JustinOlson

Attached are the latest pictures of the motor mock up that I did yesterday. I am trying to get the motor position sorted out so that I can tackle of the chassis modifications that are going to be required.

My PNT intake manifold came in today. I'm very impressed by the build quality. The only negative I see is the plenum casting is a bit wavy so the polished finish doesn't look the greatest. I will likely have it powder coated or paint it with wrinkle finish. The runners have a nice tapered shape just like the factory veilside intake. The throttle body flange is very nicely machined. There is no casting flash or debris that I can find that would need to be cleaned up. All flanges are flat with good surface finish for gasket sealing. Justin

I'm just pulling the sintered discs out and one of the intermediate pressure plates. Justin

If you've looked at my blog I'm actually headed in this direction I'm putting together a stock block 2JZ w/ a S366 borg warner turbo. Going to try for 750whp on E85. So first round: Stock Block 2JZ w/ 750whp Gforce Dog Box Cage R200 with OBX diff 280z struts with coilovers Second round I may do double wishbone suspension with C5 uprights front and rear. Built motor. R230. Borg Warner S480 Turbo. Dog Box. ~1200whp. /J

I ended up buying a very similar manifold that has a cast plenum with internal velocity stacks. It makes very good power on Jason @ Big Daddy's S14: Link to his dyno thread: http://e85forum.com/about1086.html

Can you post some finalized engine bay pictures?

What didn't fit on your setup? Did you have throttle body clearance trouble?

Looks really good! How do you like that KU Intake Manifold?

I've become really interested in picking up a E39 528i for a 2JZ swap. There are a few of these already, and with the falling price of the E39's, I imagine this will become much more popular. http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/09/15/gallery-gt-gt-two-supra-hearted-bimmers-from-jersey.aspx

More info here: http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=35907&st=0

Its not that you can't go very quick and fast on a R230. This has been proven by the BL 2JZ powered S14. It has been 8.1 @ 171: http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j158/ainoble/IFO%20Baytown/?action=view&current=Duys240.flv This car utilizes a Power Glide and a R230. They can definitely take a lot of power. I was just curious if there is anything reasonably priced that I would rather use then the R230. This is not a dedicated drag car. It will make ~1150whp when all is done. That will be through a clutch, so I'm going to have to ramp in boost off the line. Shifts will be interesting to say the least with Clutchless full throttle shifts. When not in "drag trim", it will be sporting 16" slicks for road racing. I will also run around with street tires and a 66mm turbo for having fun.

There is a big difference between a power glide on slicks compared to a manual on radials. Shock loading is FAR different between the two. I was just looking and thinking about a better option before I dive too far into this build. At this point I'm leaning towards using M&H slicks instead of the MT Radials. This should save me a lot in terms of tire shake and broken parts. Besides that, I'm going to look at converting my triple plate clutch into a dual disc unit with more slip-able discs. Ford 9" IRS diffs are interesting me right now: http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/1_irs_centers.html http://www.currieenterprises.com/CEStore/categoriesre.aspx?id=943 http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0810or_ford_9_inch_axle_nine_inch_nailed_part_i/photo_16.html http://www.cwiinc.com/9inchsuspension.htm

Jon, Do you know anything about the Viper IRS diff? Are they Dana 44's? These seem to be pretty strong as Sal's TTViper has gone 7.5's with it on radials. He does run a spool in his diff.

I'm building a tube chassis Datsun 280z with a 2JZ and a Gforce Dog Box. It will have C5 vette hubs/uprights. I currently have a Nissan R230 differential (9.06" ring gear), but people have had issues breaking input and output shafts on these. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566104 With the dog box and drag radials I'm worried I will break the rear diff. I don't want to buy custom axles for the R230 to the C5 hubs if I'm just going to be breaking the diff all the time. What would you guys recommend for a very strong IRS rear diff? -J

18x12.5 HERE: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2978513

My background on my work computer:

This one is great too

One of my favorites:

Not a rotisserie, but this is what I'm working on for mine. 2"X2" tubing for the rockers. The cage will tie into this: http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/Justin_Olson/280z%20Cage/24dec09-015.jpg http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/Justin_Olson/280z%20Cage/24dec09-018.jpg

How much boost are you running so far? Your tires don't look like they are going to be happy with the new power! Do you have plans to go wider in the rear?

Here is an updated picture of the engine bay. Its pretty cleaned up. I need to remove some misc brackets completely, but so far so good. Here is my idea for the intercooler location: Yesterday I bought a little $12 propane torch to melt the remaining lead out of the A pillars so I can completely shave the drip rails. I had a weird taste in my mouth the whole rest of the evening after this: I'll be back working on the car this afternoon after I get my work projects finished.

Not looking good!

How to ruin a datsun with a die grinder:

Did you still own the BlueOvalZ or did you sell it to pursue your manta project?

Here are 17X9.5's front and rear with 245/40-17's. I don't think you are going to be able to flare the fenders to work with these wheels unless you have a pretty high ride height with stiff suspension.