JustinOlson

Wow! that looks great! Justin

Can you bolt up a R154 to the 1UZFE? I'd love to see your 1UZ swap. I'm very interested in this motor for later developments. a 4.5L would make great power and sound great. Have you seen this car? It has a 800hp 1UZ in it:

Just a word of warning, this roller doesn't work well on tubing. Justin

Yeah, I've been eyeing this eastwood bead roller: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMB3x6bHffg I'm not sure if I will be buying it in time. I am going to add the replacement frame rail (I think 1 X 3 is more common) and some 1 X 2 seat brackets. That should make things plenty strong I would think. Justin

The R230 I just received in a cardboard box weighed 120lbs. Without the box I would guess it weighed 110-115 on its own. It is hard to move around!

I found this good PDF: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Should help me diagnosis this damn thing... Justin

So my 280z runs really bad when it is cold. I can get in it and give it full throttle and it wont rev over 3000rpm. If I try to drive it it bucks and hardly will rev over 2000rpm. It sounds like it is missing on a few cylinders, but I haven't checked the spark. Anyhow, if I let it warm up for 5-10 minutes, it runs great. Revs smooth to 6000rpm and makes good power. I'm really confused on this one. Any ideas? Also the temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge work in the cabin. Do these use the same sensors that the ECU uses for cold start? Thanks Justin

I was curious how unsafe I am driving around with out the rear bumper on my 280z? The fuel tank is right behind the sheetmetal and I'm just concerned about being rearended. Is this really unsafe as is? Heres the back of the car. Justin

What style of strut did you order and for what car/application?

I honestly don't want to do 16gauge. I think that is going to be to thick. I'm thinking 18ga since I won't have any ribs in the sheetmetal (it will all be flat and in a single place). Justin

Mmm, how thick is the plate? I figured you could punch all the features in the flat and bend it up. Anyway, If I had a friend with a CNC I could use for cheap I would have done the same as you. Justin

I'm going to be replacing the floor boards in my Datsun 280z. I found a picture showing basically what I'm planning on doing. I was hoping for some input from you guys on what gauge sheet metal to use. I'm going to have a local sheet metal shop make the part in all one piece to save me time and hassle. I was planning on using 1" x 2" x .083" square tubing for the frame rail replacement. Would anyone be interested in the sheetmetal portion to replace the floor pans if I had a run of them produced. I'm going to get price quotes from the sheet metal shop once I have the drawings finished for these parts. Regards, Justin

Wait you CNC'd the 4130 brace? Why not just have a sheet metal place bend it up for you? Justin

How is the ride with those? That seems like a really cheap coilover setup for a street car. Justin

I used to go wheelin out here a lot. Kinda miss it. Lots of fun and good conversations with people out on the trails. Its a lot less stressful then racing cars for me. Justin

Thats is a pretty sweet idea. I'm going to have to talk to them about this. Regards, Justin

So a plan might be Techno Toy or AZC camber plate 1" back in the strut tower. Along with new lower control arms? I'll have to think about this one some more. I might just do a Z32TT rear suspension centered in the rear wheel wells. This will get me my R230 diff and axles, along with centering in the wheel well. Due to the greater track width I'd be needing some higher offset wheels and some fender flares... Options Options Justin

The pan is $635. I'm trying to justify going this route. I've always wanted a drysumped oiling system. Might as well. Another thing to save for. Piece by Piece Justin

What would be required to move the rear wheels back in the wheel well and center them? I'm looking at running a 28" tall drag radial with the factory IRS. I need more clearance around the dog leg. Instead of cutting the factory sheet metal, I would like to move the rear wheels to the center of their wheel well. Would I just need a set of custom lower control arms and sufficiently long half shafts. I'm looking at maybe moving them back by 1". Regards, Justin

I'm looking at going this route on my 2JZ swap. I want to do a mechanical fuel pump so that I'm able to flow the volume I'm looking for on Ethanol. Also, figured it would be a nice time to do a dry sump setup. Most of these parts except the pump bracket are off the shelf parts: Errol at TPS has some good pictures of this setup on his Black Drag Car... Peterson SBC dry sump pump and aeromotive hex drive fuel pump http://www.esnips.com/web/errolsBusinessFiles?docsPage=2#files Also found that Moroso does a dry sump oil pan for the 2JZ: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=mor-28001 http://www.moroso.com/photo_gallery.asp Regards, Justin

Damn good work. Could you talk more about the rear end swap? That seems like a nice way to do the Z32 diff swap that I'm looking at doing right now. BTW, does anyone know if you can put a R230TT diff and axles into a Z32 NA rear suspension? Regards, Justin

At this point I'm not too concerned with the ignition side of things. I'd just like to get the fueling dialed in better. Justin

Audis of the mid 80's to the early 90's will have a lot of electrical gremlins. I also had a lot of trouble with the power brakes and power steering on my 91 audi. Regards, Justin

Theres nothing wrong with them. They do what they were designed to do. I'll get it wired up and post back with results. Regards, Justin

My thinking is with our short wheelbase, a tubbed car may be harder to go really fast with due to this trouble. Without wheelie bars, I think you would have an easier time keeping the front end down with IRS. Maybe this is a blanket statement tho. Justin