure I'm not going in more directions then I can handle all at once. Justin

Anyone else notice the discrepency in the torque printed and the actual chart? Maybe the smoothing factor messed that up, but it still prints the peak spike in torque?

Found a small turbo today for $370 that is interchangable with my S480 turbo. I'm going to pick this up and run it first. I will move upto the S480 after this, or I may run them in series to get killer midrange power, and keep the revs low. Seems like a better method then spending a bunch of money re engineering an engine to turn higher RPMs then it wants to. The new turbo is a S464 which is non extended tip. Supports 650hp. Compounding them should be able to yield 1000lb ft I think. Just need enough octane to get there. Here are the specs on the turbo: High-flow S400 model, with compressor flow over 64 lb/min. Will service 600+HP. Also commonly known as an S464 and S364. Wheel Dimensions: Compressor: 63.5 mm inducer, 91.4mm exducer. Turbine: 83.5mm inducer, 74mm exducer. Cast in Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation. Housing A/R: Compressor .63, with 5.0" hose-type inlet, and v-band-type discharge. Turbine: 1.10, with 'divided' volute, featuring 'T6-style' turbine inlet flange (4.438"x2.75"), and quick-release v-band discharge flange. Cast in ductile iron.

Nice work! What rpm range is that dyno run? Just trying to equate the mph to rpm.